Of all the Western Isles of Scotland, the Isle of Jura, though one of the most beautiful, remains one of the most mysterious and least well-known. Its spectacular mountains, visible from the Argyll mainland some 16 miles away, tower above a landscape so varied that in a day's walk you may see small woodland, forest and farm, deserted silver sand beaches, rock-strewn shoreline with raised beaches and caves to explore, heathland and hills rich in wildlife, and trout-filled lochs.

Jura, being almost thirty miles long and seven miles wide, is the third largest of the Islands of Argyll, yet it is still one of the few places in Britain around which you cannot completely drive. Only one road exists following the Southern and Eastern shoreline; the Western half of the island is trackless and, for its size, Jura is the wildest, emptiest, and least tourist-oriented of Britain's inhabited islands.

The population of the Isle of Jura is less than 250. A virtual absence of day visitors and a strictly limited quantity of accommodation for guests - there is only one hotel and the narrow road though suitable for cars is unsuitable for caravans - mean that Jura has preserved a peace and serenity far removed from the bustle of modern-day life.

Being separated from the mainland, the island is very much for those who seek remote island-quietness and adventure. For the British visitor, it has all the excitement of going abroad, of journeying to a far distant special place but with none of the drawbacks. The beaches are of the finest quality and are free of crowds; the climate is warmed by the Gulf Stream and supports fuchsia hedges and even several palm trees.

It is thought that the Island has been inhabited for about 7,000 years - a period spanning the Stone Age, Bronze Age, the Viking Settlements and Clan warfare. Several interesting features remind us of the past: there are the celebrated 'Standing Stones', some of which like Camus Stack are 12 feet high and 4 feet broad, and are reputed to have been erected before the Pyramids of Egypt. Other features include the remains of hill forts and two ruined castles - Claig Castle in the South West guarding the entrance to the Sound of Islay, and Aros Castle at Glengarisdale in the North, scene of battles between the Campbells of Jura and the Macleans. A crofters' settlement survives at Keils where a glimpse of the old Jura can be seen.

Historically, Jura has connections with St. Columba, whose uncle, St. Earnan, is buried in the graveyard of Kilearnadill. At Inverlussa there is the grave of Mary MacCrain, who lived for 128 years, and whose ancestor, Gillour MacCrain, who died in the 17th century, is reputed to have 'spent 180 Christmasses in his own home'.

Though the human population is small, the mild climate has favoured the development of a remarkably rich flora and fauna. In so varied a landscape most habitats are represented and the Botanist can find here several rare and very rare species.

The Naturalist has ample opportunity to observe Red Deer - the last census recorded over 5,000! It is interesting to note in passing that the very name of Jura may descend to us from Viking times. As long as 1,000 years ago the Island was known as Dy Oer - pronounced Joora and meaning Deer Island.

There are upwards of one hundred species of birds, with everything from Blackcock, Grouse and Snipe to the Golden Eagle inland, and practically every known variety of seabird on the shore, making it a haven for the Ornithologist and the casual bird watcher.

Small wild goats, supposedly feral descendants of those ship-wrecked from the Spanish Armada of 1588, abound on the uninhabited West Coast which they share with the Grey Seal. Inland the Rabbit is the commonest mammal, but the Hare, the Stoat and Otter may be glimpsed. There is reputed to be a pair of otters for every 3 miles of coastline.

The Isle of Jura welcomes both the skilled Naturalist and Botanist and the interested beginner equally. Indeed the Jura Hotel - the Island's only, and fortunately very comfortable, hotel - provides facilities and in some cases guides for many of the activities mentioned here, specifically to enable those Guests with little or no previous experience to sample and enjoy the pleasure of a day in the field. They need not feel diffident, for every expert was once a beginner and perhaps a lifetime's interest may be born here.

For the climber, the Paps of Jura, three conical quartzite mountains, dominate the landscape and offer several challenging climbs. For the novice too, if properly dressed and accompanied, there is a fairly easy walking route up all three of these mountains. A strenuous day's walking can, on a clear day, reward the walker with breathtaking views of many Hebridean Islands, and on a very clear day from the summit of Beinn-an-Oir (the Hill of Gold) one may discern the Isle of Man well over 50 miles away and the distant coasts of Ireland.

The Geologist and Geographer alike can trace in Jura classic examples of the effects of glaciation on lochs, hills and glens.

On the West Coast are found many caves and the notable raised beaches. These great stretches of boulders stranded at 30 feet and 100 feet above the present sea level, and caused by the uplift of land after the great weight of the Ice Sheets retreated, have contributed to the deduction of the principles of Isostasy - the rise and fall of landforms 'floating' on the surface of the Mantle.

Not only the land but the sea too has its fascination.

To the North is found the fearsome whirlpool of Corryvreckan occurring when very strong westerlies blow and at certain times of the tide. Currents flowing from the mainland collide with the opposing Ocean current setting into the narrow strait between the North Coast of Jura and the Island of Scarba, creating this natural phenomenon which is visible from the shore and was once described as a 'conflux so dreadful that it spurns all description. At the distance of 12 miles a most dreadful noise, as if all the infernal powers had been let loose, is heard ... and an eddy is formed which would swallow up the largest ship of the line.'

The Gulf of Corryvreckan is to this day officially classed by the Royal Navy as unnavigable, although at high tide the combat of the currents ceases and, as the old account put it, 'when they are asleep the smallest bark may pass with impunity.'

You can swim the Gulf of Corryvreckan as part of an open water swimming tour organized by Swimtrek (external link to SwimTrek Website).