Large Scale Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Scale and Gauge

The two most popular gauges for the garden are 16mm Scale and G scale, although these cover a somewhat bewildering range of options. The following few paragraphs will hopefully make things clearer.

16mm Scale (1:19)

16mm to the foot is the scale. On 32mm (O gauge) track this is 2 foot gauge such as that used on many Welsh narrow gauge lines. The Ffestiniog and Welsh Highland are good examples. However, there are a number of people running on 45mm (gauge 1) track and we are seeing many new lines started in this scale. There is not a huge support in ready to run terms, live steam locomotives from companies such as Roundhouse being a notable exception, although there is a vast range of parts for the home builder. Please see our own Bywater Models range, Cambrian and Tenmille amongst others.

G Scale (various scales)

G scale is not a pure scale and it is many things to many people although the 45mm track gauge is a constant. G scale was started by LGB in 1967 and used a scale of 1:22.5 to represent European metre gauge and this is still the most popular today. LGB went on to realise that there was a market for 3 foot gauge prototypes in America and the 45mm track that they were using was fairly close. LGB still make many items to 1:22.5 for America and they have been joined notably by Bachmann and USA Trains. There is a vat range of ready to run equipment in 1:22.3

However, over the past few years there has been a growing movement promoting 1:20.3 that is the exact scale for American 3 foot gauge. Commercial support has come from Bachmann and Accucraft although much still needs to be scratch built.

In America there has also been a demand for standard gauge prototypes. Aristocraft started supplying in 1:29, not an exact scale, but it looked OK with many 1:22.5 items. There has been massive growth in 1:29 with growing ranges by Aristocraft and USA Trains. Even LGB are making some items that are compatible.

Many of the items for G Scale and 16mm are similar in size and the great thing for most people in garden railways is an approach that allows them to appreciate trains that look right rather than a slavish approach to scale.

Can I run 00 outside?

The easy answer is yes….. but there is a serious "but". Running 00 is certainly not for the faint hearted. Track must be laid meticulously level, points will function poorly, wear and tear on mechanisms is considerable, wet weather stops running and lastly – track cleaning is significant. Rails must be cleaned and track vacuumed before each running session. "Leaves on the line" certainly stop 00 locos.

So, it is possible but maintenance is very significantly higher than G and 16mm. There are few successful lines out of doors. One that is the exception to the rule is the Daws Heath Garden Railway that is pictured below.

How do I get started?

Don’t think - do something! For G scale LGB make a number of starter sets with everything in the box at very competitive prices. In 16mm get some track such as Peco Setrack and maybe a Roundhouse basic loco. Lay it on the patio and run. You will learn more about garden railways by doing this than in any other way. Go and look at how others do it. Join the Association of 16mm Modellers and/or the G Scale Society and visit on open days. We can offer Garden Rail magazine (English), Garden Railways (American) and Telegram (LGBs house magazine) that are all good reads. We also have several books which are worth considering.

Steam or Electric?

There is no answer that we can give to which is better. The answer is what do you want? Both steam and electric are locomotives are available in a wide range of styles and price ranges.

How are steam engines fired?

The most common form of firing is gas. Butane gas burners are either in a tube that runs through the boiler (centre flue) or are underneath a boiler full of water (pot boiler). True internally fired locos with the burner in a firebox are rare in these scales.

Butane fired locos are clean and controllable and are highly recommended for the beginner.

Spirit firing (meths) used to be the most common. Locomotives are either pot boilers or internally fired. There are currently no meths fired locos produced commercially.

Coal firing. To many people this is the pinnacle of live steam operation. I would not recommend it for a beginner as running coal firing takes concentration, skill and practice. It is easy it run out of water or let the fire go out – and yes – I do speak from experience. Those that know me should note that that I am talking 16mm and not full size! This is something to look forward too as experience builds up.

Manual or Radio control?

There is no easy recommendation. Manual locomotives are better suited to flat continuous runs. Radio controlled locos can be driven up and down hills and limited shunting is possible. Some people feel that radio really lets them drive their locomotive. Others feel that hands on a manual regulator is the only way to do it.

How much power do I need?

This depends on what you want to run. An LGB set controller will run one single motor LGB loco happily and two (either two single motor or one two motor) LGB locos for short periods.

Aristocraft locomotives do not draw high currents, much the same as LGB. USA Trains locomotives require altogether bigger supplies – 2.5A being recommended for a single two motor diesel unit and 5A for a pair. It should be noted that serious performance is possible from big two motor locomotives. Trains of 30 bogie wagons are possible.

We can offer the LGB Jumbo that delivers 10A for people running really big trains or more commonly multiple trains on the same track. Another option for multiple trains is to split the track in to sections and provide separate supplies or boosters to each section.

What is multiple train control/digital command control/multi train system?

Systems such as LGBs Multi Train System (MTS) give users the ability to run independently controlled trains on the same track. A decoder (often known as a chip) is fitted to each locomotive. A constant voltage is supplied to the track and control is done by the decoder in response to commands sent down the track from the controller. This is theoretically a two-wire system, only one feed being required for the entire system, although in reality it is not quite that simple. The LGB MTS is a well thought out system, which can expand to 20 locomotives and the control of points and signals, radio controllers, and even up to computerised control. We can supply a CD from LGB that contains a video on the system that explains it in some detail.

MTS is not cheap but allows the user to run multiple trains on one track.

Can I Have radio control on electric lines?

Yes. Aristocraft make "Train Engineer" which in its simplest form has a receiver that goes between a power supply and the track. This could be your old controller. Trains are then driven using a radio handset with a range of up to 300 feet in ideal conditions. This gives control the same as a conventional controller but by radio. Train Engineer can be expanded with on board receivers which can either be track or battery powered. This can allow multiple trains on the same track but is expensive. MTS may well be a better option.

How do I lay the track?

Flexible track needs a better fixing than set track to hold it in position. Set track should stay where it has been put.

Track bed can be timber such as old scaffold boards, a ballast filled trench lined with a weed control lining, or concrete. On concrete track bed I put in wooden strips about every two feet to allow the track to be screwed down. I have found that a concrete base needs very little maintenance and disappears under the ballast. Ballast filled trenches "move" requiring the track to be re-levelled every few months by lifting and applying more ballast. Timber will rot over the years as happened on my original "Tanglefoot Southern" line. The closer timber is to the ground the quicker it seems to rot.

Two ground level lines loose laid on ballast. On the left electric using LGB and Aristocraft  track and on the right steam and battery only using hand built track.  

On the left a waist level line which has been well integrated into the garden. Built on timber but this has been replaced once in its now considerable length life. On the right is my own "Tanglefoot Mining and Lumber" in its early days showing the concrete structure on two levels. The ballast has been omitted for clarity (?!).  In the background the steam up bay can just be seen on the higher level. Just in front of the loco can be seen a wooden strip for fixing the track down.

How high should the track be?

This is another impossible question to answer. However, I can pass on some thoughts. Ground level lines look good and integrate well into the garden but will require more general maintenance to keep them clear. Waist level tracks tend to dominate the garden. Especially relevant to live steam is the thought that servicing locomotives at ground level is hard on the knees and back. This becomes more relevant as older age creeps up. My own "Tanglefoot Mining and Lumber" has two circuits, one at around two foot and one at around 14 inches. The steaming bay is at 2 foot level. I regularly run on track at waist level and enjoy this immensely, especially when the tracks are busy.

What is the minimum radius that locos will go around?

All LGB locomotives will run round R1 (two foot radius) curves. Most Aristo, Bachmann and USA trains will as well although there is a growing list of exceptions. Six axle diesels for example will not, nor will Bachmann’s Spectrum range. In live steam, in general, 4 wheeled locomotives will run around 2 foot radius. Some 6 wheeled locomotives will as well. The picture illustrates a Roundhouse Forney on a reverse 2 foot radius curve.

 Despite this I would recommend that garden lines are laid with at least 4 foot radius curves where possible as it will look much better and future proof the line. You never know when a friend will bring a really big loco round or a "must have" loco will be released.