France 2004

 

The intent in August 04 had been to head across the Thames Estuary and then make our way down Channel towards Dieppe or Fecamp, taking in Boulogne, St Valery sur Somme and St Valery ex Caux along the way.

 

However, the weather had other ideas and a stormy summer truncated our cruise somewhat.

 

For the first time I had taken both boys, Rowan (11) and Joshua (7), with me on a longer passage.  Our friend Ade joined us to complete the crew.

 

The previous week had seen a very blustery depression blow through from the tail end of an early hurricane over the Atlantic and conditions off the Suffolk & Essex coasts had been rough during the days I’d spent out singlehanding around the Backwaters & back. 

 

Late in the week F6/7 was still blowing but a calmer high was forecast over the weekend.  With a good weather window for the outward leg, we set off…

 

 

Friday 20 August

 

Set off singlehanded from the Deben at 1530 to pick up the crew on the Orwell, ready for an early start just before LW the next morning – not an option from the Deben!

 

Reaching the Bar on the early ebb brought 26kn S winds & some very steep overfalls – unpleasant but just manageable given the 3.5M least depth.  Rough motoring & sailing under jib brought me to Levington at 1945, just in time for a thunderstorm.  Not an auspicious start. 

 

Good meal, arrival of crew, optimistic forecast & decent sleep improved outlook considerably.

 

Distance: 25nm

Hours: 4:15

 

Saturday 21 August

 

Away at 0715 in a 10kn NW breeze, running goosewinged in the sunshine over breakfast to the S Cork by 0900.  Perfect.

 

Gybing round onto a broad reach in 14kn N took us to the Sunk Head Tower by 1030, before bowling along at over 7kn SOG towards Foulgers Gat.

 

Reached through the Gat carrying the chute by 1220, with the wind dropping slightly, then past Outer Tongue towards the N Foreland.

 

By 1530 the wind had dropped to 8kn SW and we were forced to motor-sail into what was becoming a foul tide and lumpy swell off Broadstairs, knocking the wind out of the sails.

 

Arrived in an unusually quiet Ramsgate marina at 1715.

 

Distance: 69nm

Hours: 10:00

 

Sunday 22 August

 

Motored out of Ramsgate at 0750 with a light and variable 4kn wind, reaching W Goodwin at 0900.  Wind had settled at 9kn SW so we hoisted sails and beat towards Dover with the tide.

 

With 15kn SW wind we reached our waypoint just S of the Dover port entrance by 1115 and altered course to 140˚ across the TSS for France.

 

1230 found us mid-TSS making a healthy 6+kn SOG and the tide taking down towards the ZC2 buoy, which we laid at 1335.

 

By 1500 the wind had turned light and variable again and the tide foul, so it was back to motoring to make the final miles into Boulogne, dodging the new 40kn fast ferry on the way.

 

At 1700 we were berthed in a half empty Boulogne marina, ready for a stroll and dinner in the old town.

 

Distance: 55nm

Hours: 9:10

 

Monday 23 August

 

Monday was time for a break so that the boys (all 4) could enjoy the magnificent Egyptian exhibition in the chateau, look around the town, explore the excellent Nausicaa sea life centre and play on the beach.

 

It was also time to give hard thought to the emerging forecasts of F7 SW winds as another low swept in from the Atlantic.

 

Given the absence of viable ports in onshore winds over F4 between Boulogne and Dieppe and the uncertainty over how long the conditions would last if we stayed put, we decided to head back up Channel just before the worst weather hit so we could shelter on the UK side and shorten the passage home again.

 

Tuesday 24 August

 

Reluctantly we left Boulogne with the fishing fleet at 0330 into pitch blackness and a 20kn SW wind creating very confused, breaking seas in the entrance.

 

By 0500 we were reaching fast under jib in around 22kn towards Cap Gris Nez and taking some uncomfortably large seas on the beam and occasionally into the cockpit!  Meanwhile Rowan & Josh were asleep in the forepeak – how I do not know as they must have airborne a good deal of the time.

 

At 0540 we steered across the TSS at 320˚, making over 8kn SOG under double reefed main & jib with a strong tide carrying us towards Dover.

 

By 0730 we had cleared the TSS and headed for the W Goodwin, then the S Brake in very heavy rain, before berthing in a still deserted but dry Ramsgate again by 1010 for breakfast.

 

Sure enough the wind built to a good F7 in the harbour later in the day before moderating overnight as we had hoped.

 

Distance: 48nm

Hours: 6:30

 

Wednesday 25 August

 

To our great relief the howling wind abated overnight and allowed us another convenient window to make the home run.

 

Leaving at 0700 in sunshine and a  light 5kn SW breeze we broad reached for the N Foreland with the wind gradually picking up to 15kn.

 

By 1015 we had reached Foulgers Gat (to find the buoys temporarily on board MS Mermaid!) before heading for the Sunk Head Tower in a W breeze, reaching it at 1200.

 

From Sunk Head we made for NE Gunfleet and then the Cork Sand Yacht Beacon.  Just E of the Cork Sands we saw a black cloud approaching off the land and dropped all the sails in time for a violent squall and rain deluge at 1330.  We motored very slowly into this with the tiller pilot taking the worst of the soaking whilst we sheltered under the sprayhood with a close eye on our position on the chart.

 

By 1400 we were past the Beacon and sailing again, though deliberately slowly to avoid arriving too early after LW at Woodbridge Haven, crossing the Deben Bar at 1500 with 2.2M least depth.

 

The regular showers and headwind eventually got the better of us and at 1600 we motored the last of the distance upriver to our mooring at Waldringfield, arriving at 1630 and heading home for a large dinner!

 

Distance: 65nm

Hours: 9:30

 

 

Overall, some very satisfying sailing and navigation in mixed conditions over the 5 days.

 

A great pity we did not make our intended destinations, but most importantly Josh achieved his first channel crossing, both boys gained experience and confidence, and we arrived home safe albeit early much to the relief of Sara and the family who had watched the forecasts with trepidation.

 

Morzen acquitted herself very well in the rough sea conditions and increased my confidence in her for future passages.  Maybe next year we’ll explore Normandy – or perhaps Holland

 

 

Total distance: 262

Total hours: 39:25