PARTICIPANTS

 

Mark Andrews & Regina Ribeiro (leaders), Graham & Joan Cooper, Jean Dille, John & Valerie Hole,  Dr Stan da Prato, Tony & Lydia Reed, Rod Smith and Tony Spooner.

 

16^th July 2006

After a long overnight flight with minor delays, the majority of our intrepid group arrived in Sao Paulo at around 6am. We boarded our internal flight to Belo Horizonte, and were met by our final two comrades, then waited.

 

Fog, a typically British phenomena, had shrouded Sao Paulo, wreaking havoc with Brazilian internal flight schedules. We eventually arrived to be met by a smiling Regina Ribeiro and our driver for the next week, Alexandro. We boarded our bus and set off for our long drive to Sao Roque de Minas on the foothills of Serra de Canastra National Park. Stopping for lunch at a roadside Churruscaria introduced many people to their first taste of Brazilian cuisine, a splendid buffet offering salads, vegetables and a range of their finest cooked meats all washed down with a variety of soft drinks and for some, the local beer. Despite the improvement to the roads close to Sao Roque our initial delays meant that we still arrived a little late. With everybody pretty tired, we checked into our rooms and thanks to Regina and Bruno, the owner, managed to get an excellent selection of pizzas delivered, rapidly consumed with beer in the garden shortly afterwards.

 

17^th July

The insomniacs among the group were up at first light and enjoying a pre-breakfast birding session in the grounds of the pousada. Our first hummingbird, a White-vented Violetear, was a welcome bonus as at times it can be tricky to get a decent view. A noisy pair of White-eyed Parakeets hotly pursued by a number of other species quickly whetted our appetites for the forthcoming day. Sadly for one our group, sitting next to someone coughing and spluttering on the flight from Madrid was going to be his, and over the next two weeks other member’s, biggest test. Surviving long days whilst feeling extremely unwell, tests the best of us, even more so when you are supposed to be on holiday. After some brief birding out in front of the pousada, we boarded the bus and headed off, up a rather testing road to the park entrance high above us. Today we had three main targets, Giant Anteater, Pampas Deer and Maned Wolf. Anteaters are funny creatures. Rather like us, they don’t like cold starts and often will not move and are therefore not visible until the sun is relatively high. After a brief stop at the source of the Rio Sao Francisco to scan for wolves amongst the nearby rocky outcrops, a check of the sandy track for signs of spores and an unsuccessful attempt to interest a Brasilia Tapaculo, we headed off to an area known as the ‘coral’. Scanning from the dry stone-walls of this abandoned building works, we found many birds including the excellent Firewood Gatherer and a plethora of rather drably marked seed-eaters. In the far distance a potential dark speck was initially dismissed as a Giant Anteater, until it vanished, it was time to move!  Having arrived at where I thought it had disappeared gave no indication on where it might have gone. As we moved across the grassland scanning the valley below, a shout from Regina behind us alerted everyone to an animal moving quickly, high up on the ridge ahead.

 

Although everyone saw it, it was not the best of views and we were determined to find another, much closer individual. It was not long before this became reality as we spotted one, a huge adult roaming short grass fairly close to the road. The wind was working with us and so we tentatively set of in pursuit of this bizarre creature. Approaching to within forty metres, we had great views and a good photographic opportunity as the animal walked towards us. Sadly something, a noise, sixth sense but certainly not smell alerted the animal to our presence and it turned tail and ran off in the opposite direction. The noise may have been after we inadvertently stood too close to a previously unseen Red-winged Tinamou. “Onward and upward” as they say. Across the park, toward the top of Casca D’anta we diligently scanned for areas of new grass for the desired Pampas Deer and the ridges for a late hunting Wolf. Despite covering a rather large area, this was going to continue as a theme for the rest of the day.  Lunch, a picnic, was consumed in the splendid surroundings of the river as it disappears over the edge, falling hundreds of feet into the valley below. This area has in the past produced the extremely rare Brazilian Merganser, but today although still relatively quiet in terms of visitors was just too noisy to be considered a possibility. There were some good birds of course, the group’s first Crested Black Tyrants, a trio of bathing Sharp-tailed Tyrant, a vivid Blue Dacnis, Cinnamon Tanager and several hummingbirds entertained those who wished to ‘eat on the hoof’. The afternoon was spent in similar fashion, driving, stopping, scanning but to no avail in terms of wolf and deer. We were however spectacularly successful at finding Giant Anteaters. At one stage, from a viewpoint on high ground, we could see six on various grassy slopes around us. We saw at least thirteen individuals, a remarkable score though sadly the last, a fairly young animal seemed to be carrying an injury to one of its forelimbs. Some of us approached down to a few metres, decided there was a problem and got Regina to inform a passing researcher of the animal’s predicament, it was trying to sleep in the road!  Fortunately, the animal had moved by the time the research team arrived and we can only hope it made a speedy recovery. We lingered in an area known to be good for wolves but again drew a blank. This year the area was incredibly dry and with a lack of signs of small mammals you wonder how this larger mammal survives.  We made it back to the pousada after dark, but with time to shower before visiting the Malibu restaurant in Sao Roque for another excellent evening meal.

 

18^th July

Following our success rate with Giant Anteater the previous day, today we decided to head down to the base of the waterfall and its adjacent riverine forest. Once again we were off after an early breakfast, our initial target the extremely scarce and rather enigmatic Brazilian Merganser, perhaps the world’s rarest duck.

 

Before we had even got to the favoured stretches of river a flurry of bird activity beside the road produced a group of the delightful Toco Toucan with a bonus solitary Red-breasted Toucan.  Other species well watched included the bizarre Red-legged Sereima, the neotropical equivalent of Africa’s Secretary Bird and whose local name is the rather endearing ‘off road chicken’. A little further and the rather sad discovery of a freshly killed but immaculate Striped Skunk followed almost immediately by a rather strange smell on the coach, perhaps I shouldn’t have removed it after all!  After some brief scanning from suitable roadside stops, we struck gold as two mergansers were spotted feeding in the middle of the river.

 

Scope views and some discussion later we decided that these were first year birds, both probably female. Onto the reserve proper and immediately a number of bird species were noted, the best perhaps being the remarkable male Helmeted Mannakin, that put in a brief appearance at the beginning of the trail to the falls. A few moments later and Regina spotted a pair of Masked Titi Monkeys feeding high in the trees on the opposite side of the river. This was a good find as the species can be awkward to see at Caraca and enabled everyone who wished, good scope views in bright light. It was a difficult choice as a group of Gilt-edged Tanagers, some of the most colourful of South America’s birds vied for attention.

The walk down to the falls itself produced very little else, bar magnificent views and the appreciation of the awesome power of water in freefall. Sadly the hoped for group of Black-tufted Marmosets failed to put in an appearance despite several attempts to lure them out.

 

Back at the campsite and our welcome packed lunch was quickly consumed with most attention drawn to the excellent chocolate cake Regina had managed to smuggle out of the pousada.  The late afternoon was to be spent back on the top as it were, with another attempt on Maned Wolf planned for dusk, providing the park authorities agreed. We journeyed back with a number of good bird species spotted from the coach including a huge flock of parakeets feeding around a cattle station and an excellent White-cheeked Puffbird. Stopping briefly at a local craft shop adorned with wooden toucans and the odd hummingbird feeder produced a fine Swallow-tailed and Stripe-breasted Starthroat. We eventually arrived back at the park gates a little later than planned but at a good time for hunting wolves. The guards, charmed by Regina allowed us an extra period after the park officially closed to give us a better chance. We decided to concentrate on the area close to the source of the river, as the two adjacent ridges are known territories. Fresh tracks just behind our parked bus frustrated rather than inspired as they appeared to head in the direction of the main ridge and its multitude of hiding places. Despite plenty of scanning only a handful of Giant Anteater had been found as darkness descended. Spotlighting our way out of the park produced very little with no evidence of any small mammals. In the evening we ate another great meal at a local restaurant a mere stone’s throw from the pousada.

 

19^th July

Today was going to be another travel day, and we needed to cover quite a distance as we wanted to arrive at our next destination, the monastery at Caraca, in plenty of time to check in and relax before the anticipated ‘evening show’. After a leisurely breakfast, other members of our group now sadly showing signs of succumbing to the dreaded virus, we boarded our bus and set off on our next leg.

 

Anticipating a stop at a small lake proved slightly optimistic, as the new road we were now travelling had bisected an important section of habitat.  As we drove through the town, we spotted a family group of Black-tufted Marmosets moving across the rooftops to take advantage of a young girl offering pieces of banana from the street. This habituated group of marmosets were showing fairly typical behaviour of animals co-existing with humans in crossover forest/urban environments. This was a bonus find, as we had missed them at Casca d’anta, and were about to again at Caraca. Lunch was taken in a restaurant in Belo Horizonte. The remainder of the afternoon drive down to the monastery was largely uneventful with only a few birds of prey identifiable from our moving vehicle. We eventually arrived at Santuario do Caraca after over eight hours on the road including stopping briefly to admire and photograph the monastery from above. We were all checked in and admiring our wood panelled rooms by 5.30 p.m.

 

After dinner at the monastery everyone made their way to the terrace to wait for the Maned Wolves to appear. An appearance soon after by a huge and magnificent female, with swollen teats, indicating a youngster hidden away somewhere close by, put huge smiles on everyone’s faces. Repeat visits by her and later on by a larger but somewhat nervous male (always looking down the terrace as if making sure the female was not coming), left everyone with fabulous memories and this was just our first night.

 

20^th July

The pre-breakfast session around the monastery proved productive with Brazilian Rabbit (Tapiti) still present from the night before, Brazilian Cavie and Guianan Squirrel being noted alongside a variety of birds present in the grounds. Breakfast, which is a kind of self serve, self-cook affair provided its usual entertainment and bewildered looks. A morning walk along the Tanque Grande trail to look for Masked Titi Monkey and Black-tufted Marmoset  produced the former, but not the latter. The views of the Titi Monkeys were very good indeed as a group slowly moved across the trail in front of us. The walk up to the reservoir provided a number of excellent birds to add to the Pin-tailed and Swallow-tailed Mannakins, and Surucua Trogon we had already seen. A Grey Brocket feeding out along the water’s edge was an excellent bonus. Returning for lunch we found a feeding flock of birds by the main bridge, which included the gorgeous Brazilian Ruby, and a little further a delightful Crescent-chested Puffbird. After lunch back at the monastery there was ample time for everyone to catch up with cavies and squirrels before we took a walk out along the trail leading to the falls. A number of good birds were seen on the first part of the trail including Grey-backed Tatchuri, Serra Antwren and Swallow-tailed Cotinga, the latter only briefly. Most of the group were fortunately with Regina when the strange termite mound suddenly started to run. A Brazilian Tapir, a large dark individual, was a major coup at this location and although it did not linger, the smiles and photographs produced later were enough to convince both Rod and myself that we had missed out badly. After another excellent dinner and warmed by El Toninio’s generous supply of some local Cachaca , the group returned for another evening on the terrace and more close encounters with Maned Wolf. We were not disappointed again, repeated and prolonged visits by a big male, often feeding only a few feet away, in the gothic surroundings of Caraca left wonderful memories.

 

21^st July

A post breakfast visit to an area above the ‘piscina’ to look for the stunning Hyacinth Visorbearer, an endemic gem of a hummingbird produced at least four individuals but no star performances despite the fantastic backdrop. A large mammal in the forested valley below refused to show itself and its identity remained a mystery. A few other birds were seen but generally the forest, particularly dry for this time of year, remained relatively quiet.

A quick turnaround back at the monastery, drinks bills settled and were off again, departing for another day largely spent on the road travelling towards Caratinga in eastern Minas Gerais, the base for our visit. We made a few stops but the only noteworthy observations were quick ‘fly-bys’ by blurred birds from a speeding bus often in locations unsafe to stop, much to the frustrations of the birders on board.

 

This was a mammal tour however, and after another great lunch stop we made our way late afternoon to Sitio Graciema. This privately owned finca just to the west of Manhuaca provides the joy of having close encounters with a habituated group of Geoffroy’s Marmosets. We were not disappointed. On arrival, the edge of forest bordering the house suddenly burst into action as marmoset after marmoset appeared in anticipation of a free meal. Possibly as many as eighteen of these wonderful little creatures were present, many of the adult animals gratefully accepting pieces of fresh banana from members of the group. By early evening we had arrived in Caratinga, a new base for WildWings, as Ipanema has been deemed too noisy from previous years’ tours. We quickly discovered that despite being able to see our hotel, this did not necessarily mean it was easy to get too! I don’t know how many times we circled the piazza gloriously bordered by mature Royal Palms, but it all became very familiar and it took our driver’s best efforts to eventually get us to the entrance. After  quick form filling, we all relished our first power showers and unlimited hot water for a week, before eating a delicious meal in the restaurant downstairs.

 

22^nd July

After an early breakfast we departed for a day in Reserve Biologica de Caratinga in search of the most threatened of primates possible on this tour, the Muriqui and Buffy-headed Marmoset as well as two more common primates, Brown Howler and Black Capuchin (formerly a subspecies of the Brown Capuchin). A short stop en route produced a pair of stunning Streamer-tailed Tyrants and an assortment of grassland species. A little nearer the reserve and a sharp-eyed John spotted what he thought was an otter on the main river, not bad from a moving bus in relative shade. Moments later and we were all enjoying superb views of an adult Neotropical River Otter, on riverside rocks, negotiating rapids and then fishing alongside the road. This is a rarely seen animal here, only our second, and a species one of the main guides in the area had failed to observe in seven year’s fieldwork. This was quickly followed by a small group of Brown Howlers with youngsters showing really nicely in good light just beside the road. A little further and a local, motionless but with neck craned alerted us to a fine group of Black Capuchin. All this before we had even entered the reserve!  When we finally did make it to the reserve HQ, radio messages between researchers and HQ told us of the possibility of seeing the Muriqui rather quicker than anticipated. Setting off in the back of the reserve pick-up truck we sped off uphill toward the beginning of a trail that leads to a newly built watchtower. A rather quick trek uphill ensued, some stopping for the odd bird, Crescent-chested Puffbird, Pauraque and a pair of Eastern Slaty Antshrike before we reached the watchtower. Radios cackled and then sprung into life, researchers and Muriqui had parted company and contact had been lost. After diligently scanning the surrounding area from the top of the tower and, failing to locate anything of note we decided to call in the pick-up truck and take a different route back to HQ.

 

This proved to be fortuitous, as requiring two runs, the initial group had been dropped unknowingly close to one of our target species. A group of Howlers vied for attention with some elusive Capuchin. We walked a little further. Regina disappeared and then re-appeared in a kind of running, freefall fashion from a steep trail, giving the impression that she was being chased, by a large snake. Fortunately this was not the case. She had just found the missing Muriqui and they were coming our way!  For the next thirty minutes or so, we all witnessed at close range a fantastic array of behaviour and bonding from this all male group. After a multitude of photographic opportunities the research team were informed and we returned, some walking, some by vehicle to the HQ. The walkers inevitably bumped into numerous birds on the way back. Particularly pleasing was a feeding flock including Ruby-crowned, Gilt-edged and Green-headed Tanagers alongside other species that were just too high to be positively identified. The packed lunch that we had arranged to be brought into the park was well received, especially as it introduced most to the delights of the soon to be famous ‘Mindy Bar’, a sort of sweet, claggy peanut butter block. Regina and I later discovered that they made ideal bribery tools! Another group of Muriqui, this time females with young, were discovered close to the HQ alongside the main road and some ventured off to watch these.

 

In the afternoon, most took a walk back along the main track in the hope of locating a three-toed sloth that had been present a few days before. Despite eleven pairs of eyes concentrating on the canopy we failed to locate this elusive beast. I say eleven pairs of eyes because Lydia had decided to remain at the HQ but under the strict understanding that she was not allowed to see the marmoset. We continued up the track for a while, catching up with more Howlers and Capuchins plus a multitude of bird species, the highlight perhaps being the ridiculously obliging Little Tinamou feeding along the roadside verge. Soon it was time to return to HQ, board our bus and go in search of Buffy-headed Marmoset in an area favoured, close to the entrance. Upon arrival I was greeted by a rather nervous looking Lydia. Sitting quietly watching the edge of a forest clearing is always productive, but today had proved particularly fruitful, as the marmosets had come out to watch Lydia!  We of course failed, despite thoroughly checking all the suitable areas and decided an early morning assault was the best option, jokingly pointing out which was the quickest way to walk back to Lydia!  Dropping off our lunch boxes in the local village we watched in amazement as a Swallow-tailed Hummingbird and Planalto Hermit kept vanishing into a house in a game of chase. Back at the hotel via another route, we enjoyed dinner before retiring to bed happy after another successful day.

 

23^rd July

Another early start, speedy breakfast and a quick return to the area bordering Caratinga Reserve which we knew was good for the Buffy-headed Marmoset. Almost immediately we reaped the reward as a vocal group was spotted from the bus as soon as we had stopped. This delightful little monkey can be hard to see at the best of times but this morning, their antics were well watched from quite close range, albeit partially hidden, or with strained necks for quite some time. After more views of Howlers whilst looking for the other half of the marmoset group on the opposite side of the road, we made our way back to Caratinga and a quick turnaround before departing on the long journey back to Belo Horizonte. Stopping en route for a late lunch at a favoured stop, we made it in good time to catch our flight to Cuiaba via the rather quirkily designed Brasilia, capital of this vast country. Despite our previous experiences of the potential cold in the Pantanal at this time of year, we arrived in Cuiaba late evening to discover they were experiencing a mini heat wave, with day time temperatures peaking at 41C - so much for the cold weather gear!

 

A short trip from the airport and we were all relaxing or sleeping in the rather luxuriant  surroundings of the Amazon Plaza Hotel.

 

 

24^th July

Despite our long travel day yesterday, we still managed to be on the road not long after breakfast albeit a slightly later one. With hot temperatures predicted and more people beginning to feel the affects of the mystery virus, we were a little nervous about the air- conditioning circulating the illness further, and our comfortable coach for this initial run to the Transpantaneira had  locked windows.  Still, everybody coped well and after picking up a variety of fluids at a supermarket in Pocone we were soon heading south on the gravel and sand of the Transpantaneira reaching the entrance to the Pantanal in good time.

From here on the richness of this huge ecosystem was clear for all to see. Almost immediately we saw a pair of the truly magnificent Hyacinth Macaws fly by the coach as if to welcome us. A few miles farther and a Marsh Deer, a fine antlered stag caught our attention from the roadside. Further stops were made to view and photograph the wealth of water birds and birds of prey found alongside the road here. Species seen included Jabiru, Maguari and Wood Storks, Great and Snowy Egrets, Little Blue Heron, Rufescent Tiger Heron, Snail Kite, Black-collared and Savannah Hawks. Rather more unexpected so far north was a pair of Giant Otters viewed and photographed fishing and playing in a roadside pool clearly deeper than is normal for this time of year.

 

Continuing south it was clear that there was a lot more water around this year and because of this, there was less species concentration.  A little further and a brief stop at Araras Ecolodge’s BarAraras to pick up some potential bribery in the form of a carrier bag full of Mindy Bars, before continuing our way onto Pixaim. After encounters with our first Black and Gold Howler Monkey and Capybara, the world’s largest rodent, we arrived at the Beira Rio, Pixaim just in time for a splendid buffet lunch. After lunch while some took the opportunity to rest, others chose to spend time watching and photographing the colourful array of birds and reptiles around the hotel itself. These included Ringed and Amazon Kingfishers, Yellow-billed Cardinal, Bay-winged, Shiny and Giant Cowbirds, Purplish Jay, the now numerous Pantanal Caiman and Tegu Lizard.

 

At 3.30 we boarded our boat for the trip east along the adjacent Rio Pixaim. We were not to be disappointed. As we headed away from our hotel, a wealth of water birds alongside several Bare-faced Currasow and numerous Chaco Chacalaca’s vied for attention. Rounding a bend, the main reason for our trip suddenly appeared, the family of habituated Giant Otter that has been using these stretches of river for a number of years. Initially, a rather boisterous trio of otters came to investigate the boat and participants, sometimes too close to photograph but certainly not far enough away to disguise their very fishy breath! After thirty minutes of close encounters we reckoned that there were at least ten individuals in the group excluding the guardians and young we knew were present undercover. During this period we enjoyed the otters at close range both in and out of the water, a truly magical experience. We returned back in time for some brief exploration of the grounds before our evening meal.

 

Post dinner and we were off again, this time on our newly-gained open back safari-style truck for a spotlighting session on the Transpantaneira north of Pixaim. Initially difficult because of the sheer volume of water unusually present at this time of year, we still managed to spot Crab-eating Fox and Racoon plus Common Potoo, and an excellent Tarantula before retiring for the night.

 

25^th July

An early pre-breakfast boat trip heading west from the hotel was pretty atmospheric but produced no new mammals of note. A small group of Black and Gold Howler Monkeys and a rather elusive Sungrebe were probably the highlights. Sadly a repeat of last year’s excellent Southern Tamandua was not on this year’s menu. However, on return to our hotel, our breakfast was, and included copious amounts of strong Brazilian coffee for those that needed it. After breakfast we loaded up the luggage van and climbed aboard our ‘open’ truck for a long drive down to Porto Jofre. We stopped at various points but most target species remained elusive. The ‘Pantanal’ Marmosets that we spotted at a bridge remained difficult to see in the verdant vegetation alongside their river base. A group of roosting Long-nosed Bats were easier as they spent their day sleeping under one of the 128 wooden bridges that allow transfer between Pocone and Porto Jofre. A couple of low flying King Vultures were a great find and allowed everyone to get a look at the most dapper member of the vulture clan. Numerous encounters with small groups of the rather endearing Capybara, always set amongst the now ridiculously common Pantanal Caiman further indicated the amount of water present.

 

We stopped for lunch at the Jaguar Ecological Reserve’s Pousada Jaguar and enjoyed a splendid buffet with at least three Hyacinth Macaws noisily calling outside. A brief conversation with the owner Eduardo on the road in alerted us to the problems of the task that lay ahead. Despite spending four days on the river at Porto Jofre specifically looking for Jaguar, they had failed and the challenge was set. Apart from Red Brocket, a new ungulate for the trip, numerous Capybara and the odd good bird the trip south was largely uneventful. The Pantanal was just a little too wet.

 

We arrived at Porto Jofre with enough time to explore the grounds on foot. The roosting Hyacinth Macaw was much appreciated as were the Black-necked Aracari, Buff-necked Ibis, and, the emergence of Nacunda Nighthawks amongst others in the evening. After a splendid buffet dinner at the restaurant we returned to the truck for an evening’s spotlighting session. Driving back north along the Transpantaneira we almost immediately struck gold in the form of a well marked Ocelot casually roaming the track ahead. We continued further north but despite many encounters with nightjars, particularly Scissor-tailed, it generally felt quiet and we decided to turnaround. On our return journey, a superb Anaconda crossing the road allowed close albeit brief views of this superb constrictor. The rather worrying fact that no Jaguar spores had been noted was quickly put aside, Ocelot and Anaconda was not a bad night.

 

26^th July

An early breakfast and a day spent exploring the river system from Porto Jofre. The advantage of using a twin-engined speedboat to explore the area soon became apparent as we hurtled up the main river from Porto Jofre. We located a group of Giant Otters rather quickly but on this river the animals are much shyer than at Pixaim, and the group soon disappeared. Checking every sandbank we passed revealed the rather worrying fact that because there was so much water elsewhere in the Pantanal, there were no signs that the big cats were moving down to the river just yet.  An impressive group of Black Skimmers together with some synchronised skimming drew our attention for a while, as did the rather gorgeous Pied Lapwings usually present on the sandbanks. Onward and more checking of the river’s edge revealed no sign of Jaguars, this was getting worrying. The birders on board of course had not noticed, they were too busy on a plethora of raptors and other species constantly crossing the river overhead. In the extreme heat of the day we headed back to Porto Jofre for a break and a welcome lunch in preparation for another attempt in the afternoon.

 

The hour’s break after lunch gave many the opportunity to familiarise themselves with the gorgeous but noisy Hyacinth Macaws which were now resting in the trees behind our rooms.  The afternoon session went pretty much the same as the morning, still no sign of Jaguar or any other mammal bar the rather common Capybara . No Tapir, no Tamandua just the odd distant Black and Gold Howler. Plenty of birds of course, Rufous-tailed Jacamar, Great Black and Grey Hawks, the lovely Roseate Spoonbill, numerous kingfishers but our top target remained elusive. That was until really late in the day, when, during an impromptu toilet stop we discovered what we had been searching for, fresh signs. There in the wet sand at the water’s edge were two sets of fresh tracks, one large, one slightly smaller, Jaguar. The tracks still showed clear signs of the claw indentations, in fact they were immaculate maybe only a few hours old and either a male and female or female with well grown young. The light was fading at this stage but encouraged, we vowed to check this stretch again the following day. Our return to Jofre, due to the rather speedily declining light was at breakneck speed but even so the numerous Band-tailed Nightjar and Greater Fishing Bats were entertaining.  A post dinner spotlighting session produced very little other than numerous Caiman and the odd transfixed Capybara.

 

27^th July.

Another early breakfast and we were on the boat again, this time initially heading west to an area that a male Jaguar had been seen the day before by a group of fisherman. Again despite some effort and careful navigation of a shallow tributary, rather reminiscent of a scene from Apocalypse Now, we failed to find any fresh signs. Our boatman, Matheus is an experienced Jaguar observer yet despite careful, patient human imitation, a technique that has worked for us previously, we still drew a blank. Heading back east at speed we decided to make our way directly to the area of the previous evening’s fresh tracks, stopping wherever applicable to scan known and favoured areas. Half the morning had gone and I was beginning to wonder whether this was going to be another wild goose chase when the atmosphere suddenly changed. As we rounded a bend and accessed a minor tributary, a number of good signs became apparent. A large gathering of vultures, a sudden strange musty smell, remarkable quiet and then ‘Bang’! and mutterings from the back of the boat. Whilst I was concentrating on the sandbank ahead, Regina was looking up into the shade of the trees of the riverbank. There amongst the shadows and dappled light, sprawled out horizontally was a huge well-marked cat, the prize we had been looking for, our Jaguar. Carefully positioning the boat into the adjacent riverbank and securing the bow enabled us to have unobstructed views of this magnificent beast. A male, and judging by the visible scars quite a bruiser. We watched and photographed this stunning creature for some time before a large splash in the water below diverted his attention. Initially looking like he was about to jump in, he thought better of it and retired to a new position slightly out of view. We moved first to try and get a better position and then, to give him a break, went off upstream with the intention of drifting back with the engine off. Sadly, this failed but with everyone now having enjoyed exceptional views, and the Jaguar calmly retired in the shade, we returned to Porto Jofre ecstatic. It had been a very good morning.

 

Because the Jaguars had appeared to be very difficult on the main river this year, and with the knowledge that two had been seen on the Transpantaneira, we decided that after a post lunch rest, we would drive all the way back to the Jaguar Ecological Reserve, spotlight the renowned Santa Isabel Road and then spotlight all the way back to Porto Jofre, arriving back in time for a late dinner. Two Neotropical River Otters on the way up was a good start but despite some really diligent searching nothing other than a few brief encounters with species previously seen was noted.  A superb low flying Nacunda Nighthawk, some sleeping Black and Gold Howlers and a small group of Black-striped Capuchins were the main highlights.

A close encounter with a Bothrops viper sp was a little too close - we ran over the animal as it crossed the road in front of us. Numerous Great Horned Owl and Scissor-tailed Nightjars with the occasional Potoo were the only birds of note. We returned in time for a late dinner and a few beers, the day had after all been a great success, thanks to a rather large and beautifully marked big cat!

 

28^th July

Today were heading north, back along the Transpantaneira to Pousada Araras. After a relatively leisurely breakfast, we checked out, loaded up our support vehicle with both luggage and the latest victim of our endemic virus, and boarded our open truck for the final leg of our journey. The initial part of the run produced very little in the terms of new species just further confirmation of the magnificence of this wetland world. A brief view of what was almost certainly an Agouti was just that, brief!  The truck disturbed huge numbers of water birds, particularly egrets from a feeding frenzy provided by the drying Pantanal.  Everywhere we looked, a visual feast, flowering Jacaranda and Y’pe trees, the Pantaneiros themselves, Capybara, Marsh and Red Brocket and water, a lot of water.  Getting through this wild landscape requires a lot of bridges, bridges generally made of degradable wood.  When we finally met up again with our support vehicle, we discovered the driver fixing a collapsed section of bridge, and that we had just missed a Brazilian Tapir!

 

We did get a Tayra run across the road just south of Jaguar Ecolodge along with a couple of Black and Gold Howler Monkeys, plus lots of birds were seen from Southern Screamer to Rufous Cachalote, Crested Orependula to Sunbittern.  We drove the Santa Isabel Road but apart from lots of Blue-throated Piping Guans and excellent views of a pair of Blue-crowned Trogons little else was noted, certainly not the hoped for marmosets anyway. We called in at Pousada Jaguar for a welcome toilet/coffee stop before proceeding to Pixaim for lunch and a midday break at the Beira Rio. For those that just could not rest, forays into the field provided catch up for species such as Greater Thornbird, which were nesting in the compound. 

 

From here we headed north once more and onto Araras Ecolodge, eyes peeled in search of ‘Pantanal’ Marmoset a species that had so far eluded us. We saw plenty to keep us busy, despite the heat of the day, the best perhaps the two Coatis caught snoozing in the leaf litter alongside the road. A young Greater Rhea feeding amongst termite mounds was rather poorly accused of being an Ostrich!  In fairness, judging by the amount of introduced Water Buffalo ‘wild’ roaming this area, anything is possible.

 

We made it to Araras in good time to check in and for those that wanted to, a brief exploration of the lodge. An initial scan provided views of a number of parrot species, and at least two stunning Sunbittern feeding in the nearby pools. The boardwalk provides access through the wetlands and into a small patch of forest with a canopy tower. We made it to the top just as a group of Black-striped Capuchin moved in to forage in the trees below providing an excellent opportunity for observation.

 

A group of what were probably White-lipped Peccary put in a brief appearance before vanishing nervously into the undergrowth. Some feral pigs further confused the issue by doing the same a little later. With such a fantastic view from the top, some of us lingered a little longer and although just a short distance, only just made it out before dark and the impending biting insects. After our evening meal we boarded our truck for what was without doubt, our best nights spotlighting. Initially we had decided to drive part of Araras’s own private circuit opposite the main interest. Before we had even started the engine we were enjoying superb views of a pair of Crab-eating Foxes feeding on the edge of our compound. Rather comically, one even managed to get nipped on the nose as it foraged along the edge of the pool.

 

As soon as we entered the drive opposite the main entrance we began to pick up ‘eye shine’ out in the distance. Both Red and Grey Brocket were found feeding in paddocks and alongside the forest edge, the latter in reasonable numbers. A brief view of a Crab-eating Raccoon was soon eclipsed by a stunning and close encounter with an incredibly well marked Brazilian Tapir, the white ear tips positively glowing. The use of a green filter, designed for animals with sensitive eyes really came into its own as the Tapir appeared to ignore the light. We watched amazed as the animal walked toward a strong fence bordering the forest, knelt down and crawled under the smallest gap possible. A little further, more Grey Brocket and suddenly lots of eye shine ahead. Sadly this proved to be a large group of feral Water Buffalo on a nightly roam. From here we headed back out onto the Transpantaneira and drove slowly south, spotlights sweeping either side of the road. Suddenly the lights caught something running across the road, tonight was clearly a good night as we all enjoyed a brief but clear view of an adult Nine-banded Armadillo, just superb!  A little further and a stop at one of the many bridges provided a view of what we thought was a fleeing Crab-eating Racoon. Switching back to the green filter enabled us to watch without fear of disturbing the animal now partially hidden. To our great surprise and total enjoyment, the animal ventured back out of the vegetation with its three young tentatively following. It was indeed  Crab-eating Racoons, so endearing they took your breath away. We watched in full view for the next five minutes or so the mother showing the rather playful babies how to feel for food, arm deep in mud. Another Crab-eating Fox appeared and disappeared from a roadside pool followed by another fabulous Brazilian Tapir. This time though we could not quite get the green filter on in time to relax the animal and it quickly disappeared.  As we turned the vehicle flushed with success, another Tapir vanished of into the distance. The journey back to Araras was largely uneventful but after the best nights spotlighting so far, no one cared.

 

29^th July

Breakfast at Pousada Araras is always a splendid affair. The reason is simple, we ate outside with a kaleidoscope of colour buzzing around the bird feeding stations. Aracaris and toucans competing for position with macaws and parakeets, cardinals and cowbirds. Throw in passing White Woodpeckers, titbit thieving Rufous Hornero’s or the sheer spectacle of wetland birds moving about, and its hard to drink your coffee in peace. This morning we took a walk up the boardwalk to the canopy tower. Almost immediately we picked a group of ‘Pantanal’ Marmosets, our tenth primate species involving maybe three or four individuals quietly feeding in trees above us. Ten metres further and we were watching a bird party which included Great Rufous Woodcreeper and Red-billed Scythbill, the endemic Matto Grosso Antbird, Undulated Tinamou , Blue-crowned Trogon and for some lucky individuals another male Helmeted Mannakin. A little further and some noisy leaf-litter alerted us to a small party of the rather cheeky South American Coati. This lovely animal in its resplendent rufous phase were a joy to watch, and evidently we were too as their long snouts stuck out from the denser vegetation indicating we were under close scrutiny too. Several Azara’s Agouti then put in an appearance with one very confident individual literally walking across the trail beneath us.  Onto the tower and a small family group of Black and Gold Howler Monkeys had replaced the previous evening’s capuchins in the trees close to the tower steps.  A walk around the various tree-bound termite mounds indicated fresh Tamandua activity though despite some pretty intense searching none could be located. Lots more birds on the way out were a catch up for some, namely Undulated Tinamou , which largely appeared in front of the people not wishing to see it!

 

The first few hours after lunch were free for everyone to do as they pleased. Many returned to the main boardwalk where the ‘Pantanal’ Marmosets had now increased in numbers and were taking an afternoon siesta providing an ideal filming and photographic opportunity. Nearby, a group of Black-striped Capuchins were doing the same, but were much harder to get to grips with, as was the nesting Rufescent Tiger Heron which gave our Belgian counterpart a good run around.  Others explored the other boardwalk and tower, discovering a number of mature Marsh Deer, and at one stage five Sunbittern. A snoozing Crab-eating Fox in the ashes of a recent fire was a welcome distraction.

 

The afternoon drive around the Araras circuit was initially rather disappointing. Apart from some distant Turquoise-fronted Parrots, some fast flying macaws, the odd woodpecker everywhere seemed relatively quiet. Further on and the new lodge area, a couple of exceptionally tame Collared Peccarys came to see us before screaming off in a game of chase. A roosting Great Potoo was greatly appreciated as we had only previously seen the species at night. We lingered a little longer than we should have in the long grass picking up several ticks of the blood-sucking invertebrate variety to add to our records. Driving through the relatively open, dry forest we stumbled across a large ‘bird-party’, which appeared to have so many different species it was worth a concentrated effort. It is always difficult to watch and identify concentrations like this as everyone locks onto something different each time, and descriptions vary dramatically.  This time I think we did pretty well with a good number of birds seen well by most people and allowing some catch-up time. Vying for attention Rufous Cassiornis, Rusty-fronted Tody Flycatcher, Band-tailed Antbird and White-edged Piculet competed with the rather easier to see Golden Green Woodpecker, White-tailed Goldenthroat, Rufous-tailed Jacamar and Straight-billed Woodcreeper. It was a good birding and greatly appreciated by most of the group.

 

As we continued, back toward the lodge the sharply breaking truck alerted us to the star mammal of the day so far. Running towards us on the grassy verge was a superb Yellow Armadillo, built like a miniature hairy tank this wonderful beast was a WildWings first and greatly enjoyed by all those present. In the evening, after dinner, we decided to try our luck on the Transpantaneira north of Araras for a possible encounter with Puma, the most difficult cat to see here. Of course we failed, the drive north was producing so little apart from solitary Crab-eating Racoon and Crab-eating Fox that we decided to turn the vehicle and head the other way. Returning back along the route followed the previous night we found pretty much the same thing, very little!  It often happens like this, one night’s spotlighting can be absolutely superb, and the following two nights produce nothing at all. Just as we were about to call it a day I caught something out of the corner of the beam too quick to tell but with alarm bells ringing. We reversed the truck and immediately picked up the bright green glow of eyes emanating from a ditch half way down a private track. Replacing the green filter quickly, we managed to position the truck to everyone’s viewing advantage. Focusing in, I realised we had struck gold for there, bathed in green light, was a magnificent Ocelot, for me, the World’s most beautiful cat. We squeaked and watched, as the animal walked towards us, along the dirt track, showcasing the stunning patterns to its complicated coat. This was a fabulous encounter and a fitting end to our last night in the Pantanal. The journey back to Araras was largely silent, but no doubt with everyone grinning from ear to ear.

 

30^th July

Our final early breakfast of the trip and with little time to do anything else, we loaded our comfortable coach and headed north toward Cuiaba and our flight back to Sao Paulo. After a week of hot, dry weather the much anticipated cold front was now clearly on its way from the far south and the skies overhead filled with rather ominous looking cloud formations. Journeying along the Transpantaneira, we stopped at a few suitable spots before finally relocating the group of Giant Otters that we had found on the first day of our visit here. This time on the opposite side of the road and numbering at least four individuals, we watched their comical play fighting over a freshly caught fish before they each dived and disappeared from view. A little further along and the appearance of at least two Scarlet-headed Blackbirds graced the binoculars of those who had tried and failed to see this species further south.  Arriving at the airport in Cuiaba with plenty of time to check-in, before the hordes arrived was an appreciated bonus as some in our group were now suffering badly from the dreaded virus. Our flight to the domestic airport was largely uneventful but caused quite a shock to most as we landed within a stone’s throw of high-rise apartments either side of the runway.

We were met at the airport by a representative from our ground agents and boarded a rather luxurious bus for the transfer between domestic and international airports via a brief city tour.

At Sao Paulo we had plenty of time for a farewell meal before checking onto the return, overnight flight to London via Madrid.

 

Report by Mark Andrews.