Antarctica, the Falklands and South Georgia  5^th – 23^rd February 2006

This trip certainly raised the bar in terms of outstanding!  Arguably the best ever, with the most notable event being the first ever Blue Whales that I have seen in these waters in 17 years of expeditions.  Also very noteworthy were the excellent numbers of Antarctic Petrels and of Snow Petrels too, plus the fact that we had good weather pretty much the whole time.  The staff and crew on the Ioffe did, as ever, an excellent job to ensure that we had a very safe and very enjoyable never-ending run of great experiences.  We certainly benefited tremendously from having the many pairs of eyes in the WildWings group, especially as is usual these days there were very few others on board that are really interested in wildlife, let alone had binoculars.  Indeed, the WildWings group were again foremost in spotting most of the best sightings and the WildWings radios ensured that we all got to see as much as feasibly possible.

By the time we arrived at the Antarctic Peninsula we had already had enough fantastic experiences in the Falklands and South Georgia to go home elated, so the Antarctic sector of the voyage was an excellent way to top it all off. 

At the beginning of the voyage, after initial flight delays on the way south, our first full day’s birding in Ushuaia was excellent, with the highlight being a party of three Magellanic Woodpeckers giving excellent views to the entire group.  Leaving Ushuaia the seas were gentle and birds plentiful as we headed for the Falklands where we had two excellent days, followed by another gentle and bird-rich crossing, to South Georgia.  Better still were the whales – which on the second day of that crossing were absolutely incredible, indeed without precedent in recent times. There were up to 20 or more Blue Whales in a mixed group of 60 or 80 or more large rorquals in a small area!   We then had three amazing days at South Georgia, such an incredible place where the scenery and wildlife again combined to make for brochure shots and experiences never-to-be-forgotten.  The weather and seas remained fair as we headed towards Antarctica, with large numbers of huge icebergs from the South Orkneys onwards, and amazing numbers of Antarctic and Snow Petrels too, as well as more whales and Orcas.  Then, the “Great White Continent” where we had a great variety of weather, mainly with low winds, some snow, some idyllic blissful sunshine, dramatic scenery and finally fresh sea-ice forming on our calm and clear last night.  The Drake Passage on the return was very kind, with gentle seas and good birding, culminating in mill-pond conditions as we rounded Cape Horn, where we saw Rockhopper Penguins and leaping Peale’s Dolphins.  Our final excursion in Ushuaia was an incredibly idyllic day – totally calm and cloudless, enabling us to see the rare White-throated Caracaras and enjoy many other birds before heading north.  We came home elated.  Thank-you “WildWingers” for coming and enjoying it all so much!

Day-by-day log

Days One & Two: Gatwick-Buenos Aires  

Members of the group made their way to Gatwick to fly to Buenos Aires via Madrid.  Unfortunately a technical problem with the aircraft caused delays that resulted in a late arrival in Buenos Aires the next day.  The visit to the Costanera Sur reserve was consequently rearranged for later in the trip. Jonathan, Graham and Mary arrived on the earlier flight and we headed out for an enjoyable evening meal.  I then went back to the airport to meet the rest of the group who arrived on the later flight.  We too then headed to the Hotel Bristol where it was time for bed.

Day Three  Buenos Aires to Ushuaia

A very exceptional wet and stormy morning greeted us in Buenos Aires.  After a leisurely breakfast buffet a hardy few braved the storm and were rewarded with a few birds near the hotel – including Argentina’s national bird, the Rufous Hornero.  There was time also to look round the shops.  After checking out from the hotel early afternoon we left for the domestic airport (Aeroparque) for our non-stop flight down to Ushuaia.  Aerolineas Argentinas had lengthy delays on many flights including ours, the departure time of which was put back until we finally left some hours late.  Arriving safely in Ushuaia well past midnight in the rain we headed straight to our hotel and to bed.

Day Four Ushuaia

After our breakfast buffet we headed out to the Tierra del Fuego National Park with Marcelo, stopping occasionally en-route. The weather was fine, scenery excellent and we had a great selection of birds, including a couple of Andean Condors and a fantastic trio of Magellanic Woodpeckers that gave great photo opportunities as just desert to all who had made the longish walk in search of them. Other species included several Black-faced Ibis and commoner woodland species such as the delightful and inquisitive Thorn-tailed Rayaditos and the appropriately named Fire-eyed Diucons.  Whilst eating our picnic lunch we watched a pair of Spectacled Ducks (a difficult to locate species), and a pair of Ashy-headed Geese. All too soon it was time to bid farewell to our guide and board the Akademik Ioffe, our home for the next two and a half weeks.  Introductions, a tour of the ship by Dick, a welcome buffet and the formalities of a lifeboat drill all followed in quick succession. We sailed early evening, and were soon watching our first Black-browed Albatrossses and Magellanic Penguins, as well as thousands of Sooty Shearwaters, with the keenest observers being rewarded with some excellent views of Magellanic Diving Petrel.  Soon afterward dinner was served, the first of many tasty meals from our three great chefs. The Beagle Channel slid by as we steamed eastwards into the night. We were on our way.

Day Five At Sea - heading for The Falklands

We enjoyed a great introduction to the southern ocean – just enough wind to keep the albatrosses flying and not so much that it was uncomfortable travelling.  I often marvel at just how smoothly the Akademik Ioffe sails on the ocean – indeed she is so stable at sea that I have often woken up and wondered if we are not back in port tied up. A swift glance out the cabin window soon puts you straight!  So it was this morning, and with a gentle breeze from the north birding was very pleasant.  Hundreds of Black-browed Albatross were a spectacle in themselves, with at least two Southern Royal Albatross to put their size into perspective.  At the other end of the scale it was excellent to see at least 10 Grey-backed Storm-Petrels.  There were scores of Southern Giant Petrels, thousands of Slender-billed Prions, a single Cape Petrel, 2+White-chinned Petrels, 6+Great Shearwaters, thousands of Sooty Shearwaters, and at least 10 Common Diving Petrels.  Single Rockhopper and Magellanic Penguins gave some extra spice, but the prize for most unexpected bird of the day went to the Thorn-tailed Rayadito spotted by Dave early morning.  Unfortunately there was a dead Blue Petrel found on the aft deck.  Marine mammals included a large rorqual whale, possibly a Sei, 3 Peale’s Dolphins seen by Nick and Dick, a single Southern Elephant Seal, and half a dozen or so South American Fur Seals.

It was a great start to the sea watching, and it would be repeated, with variations, on several days to come

Day Six: Port Stanley / Gypsy Cove

We had made good time overnight on gentle seas and at dawn we were approaching Port Stanley Outer Harbour, and thence via The Narrows to our anchorage just in front of the town.  Disembarking via zodiac we boarded our bus to Gypsy Cove and headed out of town for the morning.  Getting off the bus below the airport, we birded our way around to Gypsy Cove, getting great views of many birds en route including Falkland Flightless Steamer Duck, White-rumped Sandpipers, Two-banded Plover, Rufous-chested Dotterel, Blackish and Magellanic Oystercatchers, Dolphin and Kelp Gulls, Dark-faced Ground Tyrant, Grass Wren, Austral Thrush, Correndera Pipit, Long-tailed Meadowlark, Black-throated Finch and Black-chinned Siskins.  Most surprising was perhaps the family party of Ruddy-headed Geese. It was only a short walk to the cove where there were many Magellanic Penguins on the sandy beach, with others still at their burrows.  Close by we found several nesting Rock Shags (on the rocks!), some Black-crowned Night Herons, more Black-chinned Siskins and Black-throated Finches, whilst a pair of Red-backed Hawks circled overhead.

Back in town we looked round the small but splendid museum, with a great variety of exhibits covering natural history and human history too, including some of the equipment that Ian used when he practiced dentistry here in the 1960’s.  Time for some shopping, photography (e.g of Kelp and Upland Geese) and even a pint, before heading back to the Ioffe at the end of the afternoon.  We set sail for Sealion Island.

Day Seven  East Falkland – Sealion and Bleaker Islands

Gentle swells greeted us as we approached Sealion Island.  Landing on a wave swept beach we were immersed in the teeming wildlife.  Just on the landing beach there were Upland, Kelp and Ruddy-headed Geese, Two-banded Plovers and Rufous-chested Dotterels, White-rumped and Baird’s Sandpipers, nesting Dolphin Gulls, Gentoo and Magellanic Penguins, Southern Elephant Seals (subadult males).  Walking across the island we encountered Blackish Cinclodes, Striated Caracaras, Grass Wrens and the endemic Cobb’s Wrens, Silvery Grebes, Speckled Teal, and Paraguayan Snipe which gave some amazing views down to a few inches! On the other side of the island we came to a large colony of Imperial Cormorants, along with several Rockhopper Penguins and a loitering Striated Caracara or two. Nearby on the cliffs, there several Turkey Vultures. Some of us walked back to the landing beach – with a couple of folks detouring to view the South American Sealions on the beach, whilst others took the offer of a lift on the island’s Land Rover.  It was an excellent morning and we had to prise ourselves off the beach to get back on the ship for lunch as we sailed to Bleaker island. 

Hundreds of Black-browed Albatross rode the wind as we approached, more than adequate compensation for the extra time that it took to get into a position from which we could safely launch the Zodiacs and make it to shore around the back of the island.  Commerson’s Dolphins accompanied the zodiacs on the way in, giving us excellent views only bettered by those on the way back to the ship later.  Once on shore we walked the short distance to a vast Imperial Cormorant rookery, where huge crèches of nearly fledged youngsters loitered, and on the nearby cliffs we saw four Rockhopper Penguins.  By now it was getting towards dusk so we headed back to the jetty (yes – a “dry” landing!) and into the zodiacs for the four mile ride back to the ship.  The Commerson’s Dolphins were outstanding – for prolonged periods there were just inches away from the travelling zodiacs, and even cruised around them whilst we climbed back onboard the Ioffe at the gangway – presumably waiting for the Zodiac to leave the gangway and create a wake for them to frolic in again.

Days Eight & Nine: At Sea 

The weather was fair both days as we headed east towards South Georgia.  These sea days are always full of expectancy and we again enjoyed many great sightings of seabirds, and with the bonus of some incredible whale sightings too.  Birds were our constant companions both days, with the expected albatrosses, petrels, shearwaters, prions and Storm Petrels, and perhaps most notable amongst all these were several Grey Petrels.  Soft-plumaged Petrels were frequent throughout the day, also giving great views, but best of all was getting really fantastic views of the large albatrosses - several Wandering and one Southern Royal as well as the Black-browed and Grey-headed.  I studied our projected course and timing on the chart and told the group that whilst we do not normally tend to pick up on much different on the following day, there were some seamounts at the edge of the Scotia Ridge that we would be passing over early afternoon, so probably best to plan on not having a nap after lunch tomorrow.

Our second day out from the Falklands started innocuously enough, with fair numbers of seabirds before breakfast, but shortly after we had eaten, the action really began. Phil “Fishbone” Roget was in the lecture room downstairs preambling his lecture on marine mammals to the assembled passengers. Ian, myself and a few others remained stoically on watch and were thrilled to see a large whale blow some way ahead.  The tall columnar blow was probably a Fin Whale.  As we approached it blew again, still distant, but tall and straight – the sort of blow that I have seen Fin Whales do in the past I felt sure, but surely this was especially tall? Fanciful imagination no doubt… but then it blew again, and although it was at least a mile or so abeam of us to port, we could see the “finless” back and massive tail stock as it arched.  Ian confidently said he thought it was a Blue.  I too was convinced.  We made an announcement on the ships tannoy that it looked like we probably had a Blue Whale. Phil, in the lecture theatre told his audience that there were so few Blue Whales ever seen in the Southern ocean in recent years that he would happily buy everyone a drink for every genuine Blue Whale we would see.  It was not hard to read between the lines that he was a tad doubtful of the report.  Then it breached with a huge splash.  By now, upstairs, we knew.  And by the time they reached the outer deck the captain had already changed course and shortly we were getting fabulous views of not one, but two Blue Whales.  Fishbone was as ecstatic as the rest of us, until he was reminded of his pending bar bill!  We stayed with one of the Blues for perhaps three quarter’s of an hour, the captain gently and skilfully manoeuvring the Ioffe so as to cause it minimal disturbance.  It was a thrill to enjoy, and you could clearly see the dappled pattern of its steely grey back, its tiny dorsal fin, and cascades of water running off every time it surfaced. Its blow guard was immense, as was the blow.   At one point a Wandering Albatross was just above the back of the whale as it surfaced – the longest winged bird above the largest mammal.  What a photo!  Eventually we set back on course and the WildWings group repaired to the bar for a swift glass of champagne to celebrate with.  The rest of the morning had a faint but discernable rosy tint.

Immediately after lunch, some 50 miles further on, more whales were spotted and as we saw them again it was with a sense of disbelief that we identified three more Blue Whales.  We approached slowly and were soon getting terrific views of them too, before realising that we had entered a very special area indeed, as whale blows of large rorquals could be seen everywhere.  People were pointing here there and everywhere, and cries of “those ones are definitely blues too” was heard.  “Over here, these ones are Fins…” “over there,  those are Humpbacks”, “starboard side – Sei Whales!! “  “dolphins with the Sei Whales..”  “Hourglass Dolphins bowriding the Sei Whale at 3 o’clock! “  “More Hourglass just on the starboard bow…”  “ Wow, Blue Whale under the starboard bridge wing..”  “Hourglass Dolphins just in front of it…”   “What are those whales over that at 9.30…”  “and those,  close at 11 o’clock”…. In fact name any o’clock – there were whales EVERYWHERE – if you waited for the ones that you just saw to come up again, you saw yet more in the same field of view – and I mean binocular field of view! “ Southern Rights, 3 o’clock”  You did not know where to look next..  It was continuous pandemonium on the decks and the bridge – with people pointing every which way… running from one side to the other, cameras out, cameras forgotten about, cameras out of memory, cursing of missed opportunities, exclamations of delight at the next…  “beaked whale – port bow.” This mayhem continued for a couple of hours - it seemed like forever.  Finally the Expedition Leader and the captain concluded that it really was time to set course again for South Georgia.. We were all exhausted and exhilarated.  Counting was impossible, we tried of course, and came up with 12-18 Blues, 6+Fins, 10+Sei, 5+Humpbacks, 2 Southern Rights and 1 beaked whale spp as well as many unidentified whales.  We concluded that this mixed group easily consisted of 60-80 individuals, possibly many more.

 Despite all our whale watching we were still making good time and were on course for arriving in South Georgia the next day.

Day 10:  South Georgia –Prion Island, Bay of Isles and Possession Bay

We were soon approaching our appointment with one of the jewels of the planet – South Georgia.   By late morning we were heading into the Bay of Isles where we disembarked at Prion Island after lunch.  The pebble beach was incredible, covered with Fur Seal pups playing at being tough, and accompanied by Gentoo and King Penguins.  South Georgia Pipits flew here and there, and South Georgia Pintail too.  Overhead Southern Giant Petrels, Black-browed, Light-mantled Sooty and most majestic of all several Wandering Albatross all cruised by.  Following a small gully inland we climbed up onto the top of this low tussocky island to view the spectacle of Wandering Albatross at the nest.  Huge birds, majestic in flight yet somewhat ungainly on land, they still have an amazing ability to impress and it is truly a wonderful experience to be able to visit them here   Indeed we had a magical time watching several nesting Wandering Albatrosses, and witnessed some display action too.  To see their 10 foot plus wingspan close up, and their massive bills and bodies too, is truly to gain a new appreciation of this magnificent bird.  With only part of the group allowed on shore at a time, we ensured that we had an absolutely minimal impact.  We also saw some nesting Southern Giant Petrels too.   Let’s hope that the pressures of long-line fishing and other exploitation of the seas does not cause the albatross and other tubenoses become extinct within a few years.  The future is a very uncertain place for them.

We headed east.into Possesion Bay where the rugged scenery and strong winds combined to provide a dramatic late afternoon spectacle with albatrosses cutting the wind and penguins and Fur Seals riding in the choppy water. We headed yet further east over dinner.

Day 11: South Georgia – Fortuna Bay, Leith and Stromness, & Grytviken

Very early, as the sun rose, we entered Fortuna Bay. Above the mountains dramatic lenticular clouds were tinged rose-pink by the sun, but they heralded strong winds so we did not attempt to land our long-hikers for their pre-breakfast “in memory of Shackelton walk” and instead headed round the corner by ship to Leith Harbour instead.  There we got into the Zodiacs and cruised slowly along the shore close to the abandoned whaling station.  South Georgia Shags and Antarctic Fur Seals gave excellent views.  We landed beyond the whaling station and had a short stroll, taking many photos as we went, of the scenery, and of the Elephant Seals, Fur Seals and the lush vegetation. We then sailed around into the next bay and admired the remains of the Stromness whaling station where Sir Ernest Shackelton (“the boss”) finally found help.

We had a reading on the foredeck in praise of “the boss” and lingered close inshore (the captain was able to get us within a couple of hundred metres or so) before we sailed to Cumberland Bay to spend the rest of the day at Grytviken.  Here we put ashore and paid our respects at Sir Ernest Shackelton’s grave before exploring the area. This involved a reading by our valiant Expedition leader, David, followed by a tot of rum, with the bottom of each glass poured onto the grave. Afterward, whilst most headed straight for the whaling station – recently refurbished, and the museum and post office, some of the WildWings group joined me on a walk to Horse Head.  We enjoyed the magnificent views (amongst my favourite anywhere) and the wildlife, including nesting Antarctic Terns and Brown Skuas. Below us, in the river that flowed from the glacier there were moulting King Penguins with several Southern Elephant Seals. The loud bellowing of the latter echoed around the bay.  Back at Grytviken we were able to stroll around the whaling station and reflect on its sordid past. The small museum goes from strength to strength, with new bird exhibits particularly well displayed.  We were able buy postcards and stamps, and send them home, some sending themselves a card to have a great reminder of the trip, and doubtless to see how long it would take – several weeks for sure.

Day 12: South Georgia: Gold Harbour & Cooper Bay

We awoke en route to Gold Harbour and immediately after breakfast we headed ashore for one of the best mornings of the entire trip.  The scene was truly spectacular with a black sand beach absolutely teeming with wildlife.  As we stepped out of the Zodiacs,  scores, maybe hundreds of King Penguins waddled up to inspect us as we landed.  It was a dream world, and many took a long time to get more than a few yards from the Zodiacs.  However the spectacle of the huge King Penguin rookery awaited us we crested the beach.  All adjectives fail in describing the scene.  Tens of thousands of King Penguins, crowded together in a myriad of orange, black and white, issuing greetings and display calls that filled the air with a crescendo of noise.  Amongst the adults were many year old youngsters, almost at fledging – with just a few still in their brown down, others nearly fully moulted, and moulting adults too, as well as others on eggs or recently hatched chicks.  Every stage was visible – even copulation was filmed.    So much to see. Southern Elephant Seals, lying in moulting huddles, young males having mock fights, Antarctic Fur Seals charging around in the shallows, and Gentoo Penguins in large numbers too, plus Southern Giant Petrels, Snowy Sheathbills, and Brown Skuas all giving great views whilst Light-mantled Sooty Albatrosses wheeled overhead..  Everywhere you looked there was something different going on, it was truly sensory overload.  With the morning sun over our shoulder, and a backdrop of glaciers and mountains to die for, it was truly a magical morning. You expected David Attenborough to appear from behind a low rise, extolling the place and its wildlife. To describe it in words would be too difficult – enough to say it was incredible. Too soon however it was time to leave, and we were back on board in time for lunch and setting sail south eastwards towards the eastern end of South Georgia.

We found a sheltered spot and, those who wished to, were able to land with ease, close to a Macaroni Penguin colony.  We scrambled up the hill, through tussocks that were the resting areas for many Fur Seals, before we got to the edge of the rookery. The scene, of the calling Macaronis and the backdrop, combined for another great landing.  Although not a huge number of pairs compared to the King Penguin rookeries we had seen – probably there were just a thousand or so pairs here, but what they lacked in numbers they certainly made up in volume!  The Macaronis were definitely our noisiest penguin yet, and very pugnacious looking with their gold crests too.  Again Light-mantled Sooty Albatrosses cruised low past us, and Snowy Sheathbills were omnipresent, attending every feeding session in the hope of picking up some spilt food.  The Brown Skuas however wandered around somewhat aimlessly as the penguin chicks were now too well grown for them.  We headed back to the beach, with everyone getting a bit of a Zodiac cruise en route back to the ship. We were able to spot the first Chinstrap Penguins of the voyage from their Zodiacs, and one group of them on a small iceberg give us particularly great views and photographs.  We headed back to the ship.  It had been a fantastic afternoon.

Back on board we sailed around specially protected Cooper Island and marvelled the vast Macaroni Penguin and Black-browed Albatross colonies.  Soon we were effectively at the south-eastern tip of South Georgia, at the mouth of Drygalski Fjord.  Inside the fjord the weather was calm and we navigated all the way to the glacier at the head, before turning round and heading for the South Orkneys.  Snow Petrel was the bird of the evening!

Day 13: At sea

Still many albatrosses, giant petrels, and other warmer water seabirds, but it was getting decidedly colder as we headed south.  The day was certainly enjoyed by sea watchers and also by those wanting a quieter, relaxing day to let the wonders of South Georgia sink in before we got to Antarctica.  The Expedition Leader and captain had decided to head for the South Orkneys – which would doubtless result in us seeing many more icebergs and perhaps wildlife too (than if we headed for Elephant Island.) Both destinations offer little chance of landing.

Day 14:  Orcadas Station, Laurie Island, South Orkneys

We awoke to a seascape that defied the imagination.  Tabular icebergs of all shapes and sizes were apparently blocking our route south.  As every minute passed yet more came into view, each one unique in some fascinating way. Camera shutters were rarely still, and it was with great respect that we marvelled with hushed voices on the bridge as the Captain and his officers expertly threaded their way through the veritable maze.  We slid into the bay in front of the station, and got into the Zodiacs.   On shore the Fur Seals were extremely numerous, carefully spaced over pretty much the entire beach and areas around the base. We had an interesting tour of the base before some free time to explore and take photographs.  The Chinstrap Penguins posed for photos.  Highlight of the day for most was definitely the icebergs, both before arrival and again after departure. It was thrilling to be in this ice-choked approach to Antarctica – and very different from “simply” crossing the Drake Passage.

Day 15: At sea - approaching Antarctica

Another fantastic iceberg filled day – along with exceptional numbers of Antarctic and Snow Petrels – both very much a bonus of being here towards the end of the Austral summer. Several Orcas before dinner were another highlight.  At one point the radar showed over 180 icebergs ahead of us in the next 10 miles!  The captain was in charge on the bridge, with the chief mate and 1^st officer manning the radars, and the 2^nd officer at the helm, we deftly navigated past these castles in the ocean, our cameras recording many of them.  These bergs have come from the ice-shelves in the Weddell Sea, and based upon our sightings – we can certainly see how it is nicknamed iceberg alley.  Weather was fine and it was with some expectation that we settled into bed – tomorrow, the Antarctic Peninsula!

Day 16: Paulet Island, Antarctic Sound, Brown Bluff Antarctic Peninsula

The morning landing was at the volcanic island of Paulet, where scudding clouds and sleet squalls made for an Antarctic morning. The weather improved through our stay and we enjoyed seeing a few Adelie Penguins and chicks, the remains of the Nordensjold expedition refuge hut, many Antarctic Shags, and some fabulous seascapes of bergy bits and penguins riding them.  We then headed west into the Antarctic Sound.

The Antarctic continent emerged before us, its mountains covered in glaciers, its shoreline invisible for the ice-cliffs that run mile after mile, almost without relief.  It is truly mind-boggling and a wondrous sight.  By mid afternoon we are approaching Brown Bluff, a large beige cliff, bisected and surrounded by glaciers. At its foot there are some nesting Gentoo and Adélie Penguins on a small beach.  Amazing icebergs covered in rocks and Antarctic Shags as we approached. 

One of the highlights of the day was seeing the Adelie Penguins riding the icebergs, and on more than one occasion, watching them leap from the swirling waves onto the slippery slopes, sometimes clawing their way up, other times repeatedly failing and slipping back into the water.  A real spectator show.

Day 17: Mikkelsen Harbour and Curtis Bay

Morning saw us approaching Mikkelsen Harbour on the south side of Trinity Island.  The early morning mist soon cleared to reveal the island and several Humpback Whales.  Into the zodiacs we headed to the island, delayed en route by an amazing encounter with several Leopard Seals around a small bergy bit (technical jargon for a piece of ice that is smaller than an iceberg, and bigger than brash ice – as all those who attended the lecture on ice will remember. However the rest of us that stayed out on deck looking at the wildlife will be forgiven for not remembering.)  The Leopard Seals were within inches of the Zodiacs, making repeated passes as they toyed with us – not in a threatening way, or so it seemed to us anyway, but more in exuberance and play.  Their huge heads and long sinewy bodies were dramatic to behold, and we revelled in the good views.  We stayed fifteen minutes or so, until it was time to finally go ashore. We enjoyed a great time with Gentoo Penguins and their chicks, as well as several skuas, mainly South Polars.  On the beach there were several Antarctic Fur Seals and a couple of Weddell Seals too.  The small refuge hut here provided a windbreak not only for us but also for many of the Gentoo Penguin chicks.  As always plenty of photo and filming opportunities before it was time to head back to the ship on a slightly splashy ride as the wind had increased.

Back on board we recharged batteries (literally and metaphorically) over lunch as we sailed south to nearby Curtis Bay on the coast of the Antarctic Peninsula.

The captain took the Ioffe right into the bay, and positioned us close to the extensive brash ice that filled the back of the bay. Positioning the ship to give us some ice-free water to launch the Zodiacs into, we were soon in amongst the ice and cruising towards a towering glacier on the opposite side of the bay. Indeed all side of the bay were faces of ice, there was nowhere to land here, even if we wanted to. Antarctic Terns, Leopard Weddell Crabeater and even an Elephant Seal were stars of the afternoon. In the pleasant conditions and unbelievable scenery and seascape it was an idyllic time.  Back on board we left the bay and continued our voyage further south.

Day 18 Cuverville Island, Neko Harbour, Paradise, Neumayer & Port Lockroy.

Overnight we cruised slowly down the Gerlache Strait, to arrive close to Cuverville Island in good time for our landing after breakfast.  Those of us that were up early savoured the tranquillity of the early morning, scoping the penguins, seals and skuas and photographing the views from the wonderfully stable decks of the Ioffe.  The Polar Star icebreaker steamed by just before breakfast, on its way south.

Setting off in the Zodiacs we were distracted from heading straight to shore by great views of Crabeater Seals on ice floes, and yet more great photos – then to shore.  Landing on a pebbly beach we were greeted by hordes of Gentoo Penguins, some of them posing on a whale vertebrae.  Skuas wheeled overhead, a few Fur Seals lounged near the water, and everywhere the backdrop was of fantastic jagged peaks, their shoulders cloaked in ice hundreds of feet thick, tortured by crevasses as it spilled at a snails pace towards the water below. 

On an almost mirror calm sea, decorated by icebergs everywhere, we spotted a Humpback whale or two, and with our radio directed Bill’s Zodiac, the first to leave the beach, he was able to show several of the group the most fantastic close and peaceful views of a gentle leviathan – a Humpback Whale.  At times it was only a few metres from the Zodiac, quietly eyeing its occupants who all marvelled at their luck

The whale was more than curious, giving prolonged frequent views to those fortunate enough to be in the right place at the right time.  On shore a xanthomorphic gentoo posed for pictures before returning to the water.  The morning had been a long one – yet was it really already over and time to head back to the Ioffe for a barbecue lunch on the aft deck as we sailed south down the scenic Errera channel.  More Humpacks were spotted – and the day was not yet over. 

The BBQ lunch was idyllic, with a gentle steam south down Errara Channel with its magnificent scenery, and colonies of mountaineering Gentoos (well, they do walk a long way up from the beach!), and thence east into Andvord Bay where we were greeted by Minke Whales galore. Seemed you could not avoid seeing them every time you lifted your binoculars.

We headed to Neko Harbour - not really a harbour as such – it offers a safe anchorage however and a chance to land at a Gentoo Penguin colony.  We had a very pleasant time onshore, with the Gentoos, a couple of Antarctic Shags, and an opportunity to walk up the hill and enjoy the view.  We followed this with another excellent Zodiac cruise – with lots of Crabeater Seals, reports of  phantom Minkes,  plus a couple of minor iceberg calvings.  There was plenty of icebergs and brash ice to cruise amongst and take more great photos of.  Finally back to ship but the day was not done yet.  The weather was opening up very nicely and the true splendours of Antarctic were revealing themselves in what could only be described as a “brochure” evening.

As we sailed effortlessly over the calm water, the scenery was inspiring, both close to, and with views of Mount Francais over 25 miles away on Anvers Island, across the Gerlache.

The Expedition Leader and the captain decided to cruise through Paradise Harbour and it was fantastic. Penguins “porpoising” through the mirror calm water, bergs and bergy bits dwarfed by the mountains and glaciers that were the backdrop. And yet more Minke Whales breaking the surface!  Happy Hour was switched from the bar to the foredeck and it was a terrible thing to tear oneself away from this stunning evening.  Several of us didn’t!

Out into Gerlache again – drop dead gorgeous light – and yet more Minkes, playing hide and seek.  Into the hidden channel – the Neumayer - mirror calm and sunset pinks. 

Finally into Port Lockroy – time to “post” Rod Downie’s camera back to him.  He is currently the British Antarctic Survey base commander at King Edward Point, South Georgia – one of our passengers (not one of the WildWings group I must point out) had picked up a camera at Grytviken thinking it had been abandoned by a fellow passenger! Wrong!  Too late we realised but we made arrangements with a yacht that was on the Antarctic Peninsula, to rendezvous and pass on the camera to them as they were eventually heading to South Georgia.  Tonight was that rendezvous.

Day 19: Lemaire Channel, Pleneau Island, Port Charcot Booth Island and Petermann Island.

We awoke still in Port Lockroy, to a beautiful and near cloudless morning.  Fresh ice covered the sea and the first rays of the sun made the peaks of Anvers Island glow.  Mount Francais at 9,258 feet and only a few miles away was the first.  Most of the WildWings group were on deck long before breakfast, taking photo after photo in the gorgeous rich light of dawn as it slowly lit the mountain tops to our west.  It was downright gorgeous, one of the most evocative mornings that Antarctica could offer. 

We set sail and headed towards the Lemaire Channel. 

The seas were glassy calm, and those of us who lingered the most briefly at the breakfast buffet were able to spot a Humpback Whale logging on the surface, many rafts of porpoising Gentoo Penguins, and the first of many scores of  a Crabeater Seals on an ice floes, giving great views of their doglike snouts and typically scarred flanks.  Into the Lemaire Channel and it was stunning as we glided past the ice covered cliffs to reach the southern end.

We headed downstairs to the Zodiacs again and headed off amongst the icebergs.  Several boats found a group of playful Crabeater Seals that entertained us for ages as they frolicked around an ice floe, within inches of our boats.  The icebergs were amazing to be cruising amongst, and seemed all the bigger with us being so close to the water. Once ashore on Booth Island we had a steep if fairly short climb up a rocky slope to a low ridge where there was a colony of Gentoo Penguins.  Amazing to watch them patiently climb the hill from the beach to reach their youngster, and more comical to watch them run (and occasionally stumble) on their way back down.  Once we were all back on board we set sail yet further south to our final stop, Petermann Island.  Here we enjoyed finding a few Adelie Penguins and many Gentoos, and some of us watched a terrific struggle between a Gentoo chick and a South Polar Skua that did not manage to kill it in an attack that lasted 45 minutes or more.  We left an adult Gentoo standing guard.  Who knows the end result.

Several Antarctic Shags and their well grown chicks posed on the rocks for some final great pictures with yet more stunning backdrops.  Finally it was time to leave, and the last boat to ship carried the last members of the WildWings group.  We really did not want to go! The shortening days and the penguins gathering on the beaches signalled that winter was arriving and anyway, for us it was time to head north.

Before dinner there was a toast and an auction to raise money for the Save the Albatross campaign.  Seemingly insignificant memorabilia raised substantial amounts for this good cause, with the most popular item being an autographed ship’s chart.  Every successful bidder received a free entry into a draw for a free trip for two to the Arctic.  The auction and the subsequent donations raised a total of over US$8,000 - well done everyone.

Days 20 & 21: Drake Passage

We were out in the famed (even dreaded) Drake Passage, heading almost due north, and what weather would it herald? Well, as is so often the case, it was not at all rough, and as usual it was a great time to watch seabirds in comfort, go to the lectures or simply relax.    The numerous seabirds were mainly now familiar friends – Wandering, Royal, Grey-headed and Black-browed Albatrosses, as well as Southern Giant Petrels, Cape Petrels, Antarctic Fulmar, Soft-plumaged Petrel, a single Blue Petrel, Wilson’s and Black-bellied Storm Petrels, and Common and Magellanic Diving Petrels.  As we rounded Cape Horn there was still good sea-birding, with Sooty Shearwaters, a phalarope – probably Red-necked, Chilean Skuas, Rockhopper and Magellanic Penguins as well as many Black-browed Albatrosses still, and some Peale’s Dolphins.  Our first Rock Cormorants for weeks signalled we were close to land again, even though the Chileans would not allow us within 12 nautical miles of the cape.  The farewell dinner was followed by a quiet passage west through the Beagle Channel overnight.

Day 22: Ushuaia

We arrived in Ushuaia on an idyllic calm and totally cloudless morning. Photos of the town before breakfast were excellent.  After heading to the dining room for the last time we bade fond farewells to the staff and crew, and disembarked at 8 a.m.  I organised a minibus and driver for those interested in a morning’s birding (the entire group) and we headed off the docks, and explored the environs of the town.  High on the list was a desire to see White-throated Caracara – a localised species for which there are few sites.  We had no trouble in finding it, along with Southern and Chimango Caracaras, and had excellent views of all three as well as many other waterfront birds such as Kelp Geese, Crested Ducks, Flightless Steamer Ducks, Baird’s and White-rumped Sandpipers, Rufous-chested Dotterel, Rock Shags and distant views of our last Black-browed Albatrosses of the trip. We had some spare time in town for lunch / souvenir shopping before our afternoon flight. 

The flight to Buenos Aires was uneventful and after checking in to the Hotel Bristol we headed out for an excellent and thoroughly enjoyable celebratory meal.

Day 23: Buenos Aires

After an early breakfast those that had opted to go to Costanera joined our guide and we headed down to the reserve.  Unfortunately a violent stormy morning greeted us, with heavy rainsqualls tearing limbs off the trees, so we let discretion be the better part of valour and beat a retreat to the hotel where we regaled our guide with tales of our trip.  There was some free time to do some shopping or relax before Maria turned up punctually and the bus soon afterwards and we made our way to the international airport. The trip was drawing to a close.  We made our final goodbyes and headed for check-in, the departure lounge and the overnight flight home.

Day 24: Arrival home – Finally we have time to relax and look over the pictures of what has been a truly memorable trip with a great group of people. We had all looked out for each other, and pointed out so many things that sometimes we would not know which way to look! Well, perhaps not, not until the next time. Meanwhile, time to enjoy some fabulous memories.