Day 1 March 28th
The day started early for some of the group as we visited a variety of habitats near San Diego and observed over ninety species of birds. About a third of these, including the near endemic California Thrasher and Wrentit, would not be seen on the Baja cruise itself. Those that were less “bird driven” relaxed around the hotel pool or enjoyed some of San Diego’s sights before boarding the Spirit of Adventure. Naturalists Scot Anderson and David Wimpfheimer greeted the group and then gave us an orientation to our upcoming adventure. Shortly before 10:00 pm, the Spirit weighed anchor and we departed on our voyage of discovery. A short stop at the bait tanks gave us great views of pelicans, Great Blue Herons, Great Egrets, Black-crowned Night Herons and California Sea Lions. We were tired, but excited about our upcoming adventure. The lights of Tijuana and Mexico beckoned in the distance. We cruised past Point Loma and then continued south.

Day 2 March 29th
After a calm night of running, we cleared customs at Ensenada and enjoyed our first breakfast on the way to Todos Santos. Before we reached this rocky island, we saw five Pacific White-sided Dolphins. Their distinctive two-toned falcate dorsal fins helped identify them. This is a cold water species and usually not seen any further south than Northern Baja. The island is perfect habitat for Harbour Seals and we saw many with young pups from our skiff rides. Additionally we saw a group of nesting Brandt's Cormorants. Their bright blue gular pouches were particularly colourful. Because it was low tide, we could see lots of bright sea stars and sea urchins. We also had lucky views of a large jellyfish called Pelagia; it had a large bell and beautiful purple stripes. Black Oystercatcher, a dramatic wader with a bright orange bill and Wandering Tattler were some of the birds seen at the water’s edge. As we continued cruising to the south, we saw several groups of Common Dolphins that swam in and rode our bow waves almost at arm’s reach. A yellowish hourglass pattern on their flanks was a key field mark and most of us were even able to hear their high squealing vocalizations.

During the afternoon, we relaxed and got used to the rhythms of being at sea. The attentive birders on the higher deck picked out Pink-footed and Sooty Shearwaters form the much more abundant Black-vented. For hours David threw bits of crackers and bread overboard luring in a mostly Western Gulls, but at least one stocky Pomarine Skua came barreling through the birds following the boat. Finally, just before sunset the reward for his chumming came soaring by the boat. It was a Black-footed Albatross, its seven-foot wingspan just shearing above the waves. This day was truly an auspicious beginning to our journey. .



Day 3 March 30th
We woke to a foggy morning, but calm seas. Soon we were at anchor at West San Benitos Island and began our exploration on foot. The abalone and lobster fishing season was over and we walked by empty houses towards the North side of the Island. The sole inhabitant was a Mexican seabird biologist who told us about his research on Cassin’s Auklets. He removed a bird from a nesting burrow and showed us this tiny relative of the puffin. Soon we were at a beach covered with dozens of Northern Elephant Seals. Now, after the breeding season, we were thrilled seeing recently weaned “weaners” and sub adult animals that had returned here to molt. Many Osprey added to our exploration of the island. We counted over twenty nests, many occupied, and it was a joy to be so close to these stunning raptors. Some of the group took the longer hike to the lighthouse where we also saw most of the plant species that are endemic to the island. The bright purple flowers of the San Benitos Mallow were quite striking against the brown metamorphic rocks. Large numbers of Agaves were also in bloom and challenged us photographically.

In the afternoon, we motored over to the east island and then took skiff rides to see a group of Guadalupe Fur Seals. The calm sea conditions allowed us to get very close to these beautiful, playful animals. We learned that their numbers are now expanding after hunting had brought them near extinction in the early 20th century. About an hour after leaving the islands we saw three Fin Whales very well, particularly the white, lower right jaw which helped identify them from similar “finner” whales. Seabirds were observed as well; a Laysan Albatross and an extremely cooperative Red-billed Tropicbird that allowed us to approach very close before flying off. Its amazingly long tail feathers practically hovered only metres from us.

Day 4 March 31st
We arrived at San Ignacio Lagoon at daybreak. Mike, our skipper, carefully entered the lagoon through a narrow channel with many Gray Whales passing near us. Shortly after anchoring in this magical place our skiff drivers Luis, Alvaro and Federico arrived. During our stay in this International Biosphere Preserve, they showed tremendous skill operating their pangas and knowledge about the inhabitants of this sanctuary. All the whales we encountered were cow calf pairs getting ready to head north on their migration to northern feeding areas. We all encountered friendly whales and experienced the unique treat of reaching out to touch a whale! What was particularly remarkable was the way the calves, and some mothers, sought our company as much as the other way around. In the evening Scot gave us a talk on Gray Whales to help us appreciate these amazing animals more fully.

Day 5 April 1st
Shortly after sunrise, we enjoyed a panga ride into the mangroves that grow along a tidal slough. There were excellent views of Yellow-crowned Night Heron, Reddish Egrets and White Ibis. Large groups of Marbled Godwits and Willets stood in the marsh as we silently glided by. We were especially lucky to see a species that is normally elusive, the small, but colorful Mangrove Warbler. Several perched on branches, singing loudly. We returned to the main part of the lagoon where we enjoyed more close encounters with Gray Whales and Bottlenose Dolphins. After lunch, most of us had final experiences with the whales. The naturalists led two different shore excursions where groups saw Sanderling, Redhead, Blue-winged Teal and Caspian Terns. The later were quite noisy, emitting their distinctive raspy call. The beach group found a truly wild place littered with a myriad of shells, dolphin and whale bones. As we left the lagoon through the narrow and turbulent channel we realized that we had been treated to a special and unique experience; to see, and feel so many whales and to witness an amazing variety of behaviors: spyhopping, breaching, lobtailing and friendly behavior. We listened to their sounds, were doused by their blows and even collected some whale lice. There were some bumpy seas as we headed south, but most of us still excitedly recounted our experiences over a huge steak dinner.



Day 6 April 2nd
We started our day with a loud voice “first call for breakfast, two Blue Whales off the bow.” There were, as well as Laysan and Black-footed Albatross. While the Laysan nest on Guadalupe Island in Baja, the Black-footed make foraging trips to our coast from Midway Island, 1500 miles west of the main part of Hawaii. We were cruising off the outer shores of Magdalena Bay. Several Pacific Ridley Sea Turtle were seen. One was hiding in kelp in wonderfully calm seas. After we photographed the turtles, one just below the bow, Mike found a pair of Orcas. One, a female, grabbed some floating kelp and took it down. Why? These two were boat shy so we let them be.

Other cetaceans were in these waters, Humpbacks, Bryde’s and more Blue whales. The latter are a highlight any time; today we would see seven. By late afternoon, we cruised by thousands and thousands of Pelagic Red Crabs, probably food for all those hungry whales. Eileen said they looked like “Spiders from Mars,” only they were quite wondrous when we examined them up close. We ended the day in a pink, orange sunset with a cow calf pair of Blue Whales. The little one, maybe 10m, zoomed around the boat while Mom, maybe 26m lunged at krill, a few times right by the boat.

Day 7 April 3rd
Another incredible day started with Dan’s (the cook) huevos rancheros. We were off the southern tip of Baja and soon looking at Humpback whales, Bottlenose and Common Dolphins. While we were relaxing after that whale watching, we heard Captain Mike’s voice over the PA, “Whale Shark!” We all rushed to the railing were we first saw a massive, very rounded fin, but that was not the whole show. Soon we saw the whole body of this huge fish, the world’s largest, lying close to the boat, the water washing over its huge back. For over half an hour we had this amazing animal right near the boat. Scot and David had never seen one before on their many Baja trips.

Just before anchoring at Los Frailles, we saw a large splashing and soon we were delighted to see a Humpback put on a wonderful breaching show. From the sound of clicking shutters, its one we will remember for a long time. After anchoring some folks enjoyed their first views of the undersea life of Baja. While snorkeling, they saw a Moray Eel, Puffer and many other colorful fish. An extended walk showed us the desert ecosystem and we were treated to an excellent variety of birds including the endemic Xantus’ Hummingbird and Gray Thrasher. We saw woodpeckers, colorful orioles and a distant Roadrunner, although many felt the latter was just a figment of the naturalists’ imaginations!

Day 8 April 4th
Before sunrise, there was a glassy sea with thousands of Black and Least Storm Petrels. Flying quickly above the surface, they looked like butterflies. Of course, Nigel was up, he estimated that there were 5-10,000 birds. David cautiously said there were thousands out there. Mike’s only comment was, “something’s up.” After breakfast, we walked up the beautiful sandstone canyon at Punta Colorado. The many flowering shrubs and wildflowers were dramatic evidence of the hurricane rains that soaked the southern part of the peninsula last fall. A female Costa’s Hummingbird sat in a delicate nest of papery Elephant Tree bark that she had constructed. Desert Iguana, Chuckwalla and Zebra-tailed Lizards emerged after the sunshine warmed the rocky wash.

Some of us finally figured out that in good weather, watching whales and eating Dan’s cooking on the bow, is a good solution to sightings at lunch time (try that kind of whale watching in polar regions!). The “something’s up” that Mike had been suspicious of hours before turned out to be Sperm Whales. For the next three hours, we saw over a dozen of these, the largest of all toothed whales. In wonderfully clear, calm water, we especially were amazed as one huge bull sounded very close to the boat. Then there were jumping Bottlenose Dolphins and finally a Blue Whale surfacing just after sunset as the full moon rose. After dinner, David gave us a talk on seabirds.


Day 9 April 5th
Before we arrived at Isla Santa Catalina Captain Mike picked out another unusual species for us to see, False Killer Whales or Pseudorca. We watched these uncommon, sleek animals before, during and after breakfast. Scot and David were able to drop a hydrophone into the water and we marveled at the distinctive signature calls of these Odontocetes. Later in the day, we saw them again in even calmer water. The naturalists said that they had seen them only once before on a Baja trip.

This morning was our chance to see the endemic, giant Barrel Cactus. The Cardon cacti were quite photogenic on Catalina as well. Our walk up the desert was full of birds, flowers, the turquoise endemic race of Side-blotched Lizard and even two rattle-less rattlesnakes. Just as we left Catalina, the glassy sea allowed great views of many Smooth-tailed Mobulas (Mantas) gliding by the boat. Several Sabine’s Gulls flew by the boat. We were able to see their handsome and distinctive black, white and gray pattern in their wings. For most of the afternoon, the offshore Bottlenose Dolphins treated us to another great show of jumps, back flips and other acrobatics. More film and video was shot as we tried to capture their amazing antics. Appropriately, a slideshow on cetaceans followed dinner.

Day 10 April 6th
The orange light at sunrise bathed the mountains ashore while some Common Dolphins swam by the boat. It was another beautiful morning on the vermilion sea in Baja. We looked at a group of Blue-footed Boobies and went ashore at Los Dolores. After being welcomed by a very frisky dog and looking at a baleen whale skeleton we took two walks; one along the beach and the other into the desert. Both groups enjoyed their time ashore, but we had some whales to look for. A Humpback with a chewed off fluke did not capture our attention and a Blue Whale that managed to get away from us. Instead, Mike found a group of dolphins attacking a school of finger-sized sardines. Dubbed the feeding frenzy, it was amazing to watch the dolphins chase the fish from below and then the pelicans and boobies falling out of the sky pounding them from above. At the same time, Pterodactyl-like frigatebirds with six-foot wingspans hovered over our heads and chased any feeding bird they could. We visited the small village of Nopolo and saw Phainopepla, Northern Cardinal and other interesting birds. Back at the boat, we toasted our wonderful luck with margaritas before another great dinner and the close of a great day.

Day 11 April 7th
Early in the morning, we went ashore at the southern tip of Isla San Jose. As we walked along the beach, we saw many small squid that had been washed up and quite a variety of shells. Skiff rides through a forest of mangroves showed us herons, nesting Osprey and schools of fish. As the boat approached the northern end of Isla Espiritu Santu, we excitedly followed a mother Blue Whale with her calf. It was interesting to see their different dive patterns. Los Islotes is the group of volcanic rocks at the northern end of the island. Some of us took the opportunity to swim amongst friendly, but still exciting sea lions there. Skiff rides afforded great opportunities to see nursing sea lions and Brown Boobies. David picked out three downy Blue-footed Booby chicks high up on rock face. We could see them very well through the spotting scope. As we cruised further south, we saw more Blue Whales and Sperm Whales. What a great finale to a great cruise. After dinner some folks shared their highlights, and there were many, of this wonderful cruise.

Day 12 April 8th
Everyone was up early and ready to go, what a great group you all were! Mike, his crew and the naturalists made the trip a great one with the skill and care with which they showed us so many wonderful whales, animals and places. Thank you for being part of one of our best trips. Our last whales were Humpbacks that were seen just in front of the bow at sunrise. The granitic spires at land’s end, Cabo San Lucas, were a fitting exclamation point to a great trip. Passengers, naturalists and crew departed for their homes fresh with many wonderful memories.



Species list WildOceans 2004

Blue Whale
Gray Whale
Humpback
Fin Whale
Bryde’s Whale
Sperm Whale
Orca
False Killer Whale
Bottlenose Dolphin
Short-beaked Common Dolphin
Long-beaked Common Dolphin
Pacific White-sided Dolphin

Northern Elephant Seal
Harbour Seal
California Sea Lion
Guadalupe Fur Seal

Whale Shark