Trip Report by Tour Leaders:  David Wimpfheimer and Scot Anderson

Day 1 (Tuesday 28 March)

Pacific Coast - San Diego

A group joined naturalist David Wimpfheimer for a full birding tour in the varied habitats of San Diego and adjacent cities.  We tallied 102 species and it was easy to see why this area has been called “ America’s birdiest city.”  Highlights of our day included Blue-winged and Cinnamon Teal, Merlin, Black Skimmer, Acorn and Nuttall’s Woodpecker, Western and Cassin’s Kingbird, Western Bluebird, Wrentit, Townsend’s Warbler, Golden-crowned Sparrow and Tricolored Blackbird.

We boarded the Spirit of Adventure in the late afternoon.  After a warm welcome by David and Scot Anderson, we enjoyed the dinner buffet and met fellow travellers.  Later Captain Mike Keating outlined the safety features of the boat and gave us a general orientation.  We went to sleep full of anticipation for our forthcoming adventure.

Day 2  (Wednesday 29 March)

Pacific Coast - Todos Santos Island

Captain Mike’s plan to wait for the wind to die down before our departure last night, made a big difference in the ride.  Before we knew it, we were in Mexico, clearing customs at Ensenada harbour.  After breakfast, we got into the skiffs for the first time at Todos Santos Island.  In the cold, clean water were Harbour Seals with pups, some just one month old.  On the beach, we found a dozen Northern Elephant Seals and there were a few California Sea Lions on a rock nearby.  Looking at the island one could see hundreds of Western Gulls on territory.  On the cliffs near the sea, Brandt's Cormorants were nesting.  We saw one nest with three chicks, and others with large chicks begging for food.  The views we had were close enough to see the blue gular pouch that this species uses as a breeding display.  Below on the rocks were Black Oystercatchers; this dark brown bird has pink feet and a bright orange bill.

Back on the Spirit, heading south, we found a group of about a thousand Common Dolphins.  Some were feeding which brought in sea birds hovering in excitement.  At one point all the dolphins took off very fast, only to slow down a few moments later.  Farther south, we came across a group of Pacific White-sided Dolphins; these dolphins are black and white with a very short beak.  We found small groups here and there and they stayed with the boat for a long time, riding the bow waves.  In the glassy sea, one could see every detail of this beautiful animal.

We ended our first full day on the Spirit of Adventure with a pair of Fin Whales; these large baleen whales have a large dorsal fin and white lips on the right side.  As we rolled down swell, we saw Sooty Shearwaters, loads of Grey Phalaropes and Cassin’s Auklets.  Most of us were thrilled to see a Black-footed Albatross soar by the boat.

Day 3  (Thursday 30 March)

Pacific Coast – San Benitos Island

Everyone reported that they had slept much better than the first night.  Moreover, some were up at 5:30 am to watch a pretty sunrise.  In fact, some felt so well that they had a large enough appetite to eat large portions of Eggs Benedict.  Those who had missed the Black-footed Albatross yesterday were quite happy when one of these wonderfully large birds came arcing and soaring by the boat.  We cruised by the middle of the three San Benitos islands and anchored in a cove at the southern side of the western island.

At 9:30 am, we rode the skiffs in and enjoyed the first of many dry landings.  Several sub-adult Northern Elephant Seals lay on the cobble beach to greet us.  We were fascinated as they showed no avoidance and placidly accepted us as we stood only a few feet away.  The first of many, many photographs were taken.  Off to the side of this small fishing community the group gathered and heard David outline the geology of the island and the adjacent part of the Baja peninsula.  He listed the several endemic plant and animal species found on this isolated place.  Two of them, San Benitos Bush Mallow and Street’s Tarweed grew near our feet.  This remote island gets only about five inches of rainfall a year and this year it did not even receive that.  At first glance, things appeared quite barren, but there was plenty of life.  In addition to the plants, San Benitos Sparrow, an endemic sub-species of Savannah Sparrow, conspicuously sang from every perch.  Side-blotched and Western Whiptail lizards scurried underfoot.

At the southern point of the island, dozens of sub-adult and weaner Elephant Seals rested on a beach.  We learned about their reproductive natural history and their amazing population expansion from near extinction a century ago.

Some of the more ambitious hikers followed Scot up to the top of the island and on to the lighthouse.  David led a group to the eastern side of the island to see more seals and a good selection of waders; Grey Plover, Black and Ruddy Turnstone, Black Oystercatcher and American Oystercatcher.

Later in the afternoon we moved over to the east side of the East Island where we enjoyed some wonderful skiff rides.  Our guides explained that the Guadalupe Fur Seal was almost hunted to extinction.  However, unlike the Elephant Seal, this pinneped is only slowly expanding its population.  From the skiffs, we had great views of over a hundred immature seals.  They have only been seen on this island in the last few years and we were constantly entertained by their jumping, diving and wrestling antics.  Additionally the air was filled with their distinctive woof-woof-woof calls.  Although the seals were clearly the highlight of the skiff rides, we could not help but notice the incredible clarity of the water, showing us long strands of kelp and bright orange Garibaldi fish.

By 3:30 pm we were headed south again and seeing many Black-vented Shearwaters and a few Xantus’s Murrelets.  The cloudless sky to the west prompted Scot to gather everyone amidships to watch for the much-heralded green flash.  Most people admitted to actually seeing a brief, but noticeable green flash of light just after the sun dipped behind the sharp horizon.

Day 4  (Friday 31 March)

Pacific Coast – San Ignacio Lagoon

The morning sea was glassy calm with a bright warm sun.  By 7:00 am, we found some Common Dolphins feeding with diving pelicans and Western Gulls.  Just after we entered San Ignacio Lagoon we found a flock of several thousand Brandt’s Cormorants, which were flying and landing on the west side of Sand Island.  Mike quickly anchored the boat and our skiff drivers, Honas, Domingo and Gabriel, came quickly in their pangas. A cow-calf pair of Gray Whales played with the skiff while we got ready.  Most everyone had a “friendly” whale come to the boat for a scratch.  Unbelievable as it may be this friendly cetacean was once hunted here, and were known as “devilfish.”  Now, the cow-calf pairs come to our boats and the calves seem to enjoy the contact.

After lunch and a short rest, we headed out again.  It was very windy and rough.  We saw Gray Whales here and there, some close, some far, but it all seemed to blow away in the spray and wind.  There were good views of the near shore form of the Bottlenose Dolphins, sometimes coming to the skiffs and bow riding.  Royal Terns and Brown Pelicans dove into the lagoon trying to catch the smelt that were near the surface.

Back at the Spirit, it was time for tea and a hot shower!  Scot gave a talk on gray whales.  We all went to bed hoping that the wind would stop for tomorrow.

Day 5  (Saturday 1 April)

Pacific Coast – San Ignacio Lagoon

Most folks were up long before the sun rose over San Ignacio lagoon.  It was still windy, but we enjoyed seeing different behaviors of Gray Whales on our first panga rides.  Many whales lifted their heads out of the water.  We were not sure if they were actually looking right at us in this ‘spy hopping’ behavior.  Even a few calves joined in and raised their heads out of the water.  We also saw several adults jumping clear out of the water, breaching.

In mid-morning we took a break from whale watching to visit a tidal slough bordered by mangroves.  While these tropical trees were not as tall as some passengers had seen in other parts of the tropics, they still provide vital and productive habitat.  From our three pangas we were sheltered from the wind.  We heard and saw many birds.  The most obvious were Reddish Egret, White Ibis, Tri-colored Heron, Yellow-crowned Night Heron and Little Blue Heron.  Waders include Long-billed Curlew, Willet and Greater Yellowlegs.  Two elusive species, the Clapper Rail and Mangrove Warbler (a sub-species of Yellow Warbler) were heard, but not seen.

By lunch, the wind had died down completely.  A few mothers brought their calves close to the Spirit affording us wonderful views of these cetaceans.  Our rides in the afternoon were memorable.  We encountered not just playful calves, but mothers as well.  What a fantastic treat to have these 40-ton animals swim up to our boats and wait to be petted and scratched.  David and Scot reminded us why this is such a special place.  It was not hard to see why.  Gray Whales were not the only animals in the lagoon.  We loved seeing the Bottlenose Dolphins come cruising by our skiffs.  Pacific and Great Northern Divers were in breeding plumage and hundreds of Black Brant filled the air, apparently staging for their passage north.

We said farewell to our Mexican panga drivers who had expertly brought us to arm’s reach of so many whales and then left the lagoon through the narrow channel.  Many Gray Whales, all cow-calf pairs were also in the swells.  They were leaving as well, but they had a much longer journey to the north ahead of them.  We turned south into the ocean waves.

Day 6  (Sunday 2 April)

Pacific Coast – Magdalena Bay

The ocean was a little bumpy this morning.  We awoke as the boat rolled south.  In the early morning light, we saw hundreds of Gray Phalaropes in flocks heading north over the waves.  We also found Pink-footed, Black-vented and Sooty Shearwaters, as well as one Pomarine Skua and a small group of Common Dolphin.

At about 9:30 am Mike and the crew spotted a Blue Whale, which we followed north (up swell - hang on!).  This whale was in a big hurry and we found a pair of Blue Whales near by, so we went to look at them instead.  This was more what we wanted; you could see the two whales through the water as they swam slowly at the surface, blowing.  Seeing the whales through the water one could almost see the whole length.  Scot and David estimated the length at 25 metres each!  One of the whales was diving deep and would put its flukes high up in the air before it dived.

We enjoyed the afternoon with a book or a nap as we continued to head down swell.  At about 3:00 pm we found a tight group of about 300 Common Dolphins.  In the water were little, bright red animals called Pelagic Red Crabs.  As the day wore on, we had more Common Dolphins come and ride the bow, in the calm warm seas.

Day 7  (Monday 3 April)

Sea of Cortez – Los Frailles

Dawn found us just east of Cabo nearing an undersea mount called the Gorda Bank.  Some claimed to have seen the green flash as the sun bumped up over the horizon.  Our guides said that was certainly possible, and now there was another attraction to look for.  Everyone saw the Humpback Whales.  Initially there were three: a mother and calf and an “escort” that we were told was usually a male.  There was some conversation as to whether the escort was the actual father or not.  We learned that baleen whales typically do not have much of a family life.  There was no disagreement that Dan’s Huevos Rancheros were also a special way to start the day.  All this occurred before 7:00 am!

In wonderfully calm seas, we saw several groups of Common Dolphins.  A Laysan Albatross flew by and even though it was some distance from us, its 7-foot wingspan was unmistakable.  This was an unusual location for this pelagic species.  More expected here, but no less appreciated was a Red-billed Tropicbird.  A Franklin’s Gull and Pomarine Skua were also observed.  The invertebrates that Scot and Marjorie caught also demanded our attention:  Pelagic Red Crabs, Salp and Ctenophores.  Many of us tried to photograph the latter, a stunning spherical jellyfish that flashed different colors of the rainbow.

Many of us had seen Humpbacks before, since they are found in all the oceans.  Our guides explained that they are the most acrobatic of all whales, showing more varied behaviors than any other species.  No one dreamed that for the next two hours we would witness them all!  Captain Mike announced over the PA that there was a whale breaching in the distance.  After motoring closer and some anxious moments, we soon had our breaching, wacky whale.  The whale had many barnacles on its pectoral flippers and was much scarred which seemed to indicate that it was an older individual, but it clearly was not a large adult.  It showed us a predictable pattern of slapping its pectoral flippers, fluking and spouting, in between lunging out of the water.  There were many opportunities to photograph this whale that our first mate, Brian, named Goofy.

We wondered how Goofy might behave with the other Humpbacks off in the distance.  After an hour and a half solo act, four of these whales came over to us.  Quickly Goofy thrashed his tail and fluke in the direction of the biggest “intruder.”  The noticeably bigger whale lob tailed back at Goofy only once.  Goofy continued his lob tailing, clearly the victor here.

The Spirit anchored in the lee of the north wind below the granitic rocky point known as Los Frailles.  Some of the group had their first chance to see some of the Sea of Cortez’s underwater life by snorkelling here.  David announced that this was one of our best birding spots and Tony, Graham and Kaj joined him while the afternoon temperatures were still quite warm.  Someone muttered a line about mad dogs, Englishmen and birders!  Scot later brought the rest of the group at a saner, cooler time of the day.  In this dramatic desert landscape amongst Cardon and Organ Pipe Cactus, we saw Northern Cardinal, Pyrrhuloxia, Gila Woodpecker, Hooded and Scott’s Oriole.  The many birds that we enjoyed seeing included two of Baja’s endemic species; the somewhat drab Gray Thrasher and the bright, red-billed Xantus’s Hummingbird.  We enjoyed a great dinner at anchor after a wonderfully full day, before heading north into the Gulf of California.

Day 8  (Tuesday 4 April)

Sea of Cortez – San Jose Island

The day started with a glassy sea, a bright sunrise, some Bottlenose Dolphins and school of “Toro” or Jack Crevalle fish flashing as they swam by feeding on sardines.  We arrived at Punta Colorado at 7:45 and quickly went ashore, where we found thousands of fossilised shells in the pink sandstone cliffs.  The bird of the day would have to be the smart looking Black-throated Sparrow.  We also saw Costa's Hummingbird, Red-tailed Hawk and Turkey Vultures hovered over the cliffs with Magnificent Frigatebirds.

Back at the Spirit, we took skiff rides and went snorkelling.  We all saw the Sally Lightfoot Crabs run across the rocks.  As soon as we pulled anchor we found dolphins, first 300 Commons and second about 500 Bottlenose which put on a great show leaping, flopping and bow riding on a glassy sea.  We stopped by a small island called Las Animas.  There were many Blue-footed and Brown Boobies on the rocks with frigatebirds, as well as nesting Brown Pelicans with chicks in their nests.

Heading to the west the sun was hot!  Mike showed us some Spiny-tailed Mobula (like a manta ray).  Their swimming, which looks more like flying, through the water and use their large wing like pectoral fins.  We found more Common Dolphins in the clear blue water which you could see remarkably well.

Several Dwarf Sperm Whales were spotted, although at a great distance, which is typical for this species.  With the boat abuzz with talk of Sperm Whales, it made sense that we would find one “real” giant Sperm Whale.  However, the one we found  was small and alone, it seemed.  It is hard to say why?  Nevertheless, it was interesting to see the wrinkly

back and the large smooth round head with the blowhole on the front left side.  We also took a listen to the whale’s

click, click, click using the hydrophone.  Later we all wished this little whale well and headed on to Santa Catalina Island were we would spend the following morning.  After dinner, David gave a slide presentation on sea birds and island endemics.

Day 9  (Wednesday 5 April)

Sea of Cortez – Santa Catalina Island

We all enjoyed the calm anchorage and were ready for an early visit to Isla Santa Catalina.  David and Scot had said that this was one of their favourite islands and we soon saw why.  Even though the dry conditions had produced few wildflowers there were many wonderful Cardon cactus adorning the rocky hillsides.  Interspersed amongst these large, multi-branching cacti was the extremely thick Giant Barrel Cactus, endemic to this and only one other island.

It was cool as we started walking up a dry wash or arroyo, but many birds were singing.  House Finches, Black-throated Sparrows and Ash-throated Flycatchers continually serenaded us.  A male and female American Kestrel seemed to lean against each other atop a tall Cardon.  A pair of Loggerhead Shrikes was prominent as well.  Those in the first group found a Ladder-backed Woodpecker and we were very appreciative to have Roger’s scope to give us views of one of North America’s smallest woodpeckers.

By 9:00 am, it was definitely getting warmer and most of the group headed back to the beach.  Some stayed longer and were rewarded with great views of some of the lizards that were now more actively soaking up the radiant heat.  Graham found a Spiny Lizard and Robin saw a Desert Iguana.  Almost everyone saw the endemic race of Side-blotched Lizard.  This turquoise coloured lizard is particularly striking.

After a mid-morning break for Dan’s fresh baked muffins and tea, it was time to go out again.  Skiff rides along this craggy volcanic shore gave us great views of Sally Lightfoot Crabs, Yellow-footed Gulls and a Wandering Tattler.  The swimmers snorkelling were not disappointed either.  There were many varied Parrotfish here and the beautiful King Angel we seen in especially large numbers.  We had clearly worked up our appetites and were rewarded with fresh fish tacos for lunch.  The timing was excellent, as most everyone had finished lunch when Sheelagh spotted the definitive tall blow of a Blue Whale.  We followed this whale for an hour getting great views of its dorsal fin and the distinctive pigmentation underneath the fin.  David explained that this is the area researchers photograph in an attempt to re-identify one of the two thousand Blue Whales that have been catalogued along the California coast.

We headed west across the gulf.  When we were south of the island of Montserrat, we encountered a small group of Bottlenose Dolphins.  They only visited our bow for a short time, but we did marvel at how high they jumped off to the side of the boat.  Mark started seeing the first of many Black Storm Petrels.  Their deep wing beats and buoyant flight helped identify them.  After turning to the south, we had the wind at our backs and the ride was considerably smoother.  The theory that prolonged scanning from the bow can be rewarded, was proven by Graham’s yelling, and soon we had everyone looking at a pair of Sabine’s Gulls, one in stunning breeding plumage.  Mike obligingly turned the boat around so everyone could get out to see these birds, certainly one of the world’s most handsome gulls.

Almost the entire group was now on the bow and it was not for a whale!  The sea bird show continued.  The first of four Pomarine Skuas flew by, showing off its long, spoon-shaped tail feathers.  A few Least Storm Petrels now joined the hundreds of Black Storm Petrels.  It was very helpful to have the two species for comparison.  As the action seemed to die down, Mark and Roger spotted a Red-billed Tropicbird sitting on the water.  Again, Mike slowed the boat and announced the bird on the PA system.  Everyone gathered on the bow as we slowly cruised up to the bird.  The thick red bill, black eye line and other features seemed to glow in the late afternoon light.  When the bird finally took flight its amazingly long central feathers flowed behind it.  Many shutters clicked and all felt blessed to see such a wondrous bird.

Although we had seen only one whale today, a much more elusive marine animal, a shark, treated us to several views.  Many of us on the bow were able to get distant, but reasonable views of this Thresher Shark jumping several times out of the water.  Even at a distance, we could see its extremely large and definitive tail.  We anchored at Tampabeche, a tranquil cove on the Baja peninsula.  Kaj and Roger were able to pick out Reddish Egret and American Oystercatchers along the shore in their scopes, but everyone was content just to watch the western sky turn to orange and purple.  The dappled water surface reflected the sky colour and David lamented that we really needed a foreground subject to add some interest to the picture composition.  The distant pelicans were inadequate but soon Manuel, the local fisherman, came by for a visit.  His panga slowly coming in from the side was a great silhouette and all the photographers were happy with their foreground subject.

Day 10  (Thursday 6 April)

Sea of Cortez – Espiritu Santu Island

This morning the wind picked up; we took a little spray on our way ashore to Nopolo.  We had great looks at many of the land birds we had seen before, Phainopepla, orioles, hummingbirds and Blue-Gray Gnatcatchers.  We heard, but never saw the little Canyon Wren, even though we looked very hard.  This was clearly a disappointment, for the passengers and the guides.

Soon after we left the anchorage, we were in the middle of Common Dolphins, surfing and leaping in the whipped up sea.  It is a good thing we had the wind at our back as we had a gentle ride to Los Islotes.  On the way, we stopped to look at the seabirds on the rocks near the south end of Isla San Jose.  After lunch we anchored the boat in the lee of the little island of Los Islotes.  We went for skiff rides and snorkelled with the California Sea Lions.  The views of the rocks with the big surf breaking in the background made for great photography.  The sea lions were the usual group of wild and graceful swimmers.  Funny thing, just after everyone got back in the boat, we spotted a Hammerhead Shark swimming right by the Spirit.

Just as we were leaving, Scot picked up a piece of Sargasum weed that was floating by, Marjorie quickly dumped it into a bucket.  She found a Pacific Seahorse, a Hooded Nudibranch (Melibe leonina), a crab and some flatworms.  Wow!  All in one patch of floating seaweed.

The weather was just too choppy for whale watching, so we headed for a small cove halfway down the west side of Espiritu Santu called Candelero.  We walked up the beach to a small arroyo and a Canyon Wren sang, suddenly the bird was out in plain view and everyone was thrilled.  The calls from excited birders echoed back to the decks of the Spirit.  That was a fun tick!  We warmed up with cool margaritas served by Brian, and Dan cooked up some fresh fish called Cabrilla for dinner.

Day 11  (Friday 7 April)

Sea of Cortez – Los Frailles

We lifted the anchor at 4:30 am in search for more whales.  An hour and a half later, we were just south of the tip of Isla Espiritu Santu.  Several experienced observers saw the sun shoot its green flash at sunrise.  For the next few hours, we saw storm petrels, frigatebirds and dolphins that did not want to play near our boat.  A Humpback Whale was similarly uncooperative.  Although there was a north wind, we enjoyed a smooth ride.  The barren looking island of Cerralvo was to the east while the jagged mountains of the Cape Region were to our west.

Mike announced that there was a Blue Whale up ahead and it was a “fluker.”  All gathered on the bow or up on the bridge.  For the next two and a half hours, we followed this individual.  We all watched, most with cameras at ready as this massive 80-foot long whale exhaled a huge amount of vapour and then surfaced, a massive body tapering to a hydrodynamic tail.  Its small dorsal fin was distinctive.  It rolled its tail upward and began to raise its fluke out of the water, but then almost tantalizingly did not raise its flukes.  Eleven minutes later, we had another chance, the tail rolled and this time the incredibly wide flukes were raised clear of the water.  A wonderful “waterfall” effect of seawater cascading off its flukes as it raised them out of the water almost to perpendicular, before sliding below the surface.  We now knew this whale’s pattern.  With seven to ten minute soundings we had time to make some tea, change film and get back for another chance to see the world’s largest animal.  We had about eight chances to photograph this cooperative animal.  It was fun to see everyone with a digital camera quickly reviewing his or her photos.  And  everyone was very happy with the results.  The Sea of Cortez is clearly one of the best places in the world to see Blue Whales.  Dressed in our shorts, we felt a lot more comfortable and relaxed than the Blue Whale seekers in Iceland, or Antarctic waters.

For the rest of the day we scanned the surface of the water, but could not find any additional whales.  There were some frustrating views of a sea turtle, either a Green or Pacific Ridley, but it would not surface again for a better view.  By

late afternoon, our best option was to anchor at Los Frailles and take a desert walk.  Our bird walk here a few days before had been very successful, but David reminded the group that there were many new birds we could still find.  He mentioned the cuckoo that runs along roads to entice everyone.

Soon we had an excellent sighting of a male California Gnatcatcher.  Many birds, including thrashers, Verdin, doves and hummingbirds were all present.  Up a road, that David had not previously spent much time, a Pyrrhuloxia was giving us partial views.  Roger yelled out that he was seeing a blue bird with a yellowish bill.  It took some work to find this small bird, but soon we all had scope views as it perched feeding slowly in a bush.  It was a Varied Bunting, one of the more colourful and stunning passerines in North America, and a first for a Wild Wings group in Baja.

While still basking in the bunting excitement we then saw a female Ladder-backed Woodpecker feeding calmly on the ground only 20 feet from us!  There were more birds, but near the end of the walk, we were especially thrilled to see a Coyote loping along the road in front of us.  Nearby two Black-tailed Jack Rabbits sat in the open.  A pair of Killdeer looked like they were nesting in the large open area, but the Roadrunner was nowhere to be found.

Dinner was a brilliant Prime Rib and we all toasted our wonderful cook, Dan.  After dinner, our naturalists gathered us for one last meeting to give us information for our return to civilisation tomorrow.  Some of us shared memories, and their were many, of our spectacular voyage.

Day 12 (Saturday 8 April)

Cabo San Lucas

A couple of Humpback Whales were seen en route to Cabo San Lucas shortly after a dramatic sunrise, that coloured half the sky.  The sight of a large cruise ship reminded us of the ‘real world’ and the unique adventures and incredible variety of wildlife we had just been privileged to see on the relatively tiny Spirit.  We disembarked by water taxi and transferred to the airport as a group. The excellent visibility for our return flight over the Sea of Cortez allowed us to view the island-studded sea below.  We were able to retrace our voyage over the last few days, as Espiritu Santu, San Jose and Santa Catalina were all clearly visible in the aquamarine water below us.  At the Los Angeles airport, David and Scot bid us farewell as we separated for our journey home.