We boarded the Pride of Bilbao in Portsmouth on Saturday evening with the prospect of some unsettled weather ahead of us — but nothing had prepared us for what lay ahead! The trip turned out to be the most challenging voyage across Biscay that any of us had experienced, and yet a good number of cetaceans and seabirds was seen.

We awoke near Isle d’Ouessant off Brittany in weather that was challenging for spotting cetaceans but not unpleasant. Early risers saw small and elusive Harbour Porpoises in the shallow water, and there were four sightings and at least 13 animals. Seabirds were also present in the area, with Sooty and Manx Shearwaters, Great Skua and two Sabine’s Gulls. A group of at least five dolphins were seen distantly under a large gathering of feeding Gannets.

Indeed, several large flocks of Gannets were observed on the shelf during the morning, and one of these signalled our first group of Common Dolphins, their yellow flank markings clearly visible as three approached the ferry close to the starboard side. A good number of Sabine’s Gulls was seen during the early afternoon, including a superb flock of nine birds. Although seabirds had been scarce in Biscay over the summer, we hoped that the blustery westerly wind might bring shearwaters into the eastern Bay, and this proved to be the case. Our first Great Shearwater was seen at 1.29 pm and we were treated to several more during the afternoon, including a group of four off the port side that gave great views.

The captain kindly deviated the ferry to reach the shelf break early in the afternoon, and we keenly awaited a spate of cetacean sightings. However, the weather was beginning to worsen and we had south-westerly Force 6-7 winds for the remainder of the day, making conditions on deck uncomfortable for all. Right on cue as we travelled over the 200 m contour and into deeper water, we were thrilled to see more than 200 Common Dolphins porpoising towards the ferry from all around us. These small, agile cetaceans seemed to revel in the heavy swell, leaping athletically from the waves and playing in the stern waves behind the vessel. A small Blue Shark passed briefly down the starboard side, and shortly afterwards a group of eight Long-Finned Pilot Whales was seen travelling slowly southwards very close to the side of the boat.

Our first whale blow came mid-afternoon as we travelled into 2,000 m of water. The animal was identified as a Fin Whale as its high vertical blow was clearly that of a rorqual, despite the wind blowing it in a forward’s direction. Part of its graceful rolling back was also visible.

By late afternoon we were experiencing rain showers as well as rough weather, and many people opted for an early finish to the day. However, those who persevered on deck were rewarded with several small groups of Pilot Whales and both Great and Cory’s Shearwaters. Finally, after a quiet hour of very little activity, a disturbance in the water on the port side attracted our attention. Two small whales emerged from the water within 250 m of the side of the vessel and breached energetically about 10 times in all. Everyone on deck got magnificent views of the animals, and it was immediately clear that we were looking at beaked whales of the genus Mesoplodon. These whales are deep-diving, uncommon species and most of them are rarely sighted and extremely poorly known.

Excitement increased when the presence of a short beak and obvious dark eye-patch revealed that these were not Sowerby’s Beaked Whales Mesoplodon bidens, the most frequently recorded species in the region. The identification of beaked whales is fraught with difficulty, and 100 per cent identification depends entirely on detecting the presence and position of small teeth along the lower jaw of adult males. No-one on deck was able to see such teeth, which probably indicated that we were looking at female or immature animals. The size and shape of the body, the short beak, sloping forehead, dark eye-patch and dark dorsal cape all strongly indicated that the species in question was True’s Beaked Whale Mesoplodon mirus or, less probably, Gervais’ Beaked Whale M. europeaus.

The extreme rarity of strandings of the latter species in this region, and a confirmed live sighting of True’s Beaked Whale in Biscay the week before, together indicate that True’s Beaked Whale is the most likely identity of these whales, while the dark dorsal cape is also indicative of this species. Those on deck who saw these animals were genuinely privileged to sight one of the world’s most elusive mammals, and a species for which there have only ever been two confirmed sightings of animals at sea anywhere in the world.

A very early start and we headed into the foothills behind Santurtzi in search of birds and butterflies. A good range of species was seen, highlights including male and female Sardinian Warblers, Red-backed Shrikes, Cetti’s Warblers showing uncharacteristically well in the open, and excellent views of several Melodious Warblers. Large numbers of Pied Flycatchers, Common Whitethroats and Goldfinches were seen, and we had unusual views of two or three Northern Wheatears feeding on berries along the bushes. A total of 11 Griffon Vultures soared over the hill-tops, while the walk back down into town produced excellent views of several Serins. The overcast weather was not ideal for insect-spotting, and we managed only three butterfly species: Painted Lady, Small White and Meadow Brown.

We sailed out of Santurtzi with growing feelings of trepidation as the captain had informed us that Gale 8 was forecast for the return journey north. A single tuna was seen leaping from the water, and 10 minutes later a group of 30 Common Dolphins swam hurriedly past the stern of the vessel.

Unfortunately, conditions on deck worsened rapidly, with the wind indeed increasing to Gale 8 and gusting Severe Gale 9. Several people and telescopes were blown over on the top deck, resulting in the closure of decks 10 and 11 for the rest of the day.

Stalwart members of the group continued to watch from the relative shelter of the starboard side and saw a Balearic Shearwater fly past, but heavy rain and breaking waves resulted in no sightings of anything until the evening, when blows from large animals, presumably Fin Whales, were seen in the heavy sea. Some people also saw a single Fin Whale close to the vessel on the port side.

In view of the terrible viewing conditions, Clive Martin kindly invited the group to a special presentation in the cinema showing photographs and video footage of the Masked Booby and True’s and Cuvier’s Beaked Whales seen on previous trips.

We awoke off Isle d’Ouessant still in strong winds and sailed into the English Channel towards Portsmouth. Early risers saw two separate Harbour Porpoises and there were small numbers of Gannets and Great Skuas. A good number of European Storm-petrels were seen in the Channel and we noted our first Fulmars and Cormorants of the trip. When Richard and Lynette failed to appear for the final log at 11.30 am, the rest of us wondered what we were missing on deck and our fears were confirmed when they arrived to say they had seen five Pilot Whales and a single Minke Whale. These, however, were the last cetaceans of the voyage. The persistence of some watchers to the end of the sailing paid off as an Osprey was seen flying west off the Isle of Wight.

Although the Bay of Biscay is notorious for its weather, it is highly unfortunate that conditions on deck during the trip were so unpleasant for much of the time. However, the power and magnificence of the ocean was apparent for all to see, and sightings of five species of shearwater and a very rare cetacean will hopefully inspire many of you to try again some time in the future.