Another group of Wildwings participants enjoyed an extremely successful tour of the Galapagos, visiting no less than eleven islands and recording all 28 endemic birds with the exception of the elusive Mangrove Finch. In addition five species of whales, fantastic close-up views of both Land and Marine Iguanas, plenty of Pacific Green Turtles and one Hawksbill Turtle, 40+ species of tropical fish, 15 wild Giant Tortoises, a spectacular school of Striped Dolphins and two endemic butterflies added to the brilliant array of wildlife.

The group left London Heathrow at 11.00 hours and arrived in Quito at 22.00 hours, quickly transferring to the nearby Akros Hotel. Next morning saw most of the participants leaving for Tandayapa Lodge set in the beautiful Andean mountain slopes, where during the day’s excursion no less than 18 species of hummingbirds were observed at close range on the feeders including the superb Violet-tailed Sylph. A stunning introduction to Ecuador!

Early next day we departed from our hotel to catch our morning flight to the Galapagos Islands via Guyaquil, landing at Baltra at 11.30 hours and being met by our local Galapagos National Park guide, Mauricio Garcia. Admiring our first endemic bird species, several Small Ground Finches, we quickly transferred by bus to the quayside where we and our luggage were transported to the waiting Cachalote, a 70 foot motorised sailing vessel and our ‘home’ for the next ten days. Whilst settling into our cabins and together watching Wedge-rumped Storm-petrels we commenced sailing to nearby South Plaza island, landing in the afternoon and being immediately overwhelmed by the abundance and tameness of the wildlife. Galapagos Sea Lions greeted us at the landing stage, whilst lots of Small and one Medium Ground Finch fed amongst the stunning Opuntia cacti. Nesting on the cliffs were gorgeous Swallow-tailed Gulls, whilst Red-billed Tropicbirds and Audubon’s Shearwaters wheeled around and hundreds of endemic Yellow-tailed Mullet were observed feeding at the surface of the beautiful clear ocean water. The cameras were clicking away feverishly! Returning to the vessel, we enjoyed our first of many excellent evening meals, having been introduced to Captain Roberto and the rest of the crew of the Cachalote before settling into our cabins for a well-earned night’s sleep.

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We awoke to find ourselves anchored off Santa Fe island. Ashore after breakfast on this lovely uninhabited island we recorded our first Galapagos Hawks, Galapagos Mockingbirds and Warbler Finches, along with the endemic Santa Fe Land Iguanas. Close inshore we saw our only Orca of the trip, whilst inquisitive sea lions burnt up yet more of our camera film – would we have enough we asked ourselves? Returning to the boat mid morning, many of the group enjoyed the first of six snorkelling
opportunities, seeing three stunning Diamond Sting Rays and a White-tipped Reef Shark. The vessel then sailed to San Cristobal island where we went ashore, admiring the Lava Gull at the quayside before travelling by bus towards the local cemetery area. Walking along a trail we were introduced to more endemic “Darwin” finches

including Large Ground Finch, Small and Large Tree Finch and the amazing
Woodpecker Finch along with Chatham Mockingbird. Driving higher into the misty Highlands we visited the El Junco Crater before returning to harbour at sunset and re-boarding the Cachalote for another enjoyable evening dinner.

In the early hours the vessel sailed for Espanola where we landed soon after breakfast at Gardner Bay and walking along the beach soon encountered Large Cactus Finch and plenty of Hood Mockingbirds amongst the scrubby bushes. Further snorkelling from the vessel produced another White-tipped reef Shark and a stunning Hawksbill Turtle, non-snorkellers enjoying a dinghy ride along the Bay observing three Wandering Tattlers. During lunch the Cachalote repositioned to the west coast of Espanola for a truly superb afternoon’s landing at Punta Suarez. Unforgettable Galapagos wildlife was encountered including nesting endemic Waved Albatrosses, displaying partners both ‘kissing and cuddling’ and bill clapping, along with nesting Blue-footed Boobies, some of which were too near to photograph. A small colony of Nazca Boobies [formerly Masked Booby] and many, many more exquisite Swallow-tailed Gulls in flight, resembling large Sabine’s Gulls with their triangular blackish wing patterning. A pair of Galapagos Hawks were also watched ‘changing over’ at the nest-site, whilst Espanola Lava Lizards managed to hold everyone’s attention. All too much to take in! A few celebratory beers were well enjoyed that evening before setting sail for our next island destination of Floreana.

Arriving again in the very early hours, we awoke to find ourselves anchored off Champion Island. Here we cruised along the coastline before breakfast and soon found ourselves watching our fourth endemic Mockingbird – Charles Mockingbird. Repositioning to Punta Cormorant on the north coast of Espanola, we were introduced to the ‘olivine’ green sand before birding around the large shallow lagoon. Here we unexpectedly encountered the endemic Medium Ground Finch, the Floreana speciality, along with a flock of Greater Flamingos and White-cheeked Pintails, botanists also being treated to the localised Cut-leaf Daisy and subspecies of passion flower, not forgetting the usual welcoming committee of hundreds of sea lions. Snorkelling off the dramatic rocks aptly named the Devil’s Crown provided wonderful views of Pacific Green Turtles, these gentle creatures nesting amongst the islands. Repositioning to Puerto Velasco Ibarra on the western coast, we drove up into the highlands stopping abruptly for an extremely handsome and confiding Short-eared Owl, surely a candidate for ‘splitting out’ as Galapagos Owl? In the highlands we saw endemic Queen and Sulphur butterflies and admired the amazing caves which
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the Wittmer family had so crudely lived in during the thirties, before returning to harbour and whale watching around five to seven miles offshore. Sadly no whales were seen but plenty of Elliot’s Storm-petrels and a few very striking Dark-rumped Petrels [Galapagos Petrel] were recorded as we gradually sailed north towards Santa Cruz, our next island destination.

The next morning found us anchored in Academy Bay looking across to the largest town in the archipelago, Puerto Ayora. Immediately after breakfast we went ashore and took the bus to Media Luna, an area of dense miconia bush and pampa in the highlands, frequently shrouded in mist during the ‘garua’ season. Here we patiently awaited sightings of the endemic Galapagos Rail, a few managing to glimpse the tiny

rail near the edge of the trail, along with excellent views of the large Vegetarian
Finch. A fine lunch was taken at Attair where we were treated to nesting Barn Owl
before driving high up again to visit the very impressive Twin Craters above Santa Rosa, two splendid examples of volcanic sinks. Then on to El Chato, the Giant Tortoise Reserve, where at least 15 of the magnificent beasts were seen, slowly grazing amongst the bushes and along the various trails in the reserve along with at least three Paint-billed Crakes, Purple Gallinule and a Woodpecker Finch with a twig in its bill; one of very few birds highly adapted to using a tool as an aid to feeding. Anchored overnight in harbour most of the group next morning enjoyed visiting the Charles Darwin Research Centre [CDRC] followed by some ‘retail therapy’ in town, whilst a few hard-core birders returned to Media Luna and after what seemed an age, were eventually rewarded with 2-3 juvenile Galapagos Rails. After lunch we started the lengthy sail west towards Isabela. During the afternoon’s whale watching session, six to seven blows were observed, with positive sightings of one Bryde’s Whale and one Sperm Whale logging, with one of the blows appearing extremely tall and judged to probably have been a Blue Whale.

Early next morning found us anchored at Punta Moreno watching a female Humpback Whale and calf just 100 metres away in the beautiful calm waters. What a start to the day! After breakfast we navigated in the dinghies through the mangrove channels and went ashore to this little visited region – a stark and beautiful landscape of black Pakoe-hoe lava rock, brackish lagoons and green oases, set against the backdrop of Volcan Cerro Azul. Here a lucky few had distant views of our only Galapagos Martin of the trip before sighting our first Galapagos Penguins along with some superb White-tipped Reef Sharks that permanently frequent the brackish lagoons. Above the lagoon hunted several Spot-winged Glider dragonflies and Painted Locusts, a small flock of both Black-necked Stilts and Greater Flamingos complimenting the avifauna. A further snorkelling session proved extremely rewarding with many of the group touching Pacific Green Turtles, seeing Galapagos Penguins feeding underwater and observing both a sea horse and terrific variety of tropical fish including Bull’s-eye Puffer fish. During the middle of the day the Cachalote sailed north along the Bolivar Channel with everyone relaxed and enjoying the clear skies and calm waters, whilst watching Elliot’s Storm-petrels pattering on the water and several large rafts of Common Noddies and Audubon’s Shearwaters that were encountered along with two Short-finned Pilot Whales during the repositioning to Tagus Cove on the north-west coast of Isabela. Here the vessel anchored and a lengthy dinghy ride to dusk produced
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excellent views of Brown Pelicans, Blue-footed Boobies and Galapagos Penguins along the majestic cliffs and deep blue waters around the cove.

Still off Isabela, a short sailing early next morning brought us to Punta Tortuga, where landing on the ‘Black Beach’ we spent the morning looking for the rarest of the endemic finches, Mangrove Finch, which unfortunately eluded us. Brown Pelicans
and Blue-footed Boobies fishing on the sardines offshore were however, some compensation, along with plenty of Marine Iguanas and large numbers of Great Frigatebirds standing resplendent with their bright red pouches contrasting spectacularly with the black larva rocks. During lunch the vessel sailed the short distance across the Channel to anchor off Punta Espinosa, Fernandina island. Another snorkelling session off the Point gave wonderful opportunities to actually touch Marine Iguanas, further sightings of Galapagos Penguins and a stunning Eagle
Ray. The rest of the afternoon was spent landing on and exploring Punta Espinosa,
the highlight by far being the colony of nesting Flightless Cormorants along with chicks. Hundreds of Marine Iguanas lay around in a heap and five species of shorebirds including Semi-palmated Plover and Hudsonian Whimbrel, at least 20 Pacific Green Turtles and a Galapagos Hawk feeding on the afterbirth of a newly-born Galapagos Sea-Lion added to the glory of the island, whilst for many the sight of at least five Spotted Eagle Rays ‘flying’ just offshore and photographed will certainly be well remembered. Another super evening dinner was thoroughly enjoyed before retiring to bed for an overnight anchor off Fernandina.

After breakfast next morning we headed north out of the Bolivar Channel for the longest sailing of the trip towards Genovesa. Although the seabirds were relatively thin in numbers, a school of 80+ Common Dolphins and 20+ Striped Dolphins were wonderful sightings, many of them jumping clear out of the water. The traditional ‘crossing of the equator’ ceremony was duly performed along with cocktails, before lunch and circumnavigating the majestic Roca Redonda, simply teeming with thousands of Wedge-tailed Petrels, Common Noddies, Red-billed Tropicbirds, Audubon’s Shearwaters and Swallow-tailed Gulls. Turning east the rest of the day was spent sea watching, most of the group rewarded with a flock of 40 Red-necked Phalaropes and intermittent sightings of Dark-rumped and Madeiran [Band-rumped] Petrels. The most interesting records however, were firstly of a small all dark petrel [probably a Markham’s’ Storm-petrel] and three separate sightings of a large, all dark shearwater [possibly a Wedge-tailed Shearwater], but unfortunately none of the sightings could be 100% conclusive. Even though the sea was quite lively, most of us slept well that night.

At 06.15 next morning we arrived off Genovesa. The morning was spent ashore at Darwin’s Bay thoroughly enjoying and photographing the colony of Red-footed Boobies, along with plenty more Great Frigatebirds, Swallow-tailed Gulls and the last of the endemic finches, Sharp-beaked Ground Finch. More snorkelling from the beach enabled those taking part to revel in yet more White-tipped Reef Sharks and a variety of tropical fish, before re-joining the Cachalote for the final snorkelling session of the trip in deep water off El Barranco where a massive Manta Ray was observed very well, whilst others enjoyed close-up views of Galapagos Fur Seals lounging on the cliff ledges. In the afternoon we went ashore at Prince Philip’s Steps, walking
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through the colony of nesting Red-footed and Nazca Boobies before admiring the spectacle of hundreds of Wedge-rumped Storm-petrels wheeling around the larva rocks, the odd Short-eared Owl perched waiting to pounce on the unsuspecting petrel at its burrow entrance. Alas our final evening dinner was prefaced by cocktails and farewell from the crew of the Cachalote before sailing for our final island destination – North Seymour.

Early on a lovely sunlight morning we landed on the black basaltic lava of North Seymour and walked through the fantastic breeding colony of Magnificent Frigatebirds, the purple sheen of the upperparts emblazoned by the morning sunlight, many of the perched birds with their red pouches fully extended. Another film used up! Back to the vessel for our final breakfast, and quickly packing we soon found
ourselves back on Baltra island where we had first landed ten days before. We thanked Maurice for his excellent local guidance and at 09.30 hours boarded our plane for the direct flight to Quito and transferring back to the Akros Hotel for early afternoon. Some chose to tour Old Quito and the locals markets before our final evening dinner. Next morning and all to soon we were checking in at Quito airport for our international flight home to London via Miami, finally landing safely at Heathrow ahead of schedule at 09.25 hours.

A terrific trip with exciting birds, mammals, cetaceans, plants, insects and butterflies along with stunning, stark scenery. All set in a natural, living laboratory for all of us to marvel at. Charles Darwin really was very clever!