Galapagos Trip report 12^th – 28^th July 2006

by Tour Leader Dick Filby

Another excellent trip, with all the endemic birds seen again, plus plenty of other wildlife too.  An added bonus was the extra two nights on the outbound journey in the Ecuadorian cloud forest at Tandayapa Lodge.

Day 1

We all met up at Amsterdam Airport for our overnight flight to Quito on KLM (except Andy and Melissa who had gone out early).  An uneventful flight – with two stops – firstly at Bonaire in the Dutch Antilles where it was still dark and we were allowed to go into the terminal building, and secondly at Guyaquil (Ecuador) where we had to stay on board the aircraft. 

Day 2

We arrived at Quito on a cool sunny morning, teamed up with our guide Nick and set off for Tandayapa without further ado.  We made a brief roadside stop en route, and arrived in good time before lunch, and after checking into our rooms were able to spend time on the veranda getting to know the numerous hummingbirds, and meeting up with Andy and Melissa.  In the afternoon we spent some more time on the veranda (or napping) before going out to a Cock of the Rock lek late afternoon, followed by Lyre-tailed Nightjars.  Back to the lodge for dinner and early to bed.  It was an excellent start.

Day 3

Up early we headed off by coach with a packed lunch to part of forest where we spent the rest of the day.  Lots of birds throughout the day, with some of the group choosing to relax for the afternoon, whilst the rest carried on birding.  Back to Tandayapa in time for a shower and a beer before dinner – very civilised.

Day 4

We spent the morning birding up the hill above the lodge, with highlights including Mountain Toucans, Toucan Barbet and Ocellated Tapaculo.    Back to Tandayapa for lunch and then the drive back into Quito where we arrived late afternoon. 

Day 5

Up early we headed to the airport after breakfast and took the early morning flight to the Galapagos.  On arrival at Baltra we watched Small Ground Finches, and briefly a single Land Iguana before we even got inside the terminal. Dick then handed out $100 bills and everyone bought their National Park entry tickets and we proceeded through customs into the terminal to meet our guide Maurice.  He had been on same plane as us – he boarded at the intermediate stop in Guayaquil. Our bags went straight to the ship and we followed them to the jetty where we donned lifejackets, distracted by Galapagos Sealions on the seats, Lava Heron on the rocks, and a Lava Gull on the adjoining floating jetty.  Soon on board our vessel, the Cachelote, we settled into our cabins, and enjoyed lunch distracted by Blue-footed Boobies and Elliot’s Storm Petrels.

Afterwards, aboard the Santa-Fe – a specially chartered day tripper - we set off for the short ride to North Seymour Island.  A feeding frenzy of Brown Pelicans and Blue-footed Boobies made the water boil just ahead of us, and Melissa spotted our first Great Blue Heron, standing atop a line of rocks.  North Seymour was only 20 minutes away, and as we sailed Galapagos Shearwaters joined the ever growing bird list, some passing just a few feet off the bows, with others showing very well settled on the water. 

North Seymour was an excellent first afternoon. Great and Magnificent Frigatebirds nesting and displaying, as well as Blue-footed Boobies, a few with chicks.  Several Land Iguanas, indeed my best ever experience with them here – even one clambering over a bush by the beach in the late afternoon sun – fantastic photographic opportunities.   Also Galapagos Sealions were on beach, plus bizarre looking Marine Iguanas and several feeding parties of birds offshore, Blue-footed Boobies mainly, plus a single Galapagos Petrel flying past.  As we sailed there was a tremendous view of a Flyingfish that sped away from us.  Dinner on board and a quiet evening, then early to bed.

Day 6

Our first early breakfast on board the Cachelote was followed by a dry landing on a glorious calm sunny morning, out of the dinghies onto the rocks, then a five yard dash across a sand spit between incoming waves.  It was great to be there so early, with no-one else ashore.  Lava Heron,  a Cactus Finch and later a couple more, a Wandering Tattler, three American Oystercatchers, initially on beach then on small brackish lagoon behind plus three White-cheeked Pintails, stilts, Ruddy Turnstones, Galapagos Flycatchers, Galapagos Yellow Warblers,  Small, Medium and Large Ground Finches and Land Iguanas at their nesting burrows.  Great photos of a Cactus Finch eating cactus fruit, and a Land Iguana lingering for the same.  We headed inland a little and had a great view from the top of the rise of the nearby Dragon Hill and the surrounding landscape.  Heading back to the beach there was a Woodpecker Finch for those at back of group, as well as more ground finches and Yellow Warblers.  Other groups finally arrived as we neared the beach, where two adult Lava Gulls near the landing spot showed very well.  One was bearing a USA ring – number 865-38459, which we later gave to the scientists at the Charles Darwin Research Station with a request to inform us by e-mail.

Back on board we motored around west side of Santa Cruz, putting the sails up about half way round. to Puerta Ayora, the main town.   Lunch was onboard, followed by the chance to relax and sea watch.   Lots of Galapagos Shearwaters, several Red-billed Tropicbirds, Manta Rays jumping double back flips, Galapagos Petrels, Elliots and Wedge-rumped Storm Petrels and Blue-footed Boobies.

At Puerta Ayora we went ashore for a Charles Darwin Research station visit.  At the jetty we had Maurice’s mangrove talk, and Dick’s finch pishing. This was followed by more enlightening lectures from Maurice as we toured the Institute and saw the rearing of the Giant Tortoises in preparation for their release into the wild as well as Small and Large Tree Finches.   Also we saw the famous Giant Tortoise “Lonesome George”, last of his kind, from Pinta Island.  This was followed by free time to shop, relax and bird with a Vegetarian Finch at the landing jetty on the way out of station, photograph a few pelicans at the fish dock, and have a beer before returning to the ship for dinner.  Sitting out on deck at dusk, Mick, Andy and Melissa revealed their colours as they compulsively counted Cattle Egrets as they flighted to roost over the bay.  They counted 903!

Day 7

After breakfast we went ashore to head for the highland in our bus driven by Victor – through Bella Vista with its wonderful mural on the school wall, and then on up the track towards Media Luna.  The slippery hill was too much for a loaded minibus so we walked last bit – with the bonus of two Woodpecker Finches, a Dark-billed Cuckoo, our first Warbler Finches, and a splendid Short-eared Owl of the Galapagos form perched up on moss covered bough.  And so on up the trail into the reserve, into the Scalesia zone, stopping constantly in search of the diminutive Galapagos Rail - no sound or sight of it.  Warbler Finches, Small Tree Finches and plenty of damp drizzly rain.  We eventually heard a rail – but it was a Moorhen!  We finally got to the end of the area we usually see the Galapagos Rail, so the  persevering turned around and slowly and intensively searched on the way down. We saw one pretty quickly, and waited for the others to return soi they could see it too.  Back to the bus and we headed to lunch at Altair, stopping at Bella Vista to photograph the mural.

At Altair, as well as a fine lunch, we enjoyed views of Vegetarian Finch and many Ground Finches too. Then on to Primicio Ranch at the entrance to El Chato reserve, where we saw several tortoises near the entrance track, then more in a pool near the ranch after we started walking.  We headed into the reserve where we spotted Vegetarian and Woodpecker Finches, Galapagos Flycatchers and we also saw several more tortoises.  When we got to the lagoon it was totally dry so it was a very satisfying afternoon and so good to see these gentle giants in the wild – most tourists either don’t bother or don’t have the time to do this.  We returned to the jetty and prior to returning to the ship for dinner there were some great Common Noddy photo opportunities.  Back to ship – Mick couldn’t resist another Cattle egret roost count, and even though he had missed the start of the flight, he still beat last night’s count – by two!  After dinner we retired early.

Day 8

We set off after midnight for the short crossing to San Cristobal. There were gentle seas, and we arrived as breakfast was served (6.30am today), and left for dock at 7.30am.  Our bus was waiting to take us up into the hills where we first stopped near the cemetery and birded along the old road. Almost immediately we found a pair of the endemic San Cristobal (Chatham) Mockingbirds as well as several Galapagos Flycatchers and lots of finches – including quite a few Warbler Finches, some excellent views of Small Tree Finches feeding on buds and three Vegetarian Finches, that gave a photo or two, plus a single Woodpecker Finch.  Also a Queen Butterfly, and a few dragonflies sp.

Back on board our bus we continued up to El Junco – the crater in the mist – where we saw a lone Galapagos Flycatcher in the garua, as well as some bathing Frigatebirds and a Moorhen.  The mist was thick however so we headed onto to Galapageria – breeding station Cerro Colorado for San Cristobal tortoises before returning to the ship for lunch.

This was our free afternoon, some went to practise snorkelling with Maurice, others spent time photographing Wedge-rumped and Elliot’s Storm Petrels around the boat and later, several of us went exploring this former fishing port, where some found souvenirs, and others enjoyed a beer.  We sailed after dinner for Genovesa (Tower Island).

Day 9

Up early – with a Swallow-tailed Gull alongside before light as we approached, then anchor down followed by breakfast.   Then, into the dinghies to go to Prince Phillip’s Steps (El Barranco).  Parties of Galapagos Shearwaters wheeled round the bay, and the 2^nd dinghy paused by a party of them on the water watching it enjoying a bathe.  Swallow-tailed Gulls flew along the cliffs, and Blue-footed and Nazca Boobies on which perched.  Onshore, we walked up the cleft in the rock they call Prince Phillip’s Steps, to be greeted by a wonderful scene at the top.  Nazca Boobies were everywhere, and one large youngster was attacked and nearly killed by adults.  There were more Sharp-beaked Ground Finches, Large Cactus Finch and then later Large Ground Finch too.  Many Red-footed Boobies perched in the Palo Santo trees, and you could see that one on a nest by the path had an egg when it stood up.  Another great sight was a Nazca Boobie with tiny chick under it which we saw being fed later. Galapagos Doves were walking, and then later some were more lethargic = photogenic!  We finally made it (the 200 yards) to the other side of this part of the island and to the incredible view over the Wedge-rumped Storm-Petrel colony – thousands upon thousands wheeling low over the lava, searching for their nest holes and keeping a watchful eye for the Short-eared Owls, adapted to hunting by day.  The Galapagos form is especially dark, having adapted to the lava landscape.  We found the remains of several Storm-Petrels along the way before we spotted our first owl, then a second that was much closer, and which flew closer still and landed right by the trail – giving excellent photo opportunities as it was mobbed by the Galapagos Mockingbirds – these ones on Genovesa apparently candidates for a split (as are the Large Cactus Finches).

Also fun to watch were the Red-billed Tropicbirds returning from sea but having to run the gauntlet of the ever watchful Great Frigatebirds circling above.  One hapless Tropicbird screamed loudly as a Frigate held it by the wing in front of us, tumbling earthward until the frigate released it in a heap just above the lava.  It lay there for a few minutes before flying off, only to get harried again and able to effect escape by disgorging its meal.  Later another under duress let its meal drop into the Palo Santo trees, and several frigates gathered low over the trees in an attempt to locate their “lost” meal!

Back into the dinghies to see several Galapagos Fur Seals hauled out in the shadows near the bottom of the cliff, one next to a Swallow-tailed Gull. Then back to the ship, drinks, snacks and the snorkellers went out for an enjoyable session with Maurice.  Fish seen included: Rainbow Wrass, Yellow-tipped Damselfish, Large-banded Blenny, Yellow-tailed Surgeon Fish, Moorish Idol,  King Angel fish, Blue-chin Parrotfish, Bumphead Parrotfish, Streamer Hawkfish, juvenile Damselfish, Hieroglyphic Parrotfish, Black-striped Salema, Giant Damselfish,

Finally – lunch and a siesta before heading out again, to Darwin’s Beach - our first wet landing – making sure we disembarked the dinghy over the sid, not the back, and thence onto the white coral beach.  It was a paradise that required no exploring – it was all their in your face!  Galapagos Sealions lounging on the beach, a couple of Tattlers on the rocks, Swallow-tailed Gulls – great views – best of the trip and to die for. Great Frigatebirds on nests, Sharp-beaked and Large Cactus Finches feeding at our feet, along with a single Galapagos Dove. There was a Nazca Boobie on a log, Red-footed Boobies in the Red Mangrove bushes, including two white morph birds – the rarer form on the Galapagos unlike elsewhere – and an Immature Yellow-crowned Night-Heron.   It was a beautiful sunny afternoon that gave us wonderful pre-sunset photo light. 

Finally, as the sun sank, it was time to head back to the ship for dinner and to set sail for Pta Suarez

Day 10

Morning was at sea en route to Pta Suarez, Espanola. We saw Waved Albatrosses from first light (when we were still between Sand Cristobal and Sante Fe), plus our first Madeiran Storm Petrels often giving good views, plus plenty of Galapagos Petrels, but only a few Galapagos Shearwaters which are often not so common whilst further offshore.   During the morning there were several sightings of whales – all rather brief and not close – most (or all?) were likely to have been Bryde’s Whales.  When we arrived at Espanola there were lots of Elliot’s and Wedge-rumped Storm Petrels around the boats. There was nice light – mainly overcast and flat and Andy got some great shots of the stormies. We had lunch, and then to shore.

A nice sunny welcome with a Lava Heron right by the landing spot on the lava, lots of Marine Iguanas (large and colourful with reds and green hues), many swimming – some even surfing in the large breakers off the point. Hood Mockingbirds, and a Galapagos Hawk, lots of sealions, even a dead pup with a Hood Lava Lizard on it, feeding.   What a photo!  A Wandering Tattler flew overhead, and Warbler Finch and Small Ground Finches were readily seen too.  Then we walked a few yards to the low cliffs where Nazca Boobies and Swallow-tailed Gulls were nesting, and some Tropicbirds too, wheeling low overhead on their approach runs.  Descending to the stony beach, past the Marine Iguana nesting area, we found three Yellow-crowned Night Herons (two adults), plus two American Oystercatchers.  Above the beach, on the flat ground, we were soon were next to a small group of Waved Albatrosses, one chick, probably just a couple of weeks old, plus three pairs in almost continuous display, and a single adult – probably one of the chick’s parents..  We were totally spellbound for 45 minutes or so as they repeatedly performed every part of their highly ritualised display.  It was definitely the best time that I have ever had with such a close group of Waved Albatrosses, and totally undisturbed by any other visitors.  Eventually we moved on to where a blowhole provided a mini-drama at a wave-cut platform, and then just a bit further to a place where the adult albatrosses take-off from the cliff edge.  Here we also took more photos of Swallow-tailed Gulls and of course the albatrosses in flight, before heading along the trail back through the bushes  where we spotted a broken egg and several intact eggs, plus three Large-billed Cactus Finches.  The light had gone by now and thrilled with the visit, we headed back to ship in time for shower and a drink before dinner.  Afterwards we set sail for Floreana.

Day 11

Our wake-up call found us off Champion Island – and we set off at 6am for a dawn dinghy ride in search of one of the world’s rarest birds  -  the Hood Mockingbird – which now exists on only two tiny islets due to introduced predators on the main island of Floreana.  The Islets are tiny – only a few hundred yards around and you are not allowed to land so you have to watch from the boats.  Well, we enjoyed success immediately with one mockingbird, then another, and later a third.  Galapagos Shearwaters whizzed past and Brown Noddies flew around and perched on the rocks as did a few Blue-footed Boobies.  Underneath the dinghy we spotted Yellow-tailed Surgeon Fish and King Angel Fish.

Back on board we enjoyed a hearty breakfast, and soon after, our first penguin although somewhat distant, plus more storm petrels and shearwaters and a few turtles. 

So to Pta Velasco Ibarra, where as we arrived at the dock there was a Galapagos Penguin in water to greet us, plus several large lava lizards on the rocks.  We clambered aboard the truck /bus and headed off up the hill in search of the single island endemic - Medium Tree Finch.  It was not long before we saw several, with our driver foremost in pointing them out amongst the other finches.  There were many Small Tree Finches present too.  On the way back down the hill we also saw the area where the Galapagos Petrel nests.   We had lunch and then set sail in search of cetaceans

The afternoon was quiet at first, with several Galapagos Shearwaters and Galapagos Petrels too.  We persisted in looking for sea mammals and it was not too long before we spotted two Bryde’s Whales, and one showed very well allowing us to see the diagnostic three ridges that run longitudinally along its rostrum.  We tarried quite a while, before moving on.  Several Swallow-tailed Gulls were flighting south prior to sunset, off on their nocturnal pelagic hunt.

We then saw two Sperm Whales, logging, blowing, and finally lob tailing as they dove.  Excellent! Just when we thought it was all over, Maurice spotted a Whale Shark with them, it disappeared, but then we spotted another Whale Shark which gave very good views, we could see its head, huge mouth, spotted body, big rounded dorsal fin, and long thin tail fin. Its estimated length was around 35-40 foot – specimens of this, the biggest fish in the world, don’t come much bigger.

Day 12

At Isabela Island we embarked our dinghies at 6am, landing in the mangrove at low tide, and with our main birding target of Galapagos Martin seen flying over even before the 2^nd boat had landed, we then saw several more later, including a flock of eight.  In the mangrove we saw Striated Heron and Yellow Warblers.   The lava fields themselves were incredible, stretching off into the distance, and were interspersed with small vegetation fringed pools where we saw Greater Flamingos, White-cheeked Pintail and Black-necked Stilt. Thence to more pools, where we found Yellow-tailed Mullet, two large turtles, White-tipped Reef Shark and Yellow-tailed Damselfish.  On the beach we saw several Flightless Comorants whilst waiting for our boats back to the ship.

Back on board and under way we looked for the Humpback Whales that we had learned about. After  an hour or so we saw a whale breach just ¼ mile  ahead – presumed to be a Humpback – but no further sign of it despite waiting around for a time.

After lunch there was snorkelling in Derek’s Cove for an hour or so, and this produced Pacific Burr Fish, Bacalao (Grouper), Rainbow Wrass, including a super male, Yellow-tailed Grunt, a squid,  Purple Surgeon Fish, Butterfly Fish, King Angel Fish, Dusky Chubb, Bumphead Damselfish, Panamic Sargeant Major, Creole Fish, Blue-chinned Parrot Fish, Streamer Hogfish, Bumphead Parrotfish, Harlequin Wrass (red and black form), several (c8) turtles, Chocolate Chip StarFish, and four Galapagos Penguins on a rock.

We then headed off to nearby Elizabeth Bay, where we got into the dinghies and headed for the mangrove, inside we paddled around, watching turtles and found a single moulting Galapagos Penguin lurking under the trees.  Other highlights were the sealions belching from within the trees, and a single Mockingbird singing.  We continued in the boats off to the Islas Marias for more penguins, resting in their shady spots and several cormorants on the rocks too, including a particularly good group of four.  Most distinctive, as they dried their vestigial wings.  There were more turtles in the water, a few boobies – but only a few – what a lack of them this year!  Back to the Cachalote and to drinks on the top deck as the sun sank over the yardarm – slipping behind the western flank of Fernandina.  I showed an Antarctic slideshow before dinner –  the crew were very impressed, and on learning how much a suite cost commented they could buy a new house for that much here! It was a clear starry night as we set sail after dinner, heading for Tagus Cove and a morning landing at nearby Black Turtle Beach. 

Day 13

After breakfast we had just a few minutes of sailing to reach our landing beach.  We saw Galapagos Penguins, Blue-footed Boobies and a Brown Pelican on the rocks, Galapagos Shearwaters flew past, and then just before getting into the dinghies, a whale surfaced a couple of times nearby - probably another Bryde’s Whale.

Seven Galapagos Penguins greeted us in the water, then no sooner than we had our life jackets off, the frigatebirds swooped in a frenzy on some regurgitated fish on the beach, causing the arrival of not just scores of frigatebirds but also a couple of pelicans, a Great Blue Heron and a Galapagos Hawk too.  A couple of fresh turtle tracks showed that the beach had been visited since the last tide, and as we crested the rise we could see that the top of the beach was a myriad of depressions where turtles had laid their eggs.  In between lay the long creepers of the Seaside Morning Glories, trailing ten metres or more, some with purple flowers.  We headed for the mangroves behind, in search of our main quarry, the last and perhaps rarest endemic of the tour – Mangrove Finch – found only in this tiny patch of mangrove.  Many finches evident, a singing Mockingbird and Yellow Warblers too.  We scanned through them; Small Ground Finch, Medium Ground Finch and Small Tree Finch  Another birding group arrived and almost immediately we all scored with views of a Mangrove Finch for several minutes as it searched the limbs, often in full view but low down, below eye level.  “Full House” of endemics – again!

We continued to the end of the beach and took advantage of some great photo opportunities around the rocks.  Marine Iguanas posing majestically, Sealions lumbering into the water, Lava Lizards including one that posed on the shoulder of a Marine Iguana, staring wistfully towards Fernandina across the channel – our destination for the afternoon.

Back on board 8.30am for a motor around Banks Bay – initially west along the north side of Fernandina until we reached the open ocean, then back-tracking and cutting north-eastwards across to the east side of the bay to the Isabela shore before heading back into the Bolivar Channel and to Punta Espinosa on Fernandina by 3pm. 

Excellent views were had of many Galapagos Petrels, Galapagos Shearwaters, Wedge-rumped and Elliot’s Storm Petrels, a few Blue-footed Boobies, a couple of Madeiran Storm Petrels, Waved Albatross and a single Nazca Booby. Also a Manta Wray and some Galapagos Sealions.  Cetacean wise we saw just one whale – unidentified, it showed itself a few moments just after lunch was served.  The captain stopped the vessel and attracted our attention immediately. We dashed outside and got a couple of views, but it was inconclusive - it may have been another Bryde’s.   Before getting to Pta Espinosa we encountered a large feeding flock of Common Noddies and then lots of Galapagos Shearwaters, to which the captain manoeuvred the ship close so we could get the best views. 

Close in at Pta Espinosa there were many Sea Turtles and several penguins and cormorants in the water.  Heading to shore in the dinghies, we landed on the jetty in the mangrove, raised by the recent uplift - and thus only usable at high tide.  Lava Lizards and Marine Iguanas welcomed us.  We headed to the shore by the mangroves and there were piles of Marine Iguanas, some waders including seven Turnstones, three Semi-palmated Plovers, Tattlers and a single (Hudsonian) Whimbrel.

And so to the point itself, where we spent quite some time with the Flightless Cormorants, one nesting pair with two tiny chicks and a single, as yet unhatched, egg, and several birds sitting on the edge of the lava, giving excellent views and as with so much Galapagos wildlife, apparently totally unconcerned at our presence, within just a few feet.  Eventually it was time to leave, past another huge pile of Marine Iguanas and a couple of American Oystercatchers.  We paused to watch more cormorants, pelicans and Blue-footed Boobies, sidestepped a mother and pup sealion on the trail, before walking across the rocks to get into the dinghies, as a Great Blue Heron flew past and landed.  We spotted turtle heads everywhere as we headed for the Cachalote.  Back on board we set sail overnight for Santiago.

Day 14

We awoke at Port Egas, and after breakfast took a short walk along to where several Galapagos Fur Seals were hauled out.  We noted how they are much smaller than other Fur Seals – even a large bull seems small.  Good close up views, as well as an excellent variety of other wildlife including Galapagos Mockingbirds, Galapagos Hawk, Small Ground Finches and what appeared to be Sharp-beaked Ground Finches too.  There were lots of Yellow Warblers, Lava Herons, an apparent Striated Heron, Semi-palmated Plover, Wandering Tattlers, Whimbrel and Ruddy Turnstones.  We admired lovely layered ash-like sedimentary rock, and fascinating wave cut platforms with eddy holes.

Back on board mid morning, the snorkellers gathered their gear and headed to the beach where they saw Spinster and Sunset Wrasses, 15+Barracudas (adults), Black-tipped CVardinal Fish, King Angelfish, Yellow-tailed Grunt, Black-striped Salema, White and Yellow-tailed Damselfishes, Blue-chinned Parrotfishes, Streamer Hogfish, Large-banded Blenny, turtles, Marine Iguanas and four Noddies on the rocks at two foot range!  Meanwhile the crew played football against the crew of another yacht, but lost  5 - 4, whilst others relaxed onboard.  We set sail for Bartolome, and the sea watchers saw several more of the now familiar seabirds, including Galapagos Petrel, followed by lunch.

Early afternoon at Bartolome saw the snorkellers heading out for a last session: King Angelfish, Barber Fish, Barracuda (immatures), Galapagos and Yellow-tailed Grunts, Black-striped Salema,, White-tailed and Yellow-tailed Damselfish, Flag Cabrilla, Blue-chinned Parrotfish, Bi-coloured Parrotfish, Loosetooth Parrotfish, Streamer Hogfish, Black-tipped and Pink Cardinalfish, Large Banded Blenny, Bulleye Pufferfish,  Balloonfish, Pacific Boxfish, Yellow-bellied Triggerfish, White-tipped and Black-tipped Reef Sharks.  King Starfish, a huge Conch, and a “chocolate-chip” starfish too.

The final shore excursion involved walking up the cinder cone on Bartolome, culminating with the famous view from the top.  It certainly added to our appreciation of the volcanic origins of the islands.  Back on board for a special cocktail and the farewell dinner.

Day 15

We had an early morning dinghy ride before breakfast, into a mangrove fringed lagoon and enjoyed great views of Noddies and Brown Pelicans fishing together – with the noddies following the pelicans around until they dived after fish – at which point the noddy would move in and perch on the pelican’s head whilst it sought its own feeding opportunity – perhaps some scraps or a fleeing fish.   Blue-footed Boobies streamed past westwards, and soon it was time to be back on board, and sail across the bay to disembark and catch the plane back to Quito.  We gave our fond farewells to the crew.

We arrived in Quito early, so after the short ride to the hotel there was time for those interested to take a walk to the local park.  We found Rufous-collared Sparrow, Eared Dove, Great Thrush and Sparkling Violetear in the gardens before getting to the park, and once there we added Black-tailed Trainbearer, Black Flowerpiercer, Cinerous Conebill, Vermilion Flycatcher and Brown-chested Swallow.  A very enjoyable stroll.

Back at the hotel our land-based farewell dinner, preceded by drinks in celebration of Lynne’s coming birthday, rounded off the day in fine fashion.

Day 16

Up early and those of us that were not staying on (we are all too envious of you four!) made our way to the airport and boarded the KLM flight to Amsterdam.  The plane made a brief stop on the way in the Caribbean on the Lesser Antillean island of Bonaire.  It provided a very limited but enjoyable birding experience whilst in transit at the airport.  We were offered the opportunity to disembark and walk a 100 yards to a small transit lounge with a limited view, and had to be back on board in 20 minutes.  The resulting list of birds was impressive:

Bonus species!

Laughing Gull Larus atricilla

Royal Tern Sterna maxima

Least Tern Sterna antillarum

Common Ground-Dove Columbina passerina

Eared Dove* Zenaida auriculata rubripes

[Scaly-necked Pigeon - Columba squamosa]– possible

Ruby-topaz Hummingbird Chrysolampis mosquitus

Gray Kingbird Tyrannus dominicensis

Tropical Mockingbird Mimus gilvus

Bananaquit Coereba flaveola

*Eared Dove form ‘rubripes’ (which also occurs in Venezuela) have buff tipped tails.

Day 17

We arrived in Amsterdam early morning to connect with flights to our own local airports.  A hot dry England awaited us – warmer than the equator had been!