Trip report by Tour Leader Dick Filby

This year’s tour was another very successful and enjoyable trip, The incredible tameness of the wildlife was once again a major highlight in itself, and everyone was able to take superb photographs even with the smallest cameras. We saw at least eight Giant Tortoises in the wild, scores of Pacific Green Turtles including two hatchlings on a beach, thousands of Marine Iguanas, both species of Land Iguana, several huge schools of Common Dolphins, each with several hundred individuals, and we discovered the fourth White-faced Storm Petrel for The Galapagos. We saw all the endemic bird species seen bar one (Galapagos Martin), but on a positive note we now have a new, better site for this species for next year’s trip.

Having flown via Amsterdam from various local airports across the UK, the group arrived in Quito, and we transferred to our hotel just a short drive away. After checking into our rooms, those of us on the birding excursion to Tandayapa Cloud Forest Lodge set off late morning. Some of the party chose instead to take the city tour which proved very interesting, and some chose simple to relax at the hotel. At Tandayapa the hummingbird show on the patio was truly spectacular, with scores of individuals constantly vying for position at the dozen or so feeders. We saw an amazing nineteen species of hummingbird, plus several other forest birds, and a good lunch at this pleasant lodge before returning to our Quito hotel at dusk.

Up early, we flew via Guyaquil to Baltra on the Galapagos where we met our guide, Maurice, at the airport and saw our first endemics, several Small Ground Finches, and a Land Iguana near the shops. We were soon at the nearby quay and onboard our stylish home for the next ten days, The Cachalote. We left our "island" shoes on the deck and stepped inside the lounge, which, with its large picture windows and wooden interior was very inviting. An excellent lunch awaited us and afterwards, as we settled into our cabins we headed to South Plaza island, just a couple of hours away, for our first landing. It was an excellent first landing of the trip. Several Galapagos Sea Lions greeted us as we went ashore, and gave us great photographic opportunities. When it was necessary, Maurice demonstrated a useful tip, in order to get a sea lion to move out of your way all you needed to do was clap your hands loudly. We had scarcely got 20 yards before we were burning film on Marine and Land Iguanas just past the landing spot, as well as our first Cactus Finches. We clicked and whirred away the rest of the afternoon with a typically lengthy (time-wise) short walk of a few hundred yards. The Prickly Pear cacti were resplendent in the late afternoon sun, Swallow-tailed Gulls and Red-billed Tropicbirds were at the clifftop, where we also saw nests of both, whilst Audubon’s Shearwaters wheeled over the water and landed on the cliffs to scoot into nesting crevices, and a large school of Yellow-tailed Mullet was offshore. As we returned to the Cachalote at dusk, pleased with our successes, we had used so much film that several people were already wondering if they had brought enough for the trip. Refreshed after a good shower, a drink from the bar, we tucked into our first supper which certainly did not disappoint! Right through the trip the chef managed to provide good and varied food every day, with excellent soups, generous and interesting main courses, plenty of fresh salads and vegetables, and a dessert to finish.

We retired to our cabins early, in readiness for the wake-up call and hearty breakfast that would start each day. We had sailed overnight to be close to Sante Fe island, which like South Plaza is also uninhabited, and was our chosen landing spot for the morning. Onshore we found a superb adult Lava Heron, half a dozen Galapagos Doves, a couple of Galapagos Flycatchers, several Warbler Finches, 6+Galapagos Mockingbirds and the endemic Sante Fe Land Iguana of which we saw two very well. An endemic Sante Fe Rice Rat was glimpsed, and nearby there were several very photogenic Galapagos Sea Lions on the beach, and a couple of endemic Galapagos Hawks, one of which cruised low over our heads.

Back onboard late morning it was off to San Cristobal for the afternoon. En route we saw our first Waved Albatross, a couple of Galapagos Petrels (recently split from Hawaian Petrel) and many Audubon’s Shearwaters and Wedge-rumped Storm Petrels and our first large whale of the trip, probably a Bryde’s Whale. We arrived at San Cristobal by lunchtime, and went ashore afterward. We readily found the single island endemic - San Cristobal Mockingbird at our regular roadside site for this species, as well as Woodpecker Finch, Large Tree Finch and Small Ground Finch and some Smooth-billed Anis. We continued further up into the highlands with an atmospheric visit to the lake of El Junco, which is surrounded with splendid Miconia bushes a native bush that is in flower at this time of year. The ubiquitous Yellow Warbler, which here on The Galapagos represented by a very brightly coloured endemic subspecies "aureolla" was common here, as it is across the archipelago. Some bats were seen as we headed back towards the ship at the end of the afternoon, probably Hoary Bats. We celebrated another very successful day with supper on board whilst at anchor in the harbour.

Next day we were at Espanola (Hood) Island all day. Our first landing was at Gardner Bay, where several Hood Mockingbirds showed very well indeed, mobbing us for water on this very dry island. They too are single island endemics and we had now seen three of the four mockingbirds of The Galapagos. Inshore, several Pacific Green Sea Turtles cruised by, whilst Espanola Lava Lizards lounged by the bushes at the top of the beach. One particular Hood Mockingbird had found a newly emerged turtle hatchling at the edge of the bushes and soon had turned it on its back, and had eaten its flesh. We watched, cameras poised, from just a few feet. Shortly afterwards it found and devoured another. Nature in action!

After an early lunch we spent all afternoon at Punta Suarez, a magical place teeming with wildlife and one of the best spots in the whole archipelago. Scores of Marine Iguanas, and 15 or more Galapagos Sea Lions were swimming all around the landing rocks and many more were on the beach. Some sea lions had small pups and were very photogenic, though we of course took care not to get too close to them or their nursing mothers. Other, older, two and three year old pups lay next to, or even on, the path, and were extremely tolerant as we passed cautiously by. Nazca and Blue-footed Boobies were nesting by the path, and Red-billed Tropicbirds screamed as they passed low overhead. At the cliffs we revelled in the sight of several Swallow-tailed Gulls, but did not tarry long with them as we would see many, and more photographic ones, later in the trip. Audubon Shearwaters were passing offshore in hundreds, but better still were the scores of Waved Albatrosses cruising by. Soon we were at their nesting grounds, and saw several birds very close to, some with small chicks and some with eggs. Whilst a large blowhole roared salt spray into the air, we settled down and had some quiet time with the albatrosses. Watching their bill clapping, mutual preening and waddling dance we were entranced. All too soon however the sun dipped towards the horizon, closing yet another great day.

We awoke off Champion Islet, Floreana, home to the last of the Charles Mockingbirds. We got into the zodiacs and cruised close inshore, soon locating several and getting great views of them, as well as the by now usual sea lions and several Common Noddies. Over breakfast we sailed past the Devil’s Crown, the emergent top of an extinct volcanic cone. Just off Punta Cormorant, as we headed ashore, we spotted our first Galapagos Penguins and once onshore the lagoon behind the beach held 42 Greater Flamingos as well as a Hudsonian Whimbrel, some Ruddy Turnstones and Semi-palmated Plovers. On the nearby beach a coconut shell on the tide line reminded us of how some of the colonising species arrived at theses volcanic islands, but on top of the nearby hill were several goats, a visible reminder of the devastating non-natural introductions.

After lunch we headed for the highlands of Floreana, the only place in the archipelago that the Medium Tree Finch is to be found. Just half an hour up the road from the coast, almost as soon as we stopped the bus (well — half truck, half bus) we saw our first one, shortly followed by two more feeding on the fruit of an orange tree. Small Tree Finches provided good comparative views. After taking our fill, we visited some Giant Tortoises in an enclosure and looked forward to our visit on Santa Cruz island where we would seek them in the wild. The Wittmer Place ruins were the scene for our guide to tell us some of the fascinating and mysterious history of the island. Late afternoon we headed offshore to look for cetaceans, and soon located a large school of hundreds of Common Dolphins, which thrilled us as they leapt high and sprinted through the waves in pursuit of prey.

The next morning we were at anchor of Puerto Ayora, Santa Cruz. An early start saw us heading to the Highlands in search of the tiny and elusive Galapagos Rail. En-route we stopped the bus for two Paint-billed Crakes on the track, and not long into our walk we all managed to see a Galapagos Rail out in the open on the footpath at very close range on and off for ten minutes. It was a thrilling experience to see this beautiful and tiny denizen of the undergrowth so well, and was certainly one of the highlights of the whole trip. We headed for lunch at a nearby house, where we were entertained by the owners to a splendid meal on their patio complete with magnificent views. Outside, amongst the other finches, we found the largest of the Galapagos Finches, the Vegetarian Finch. Pleased with a great day so far, we headed off in search of Giant Tortoises. Sure enough, we found several, indeed some of them were blocking the footpath. Using a stealthy and quiet approach (they withdraw into their shells when they feel threatened) we took some great photographs. Six or more Great Frigatebirds came to drink and bathe at a small lagoon which also held several American Purple Gallinules, a Pied-billed Grebe and some Moorhens. That evening, after another good meal from our chef, nobody took the opportunity to spend time in town, even though it would be our only chance of the trip — the remainder of the time we would be in uninhabited areas. Instead we all enjoyed a good, long night’s sleep.

The following morning we disembarked to visit the Charles Darwin research station, but before we got there we were thrilled to see a very unusual sight — a Woodpecker Finch actually using a twig to extract grubs from a piece of rotting wood. We watched enthralled for minutes as it used first one, then another twig as a tool in the fashion for which it is so famous but is seldom observed. Afterward, we continued to the Research Station and received a fascinating insight into the problems of introduced alien species and the incredible damage that they have caused. We also learnt of the ongoing efforts to control and eradicate these introduced pests, and saw the Giant Tortoise breeding programme, which has resulted in the successful release of many hundred back into the wild.

After some souvenir shopping and postcard sending we set off for the western and youngest islands of the archipelago. The afternoon at sea was punctuated with seabird sightings, including 2 Waved Albatrosses, at least 20 Galapagos Petrels, several Elliot’s Storm Petrels, 2 Madeiran Storm Petrels, 2 Red-billed Tropicbirds, a few Nazca Boobies and many Blue-footed Boobies and 2 Swallow-tailed Gulls. We rounded Isabela island overnight and the following morning we were on the west coast of Isabela, in the shadow of the Darwin Volcano, searching the mangroves for one of the rarest birds in the islands, indeed the world - Mangrove Finch. Well, we succeeded! Yet another endemic. Soon to be followed by our next, a Flightless Comorant that appeared just offshore in the shallows, as well as four Galapagos Penguins that included two copulating.

Back on board mid morning we went looking for whales and found a large roqual of which we had several good views. It was quite likely a Bryde’s Whale but we did not manage to see the diagnostic three longitudinal ridges on the head, which would distinguish it from the very similar Sei whale that also occurs in these waters.

A late morning zodiac cruise along the cliffs yielded great views of a Flightless Cormorant, several more Galapagos Penguins, some nice caves with great views of Common Noddies next to the Zodiac as we navigated inside, several Swallow-tailed Gulls, and many Blue-footed Boobies, but no Galapagos Martins. After lunch some of the party went snorkelling and enjoyed some great fish and close encounters with a Pacific Green Turtle. Others rested on board before it was time for an afternoon walk above the cove. As we landed there were several Flightless Cormorants at the landing spot which gave fantastic photo opportunities, especially the juvenile that was giving a large sea lion a very hard time. We then walked up 150 odd steps at the back of the cove, and round past Darwin’s crater with nice views, and onto a viewpoint of the lava flows and slopes of Darwin Volcano. Unexpectedly in this dry area, a Woodpecker Finch fed in a tree near the viewpoint at the end of the trail, but did not use any tools.

Late afternoon most of us enjoyed another zodiac ride along the bottom of the cliffs with highlights including nesting Brown Pelicans (some had three well-grown chicks), several more Galapagos Penguins, the by now usual suite of Blue-footed Boobies, Swallow-tailed Gulls and Marine Iguanas but again no Galapagos Martins.

Back on board it was a peaceful and beautiful starry night in Tagus Cove, and interestingly we saw some bio-luminescence when swimming sea lions came alongside. Chris also noticed this phenomena when he flushed his loo with the bathroom light off.

The following morning it was just a short ride to be at Punta Espinosa, Fernandina, just after dawn. The rocks were wet and slippery due to the low tide, and covered with masses of Marine Iguanas. We again toyed with collective nouns for the gathering of tangled bodies, variously suggesting an "embrace" a "drapery" or a "clambering"! A short walk around their nesting beach brought us to some nesting Flightless Cormorants, and many more Marine Iguanas, one group had a Lava Lizard that was fond of resting on the iguanas heads, whilst nearby another Lava Lizard was resting on the hind flipper of a dozing sea lion. In the mangrove there were a few Galapagos Hawks, one of which was quite photogenic. The tidal rocks held American Oystercatchers, Semi-palmated Plovers, Ruddy Turnstones, Hudsonian Whimbrel, and we wandered past very interesting rock pools with brightly coloured fish, Pacific Green Turtles, Eagle Rays, even a small octopus… All this was followed by an exploratory walk on the "lava" trail across the ropey or pahoehoe lava and up to the edge of a vast area of sharp and uncrossable sharp or aa-aa lava. It was easy to remember the Hawaiian name!

We spent a relaxing afternoon cruising Banks Bay, north of Fernandina, in search of cetaceans and were successful in finding a large rorqual and saw it surface several times, but again not well enough to be 100% sure it was a Bryde’s Whale. Later we saw an energetic school of Common Dolphins, and we stayed close with them for fifteen minutes or so, with many jumping and leaping. Late afternoon, until dusk, we spent along the cliffs in the zodiacs, again looking for Galapagos Martin. On the rocks, a Galapagos Hawk was busy plucking a medium sized dark bird, probably an Audubon’s Shearwater. High overhead many finches were flying north to roost in the mangrove area. It was a glorious sunset, the dying rim of the sun turned cobalt green briefly (the "green flash") but we had to give up on Galapagos Martin as the light went.

After another long and restful night we spent all the following day at sea, en-route to Genovesa. Another group of Common Dolphins were seen just after a late breakfast, (or perhaps it was the same group as yesterday?) followed by three mystery cetaceans briefly just east of Punta Vicente Roca that may have just been Bottlenose Dolphins or could perhaps have been Dwarf Sperm Whales. They submerged before we got very close and despite a near mirror like sea, were not seen again. Shortly afterwards we saw several Ocean Sunfish (Mola Mola) just NW of the Punta Vicente Roca, just before we crossed the Equator as we headed north. By late morning we approached the appropriately named Roca Redonda (round rock), home to one of the three Galapagos colonies of Wedge-rumped Storm Petrels as well as many Common Noddies, Blue-footed and Masked Boobies and Galapagos Sealions that laying cooling off in the water with flippers extended. We had lunch whilst close to the rock, then, as we headed east towards Tower (Genovesa) a flock of 18 Sooty Terns flew in from the NE. It is the first time that we have recorded this species in five visits to the Galapagos. Meanwhile, three Bottlenose Dolphins lounged close alongside the ship. Later as we sailed east, we did even better, finding a White-faced Storm Petrel amongst the numerous Wedge-rumped Storm Petrels, which were themselves accompanied by a smattering of Madeiran Storm Petrels. There are apparently only three previous documented records of White-faced Storm Petrel in the Galapagos.

Genovesa (Tower Island) the following day was great as ever… Prince Phillip’s Steps in the morning, were preceded by a couple of Galapagos Fur Seals in the shade at the bottom of the cliff, seen from the Zodiacs. We then headed up the steps to see many Nazca Boobies and chicks (nesting on the ground), Red-footed Boobies nesting in the trees, plus our final finch to complete the "set" — namely Sharp-billed Ground Finch, and perhaps best of all - a long time spent on the edge of the Wedge-rumped Storm Petrel colony where literally thousands of birds were constantly in the air. A single Short-eared Owl kept careful watch on those landing but was not a successful hunter this morning. Afterwards, some deep water snorkelling with many good fish sightings rounded off the morning for those who preferred that to relaxing on the boat.

The afternoon yielded even better photographic opportunities than the morning, and some of the group enjoyed some swimming off the beach first. We had a short walk past some mangrove trees at the back of the beach where Red-footed Boobies were breeding in some numbers. These, and Lava and Swallow-tailed Gulls all gave great photo opportunities in the late afternoon light. Just a few hundred yards along the coast we found two Large Cactus Finch (of a different race to those we had seen before) and two Large Ground Finches too. As we returned to the landing spot it was an idyllic sunny evening and it was hard to prise ourselves from the deserted beach.

Up early on our last morning we visited North Seymour and just a couple of hundred yards from the boat we had fantastic views of Magnificent Frigatebirds, several males with inflated pouches, gazing skywards and noisily trying top attract any female that flew over. They gave great photo opportunities for those with longer lenses and digiscopers alike. Unusually two Red-footed Boobies flew over (the second time that I have seen the species here). Soon we were back on board, enjoying breakfast and getting ready to leave for Quito. Maurice joined us for the short ride to the airport and checked us all in, and then bought his ticket and flew with us as far as Guyaquil. We bade goodbye to him, very grateful for all his hard work and knowledge that he shared with us so freely and enthusiastically.

A couple of the keener birders enjoyed some final late afternoon birding in Quito in the streets and the park close to the hotel netting Vermilion Flycatcher, Great Thrush, two species of hummingbird: Sparkling Violetear and the much more dramatic Black-tailed Trainbearer, plus a few Brown-bellied Swallows, a Cinerous Conebill, and the ubiquitous Eared Doves and Rufous-collared Sparrows.

We headed back to the hotel for drinks in the bar and a celebratory meal to round off a great trip in suitable style. We are looking forward to repeating this trip again next year with David Rosair as leader, and hope to have a great chance of seeing all the endemic species on a very similar itinerary to this year’s. I’m looking forward to being in Arctic Canada at that time, leading the first WildWings tour to Baffin Island. We expect highlights to include Polar Bear, Bowhead Whale, Beluga, and perhaps best of all, Narwhals (as well as some arctic birds!)