Trip Report by Dave Fell – Tour Leader

Summary

The November WildWings tour to Goa lived up to all expectations, with 9 participants enjoying sun, food, birds and above all having great fun. A group total of 252 species being recorded during the two weeks based at the Beira Mar Hotel in Baga. Visits were made to all the birding hot spots either by local taxis or by arrangements with our local guides.

I met the group at Gatwick and instantly knew that the trip would be successful as within a few minutes the group were one as if they had done all this together before.

Day 1
We arrived at the hotel mid-morning on the Sunday after a smooth direct flight and having checked into our rooms with balconies overlooking the Baga fields were soon enjoying the first Indian birds in clear skies and temperatures in the high 20’s. Black and Brahminy kites, White-throated Kingfishers, Black-capped Kingfisher, Green, Blue-throated and Chestnut-headed Bee-eaters, House Swifts, Spotted Doves, Indian Pond
Herons, Black Drongos, Jungle Mynas and White-rumped Munias to name but a few.

Today was also a great day for raptors with White-bellied Sea Eagle, Black Eagle, Lesser-spotted Eagle, Booted Eagle, Changeable Hawk Eagle and Shikra all being seen from the pool area.

A walk across the Baga fields produced Long-tailed Shrike, Pintail Snipe, Paddyfield Pipit and a superb male Pallid Harrier. Several Watercock were also seen on the marsh from the poolside in the fading light.

We celebrated a long and successful day with a few beers and our first Goan meal (cost: £3.50!).

Day 2
The next day saw us take the short journey to Candolim. Overlooking the river, adjacent marshes and woods we saw Greater Flameback, Small Pratincole, Osprey with fish, Black Stork and hundreds of Gull-billed Terns. In the afternoon a leisurely stroll up Baga Hill produced Oriental Honey Buzzard, Lesser-spotted Eagle, Changeable Hawk Eagle, Small Minavet and Asian Paradise Flycatcher. As we returned an obliging Jungle Owlet called and showed in the huge Banyan tree in the gathering gloom.

Day 3
The following day commenced with a visit to Moarjim Beach by way of the new land bridge. The weather was much cooler with sporadic rain for most of the day. On the beach a huge flock of gulls were mainly Brown-



headed with only three large gulls, all Caspians. A few Slender-billed and Black-headed Gulls were found along with Caspian, Lesser-crested and Little Tern. As we ordered drinks from a bar flooded with the tide, our guide Abhi, found a Pallas’s Gull so we all ran off to see it leaving the bar staff with a large order on their hands. Much to their relief we returned to quench our thirst. Also on the beach, was a flock of waders giving good comparable views of Kentish Plover and Greater and Lesser Sandplover. In the nearby fields we flushed a Barred Buttonquail and two Night Herons were roosting in the usual tree.

The afternoon was spent at Aguada Fort overlooking the Mandovi River and the capital Panjim. Birding was rather quiet with the best being White-cheeked Barbet, Pale-billed Flowerpecker and Purple-rumped Sunbird. We ended up at the infamous pitta site but despite extensive searching failed to see Indian Pitta, although two birds did ‘take the Michael’ by calling.

Day 4
The day commenced with a visit to Dona Paula, a grassy and rocky plain near Panjim. Good views were had of Oriental Skylark, Ashy-crowned Sparrow Larks, Greater Short-toed Lark, Indian Robins, Yellow-wattled Plover and Richard’s and Paddyfield Pipits. Blyth’s Pipit still eluded us.

We then went to Santa Cruz, an area of working paddyfields and rivers. Temminck’s and Little Stints (in winter plumage), shanks and sandpipers fed on the mud. A few Pacific Golden Plover were present but the Broad-billed Sandpiper was a good find. Two Lesser Spotted Eagles perched in a palm tree and egrets and kites were abundant.

In the afternoon we drove to Carambolim Lake. On the way we stopped at Ceiby Geigy. After climbing onto the roof of some nearby flats we saw two Lesser Adjutant Storks and a Woolly-necked Stork. At the lake we viewed from the railway station, a good spot if the Goan sun is beating down but today was cloudy and getting darker by the minute. The lake held plenty of Purple Swamphens and two species of jacana but where were the ducks? Only a dozen or so of Lesser Whistling Duck, usually there are hundreds. In the nearby fields were Baya Weavers and a few Openbilled Storks. By now we were heading back to the shelter of the bus as the heavens opened and we had heavy rain. The decision to visit a banana plantation to see a roosting Brown Hawk Owl before we went to the lake certainly paid off.

In the evening we dined at the Equinox Restaurant which was arranged by Ian and Ruth. A very successful evening with good food, drink and much merriment.

Day 5
Today was a very relaxed affair. No early start so we had breakfast in the hotel (a much-needed break from packed sandwiches). We made the short drive to Saligao but could not find any Brown Wood Owls. The birding on the walk to and from the spring was something else, birds were everywhere. We saw Oriental Honey Buzzard, Great Spotted Eagle, a female Amur Falcon, Golden-fronted Leafbird, Black-headed Cuckoo Shrike, White-browed Fantail, White-bellied Drongo, Black-naped Monarch, Tickell’s Blue Flycatcher, Grey-headed Bulbul, Brown-cheeked Fulvetta and Plain Flowerpecker. The list goes on.

The afternoon was free and as no-one wanted an organised trip any birding was from the poolside. A Rosy Starling was on the wires with the many mynahs and munias while Watercock and Slaty-breasted Rail were seen in the marsh.

Today was Divali, an Indian festival, and all week whilst on our travels we saw huge colourful paper effegies which were eventually set alight to drive off evil spirits. The celebrations continued throughout the day with fireworks.


Days 6 – 10 Backwoods Camp
For many, if not the whole group, the next five days were the highlight of the entire tour – a visit to Backwoods Camp situated on the edge of the Western Ghats and a far cry from the touristic Goan seaside. Walking through the mature forest, the tranquillity of the Tamdi Surla Temple, raptor watching over the hills, wandering quietly through the camp or playing silly games after a few beers – the entire experience was absolute magic!

In and around the camp were Heart-spotted (Heart-stopping) Woodpeckers, roosting Sri Lanka Frogmouths, Orange-headed Thrush, Nilgiri Blackbird, Red-headed Buntings, Common Hawk Cuckoo and Great, Malabar Grey and Malabar Pied Hornbills. Indian Pitta was also present but proved too elusive.

The forest held Grey Junglefowl, Speckled Piculet, Rufous Woodpecker, Black-rumped and Greater Flamebacks, Oriental and Banded Bay Cuckoos, Grey-headed Fish Eagle, Bar-winged Flycatcher Shrike, Velvet-fronted Nuthatch, Yellow-browed Bulbul, White-bellied Blue Flycatcher, Bronze, Spangled and Greater Rocket-tailed Drongos, White-rumped Shama and Spot-bellied Eagle Owl. Again the list could go on.

At the temple we saw Red Spurfowl, Hoopoe, Vernal Hanging Parrot, Mountain Imperial Pigeon and a large flock of Alpine Swifts. Here a possible Tickell’s Leaf Warbler was the one that got away being seen briefly by the guide and leader before dropping into cover.

At a nearby bridge were Stork-billed Kingfisher, Scarlet Minavets, Malabar Whistling Thrush and three female Pallid Harriers flew over. The raptor watch produced eight species including Shikra Sparrowhawk, three Black Eagles, Oriental Honey Buzzard, displaying Crested Goshawks, Changeable Hawk Eagle, Lesser Spotted and Rufous-bellied Eagles.

One evening after dinner Nick arranged for his “queer aunt to visit”. This was a game that had us all amused and some (Martin) more than baffled. The fun and laughter lasted more than an hour.

Not all of the time was spent birding. One morning the group decided to visit a waterfall. After a short bus trip we transferred to jeeps and were transported through the forest and forded several rivers and streams. On arrival the waterfall, at almost a thousand feet, was spectacular. It fell into a huge pool where people swam to cool off. After returning to camp several couples took the opportunity to take a short elephant ride.

All too soon it was time to leave Backwoods and the camp was that much quieter once the WildWings bandwagon had left town. On the way back to the hotel we called in at Old Goa to look around the cathedral and to see the remains of St. Francis Xavier.

The usual evening vigil over the marsh turned up Slaty-breasted Rail, Watercock and Greater Painted Snipe, viewed from one guest’s rooftop room.

Day 11
Another early start the following morning to catch the first ferry over to Chorao Island and Mayem Lake. In a half-hearted attempt at a “bird race” to beat Pramod’s (a Backwoods Camp partner who lives on the island) day record of 117 species we set off in high spirits which soon flagged because of the scorching heat.

A small flock of Peafowl were seen feeding in a field as we made our way to an area of mangrove and open fields bordering the river. Here we saw Pied Bushchats, Stonechats, Oystercatcher, (which I only heard and was reminded of throughout the day) Marsh Sandpiper, Stork-billed Kingfisher, Clamourous Reed Warbler and Blyth’s Reed Warbler.

At the shrimp farm good views were had of four Lesser Adjutant Storks, Woolly Necked Stork and Glossy Ibis.



After breakfast a walk to the corner of Mayem Lake produced a roosting Grey Nightjar and Common Woodshrike (both brilliantly found by our guide Abhi). Also seen here was Little Spiderhunter, dark phase Booted Eagle, leafbirds, drongos and munias.

After lunch we saw Pompadour Green Pigeon, Black-shouldered Kite, Woolly-necked Stork, Pallid Harrier, Malabar Lark and a Lesser Spotted Eagle perched in a tree at about 100 metres distant.

Back at the ferry was a selection of waders, gulls and duck on a sandbank. These included Gull-billed Terns, Pintail, Grey Plover, Terek Sandpipers, Lesser and Greater Sand Plovers and Osprey. Hundreds of egrets were flighting to roost from the river which made a spectacular sight in the setting sun.

Today everyone took a day off from birding to do their own thing. Some did a tour of Indu temples and a spice farm, some went snorkelling, some shopped whilst others took a well-earned rest on the beach. The evening meal was again taken at the Equinox and organised by Ian and Ruth. On arrival I was surprised to find a party to celebrate my birthday, which was still a week away. We had a special cake and wine (thank you Theresa) and plenty of fun.

Day 12
On the last Friday, the group enjoyed a relaxing boat trip up the Zuari River. Of the six species of kingfisher recorded, the two Collared Kingfishers took pride of place. As we watched a confiding Black-capped Kingfisher a huge Marsh Mugger Crocodile slid into the water not two metres from the boat. Another crocodile was seen further down the river. Other birds seen from the boat were Indian Roller, Lesser and Greater Crested Terns perched together, Lesser Adjutant Stork and sixteen Open-billed Storks in a breeding colony.

On the return journey to the hotel we called in at a lake at Goavelha. Here was a good selection of duck including Cotton Pygmy Goose, Gargamey, Shoveller, Pochard and Ferruginous.

The rest of the day was free. In the evening we went to a beach shack (new for me) and enjoyed an excellent fish barbeque. The beach was lit up and we were entertained by tightrope walkers and gymnasts. After a delicious meal the couples strolled romantically down the starlit beach back to the hotel.

Day 13
The final day saw everyone ‘doing their own thing’ – last minute shopping, snorkelling or local birding – I saw adult Besra and Shikra perched in the trees around the poolside.

This group of people who not only enjoyed the ornithological side of the tour but enjoyed the social side equally as well, if not more, made it a truly memorable holiday rather than a tour. Thanks to each and everyone for making my job so enjoyable and easy.