Lima – Ushuaia aboard M/V Polar Star

A personal account by John Brodie-Good

The southern west coast of South America is heavily influenced by the Humboldt or Peruvian Current, a ‘river’ of cold water in the ocean that comes up from Antarctica.  Combine this with the continental shelf edge close to land and the resultant upwellings, and rich feeding opportunities for both seabirds and cetaceans are provided.  Eleven species of seabird are endemic to this region and we were to see these and much more, plus a total of seventeen definitely identified species of cetacean. Our voyage also included time ashore in both Peru and Chile allowing us to add a number of additional bird species to the pelagic list. The latter part of the voyage travels through the scenically stunning Chilean Fjords region and eventually finishing in Tierra del Fuego with a final landing on Cape Horn itself. This was a recce voyage for us but a great pleasure to travel with many of our most regular and keen sea-watching customers, more a group of friends. This first WildWings voyage has already shown this itinerary to be another essential one for the serious seabirder.

4^th November - UK to Lima

Our non-stop flight from Madrid flew directly over the Amazon basin heading towards Lima, mid-afternoon and a gap in the clouds revealed the mighty river below, with numerous tributaries running into it. Just after 18.00 local time, the big Airbus touched down on the runway. Everyone’s baggage arrived and then off to our hotel for the night. Most of the group felt shattered and we adjourned to the restaurant for dinner before retiring. I tried one of the national specialties, Ceviche; raw fish marinated in lime juice, a hint of chilli and thinly sliced onions washed down with a local cerveza or two, recommended.  

5^th November - Lima (a.m. Pantanos de Villa  p.m. Callao)

The group assembled outside the hotel in readiness for our morning excursion to Pantanos de Villa, a marsh reserve just south of the city. An Amazilia Hummingbird obligingly fed for a few minutes on the big orange flowers growing the balcony of the building next door. A short drive brought us to the coast and the Pacific Ocean. Neotropical Cormorants, Peruvian Boobies and Pelicans were offshore with a number of Band-tailed Gulls on the beaches. A brief stop revealed two Peruvian Seaside Cinclodes before we arrived at the reserve entrance.  Villa Marshes is a flat area with lagoons, water channels and more open dry areas, overlooked by a large shanty town. At the entrance, a Plumbeous Rail gave views in a small pool with Cinnamon Teal and White-cheeked Pintails. Our local guide joined us and we drove further in to look for Peruvian Thickneck, or as the guide called them (Thick-knee). We had only walked in about 100 yards or so and the call went up. We enjoyed good views of three of these superb cousins of our Stone Curlew. An added bonus was someone noticing a small nightjar type bird sitting on the sand, only a few yards in front of us. Another one was flushed and flew off low. A quick check in the field guide revealed them to be Lesser Nighthawks. 

Back into the bus, and a short drive to a small car park where little boats go into the ‘reedy’ channels. Many-coloured Rush-Tyrant was the main target and the boatmen showed the majority of the group a nest with two large youngsters being fed by their parents. A few of us chose to take a short walk on the other side of the road and looked out over a large lagoon with hundreds of bathing birds predominately Franklin’s Gulls, this coast being their main wintering region.  A few Grey-headed Gulls were also noted. Great Grebes, Andean and White-fronted Coots were present on the water, whilst Black Vultures soared overhead. Other birds included various egrets and herons, Puna Ibis, a Least Bittern clambering around in some of the waterside vegetation.  Back to the hotel for lunch and checkout. 

Early afternoon saw us heading for the port of Callao; our adventure was about to begin in earnest. Amongst the huge container and fuel ships sat our home for the next three weeks, the red-hulled expedition vessel Polar Star. Originally a Norwegian icebreaker, now converted for passenger use.  After settling into our cabins we checked the harbour’s waters and adjacent piers for birds. Our first Inca Terns could be seen flying and then resting on the harbour walls. They did not disappoint, although were not easy to photograph. Again, large numbers of Franklins Gull were present. The local security staff quickly banned the use of ‘long lenses’in the docks and so some of us went across the road to the tourist market opposite the ship. The welcome and safety meeting were conducted by the Captain, Expedition Leader Hannah and her team with a glass of champagne and smoked salmon nibbles whilst we listened. Most people went back to their cabins to finish unpacking before dinner whilst I went back out on deck. With the assistance of a tug and local pilot, Polar Star slipped her moorings and started heading out to sea before turning south. A crescent moon with Jupiter next to it shone down from above.  The ship started gently rolling, the familiar sense of excitement as a new oceanic adventure began.

6^th November - Ballestas Islands and Paracas National Reserve (Peru)

As dawn broke, the sea birding began in earnest.  Small groups of Peruvian Boobies, Peruvian Pelicans, a steady stream of Inca Terns (more ‘noddy’-like than ‘terns’) and increasing numbers of Guanay Cormorants passed us by. Elliott’s Storm Petrels flew low over the ocean, a handful of presumably Peruvian Diving Petrels flushed off the sea in front of the ship, and our first Sooty Shearwaters were seen. Our destination loomed out of the mist as the sun started to burn the murk off. Guanay Cormorants were now in streams, thousands of birds including in a feeding frenzy as we came in to anchor in the lee of one of these famous ‘guano islands’. Signs of man’s activity could be seen on many of the islets.

After breakfast into the Zodiacs for a two hour cruise. South American Sealions frequented many of the rocks with groups of animals in the water too.  Cameras clicked as we enjoyed excellent close views of the teeming population of these uninhabited islands, although the mainland could be seen clearly in the distance.  Our first penguins too, Humboldts, in the sea, on a beach and much higher up on one island. A major seabird spectacular complete with all the associated smells. A few speedboats appeared with general tourists from the mainland. 

Late morning and we hauled anchor and headed in to Paracas and it’s National Park. A lone Bottlenose Dolphin was seen close to the shore. An almost two mile Zodiac ride found us ashore after lunch in this small fishing and tourist community.  The ship’s ground agents were ready by the jetty and we soon off into the park proper. This coastline is probably the driest in the world, the edge of the Atacama desert (annual rainfall just over a millimetre - in effect, dew!) One of the most barren landscapes any of us had ever seen, not a plant in sight. We drove the short distance to the park’s museum and walked out to the watchtower overlooking an inlet with mud flats. The heat haze was so severe that of the several thousand birds in front of us, very few could be ID’ed. Seven Chilean Flamingos (two adults, five first years) were visible. Otherwise large numbers of Franklin’s Gulls and many waders sp. could be seen, which was frustrating.

We then continued south of the peninsula and stopped at a cliff top lookout and several deserted bays on the way back. Turkey Vultures soared over the dry land and sea. More Inca Terns, cormorants and boobies, whilst Blackish and American Oystercatchers were also added to the growing trip list. One of the beaches finally yielded some shorebirds we could get to grips with. Turnstones, a flock of Hudsonian Whimbrels plus a few singletons. A flock of ten or so Surfbirds added themselves to a number of the group’s life lists. A small flock of Least Sandpipers contained at least one Semi-Palmated plus a lovely pair of Snowy Plovers. A lone Osprey was seen on several occasions.  A group of about 10 large terns were agreed as Royals. As we drove back to our landing point the desert turned many subtle shades as the sun was lowering in the sky.

7^th November - Early a.m. At sea, Nasca (southern Peru)

We had two hours at sea this morning before arriving in Puerto San Juan. Our first Giant and White-chinned Petrels joined a few more Peruvian Diving Petrels, three Humboldt Penguins and the supporting cast of Peruvian Pelicans, Boobies and various cormorants.  Five or so Humpback Whales were also seen, their under-flukes varying from almost black to almost white. The Zodiacs ferried us quickly to shore, to the slightly squalid settlement of Puerto San Juan where our next ‘birders bus’ awaited us. We drove inland, into this barren, dry landscape, heading for Nasca and it’s airport. We were soon boarding our collection of light aircraft for our 30-minute or so over flight of the world-famous Nasca Lines. The little aircraft banked this way and that so both sides could see the unique markings on the desert below us. Many of us were surprised how small the famous shapes were but overawed by the overall markings, in particular large thin triangles everywhere.

Everyone landed with their breakfast still inside and walked across the road to explore a hotel’s gardens. Lurid Vermillion Flycatchers were busy nesting and feeding. Several handsome Andean Swifts zoomed overhead.  Various finches and Long-tailed Mockingbirds were around plus more Amazilia hummers. A short drive took us to the town’s museum, photos subsequently identifying a female Peruvian Sheartail in the garden. We then headed further east into the interior which was just as barren as the coast. The bus pulled over on a bend and using GPS information we walked up into a dried out riverbed amongst a small group of cactus. Fairly quickly a Cactus Canestero was found, our target bird, the whole group getting views.  On the way back down to the ship we took a dusty side road and almost immediately came across two Peruvian Thick-knees right by the road. After a brief stop for some pixil-fixing, we continued on. The unmistakable shape of a small owl on the other side of the road brought the bus to a halt again. A delightful pair of Burrowing Owls, looking slightly comical with their long legs, their heads switching from straight ahead to ninety degrees left or right with an instant movement.  Time to return to the village and return to the ship.

On the beach whilst we waited the few minutes for the Zodiacs, a Willet, Spotted Sandpiper and a single Grey Plover with the Turnstone and gulls. As we gathered on the back deck for a beer a flock of 35 Black Skimmers suddenly came past and disappeared into the new night.

NB Waved Albatross was not seen at sea during these first two days. This species had been seen in both 2003 and 2004. The Current was two degrees colder than normal this year. 16 were seen the day before the ship arrived in Lima so we didn’t miss them by much!

8^th November - At sea

Our first full day at sea finally yielded some albatross. About 50 Salvin’s, five or so Buller’s and a few Black-broweds (all immatures). Just a taste of what was to come. Our first Cape Petrel too, showing ‘neat’ blocks of white on the upperwing, possibly from the Snares Islands off New Zealand? White-chinned Petrels were in double figures, previous observers’ claims of Westland being identifiable by the fact the birds were in moult, proved erroneous from photographs taken of some of today’s birds. You have to see the bill properly to separate these two species. Similar concerns soon mounted re pterodroma ID when we also had our first birds, approx 15 during the day. As some of the birds twisted and banked some observers claimed dark caps (i.e. leaning towards Stejneger’s) but photos taken clearly showed this being a trick of the light, today’s birds were all De Filippe’s (or Masatierra) Petrels. How you separate White-capped and Salvin’s Albatross in the field was another little mystery to us. Digital photography is hugely helping make ‘difficult’ seabird ID a much more accurate process. Our first Pink-footed Shearwaters too, about 10, lazily gliding over the sea.

But today was Storm-Petrel day. We estimated 700 or so Elliott’s Storm Petrels, about 30 Wedge-rumped but the two star specialties showed in much large numbers. The dark Markham’s, we estimated over 1000 but the biggest prize of all, Hornby’s (Ringed) Storm-Petrel we estimated over 6000 birds! The nesting site of this unique and beautiful little petrel is still unknown; I wonder what percentage of the world’s population we had seen today?  Peruvian Pelicans and boobies were also still present in good numbers and late afternoon we came across patchs of ‘boiling sea’ as hundreds of thousands of anchovies grouped together for safety.

In the morning a Peregrine appeared way out in the ocean, presumably hunting Storm-Petrels to be devoured on the wing. (Similar behaviour noted in the North Pacific some years ago) Hundreds of Red-necked Phalaropes were also seen with a few Grey’s thrown in, winter visitors from their Arctic breeding grounds. Our first Chilean Skuas plus a handful of Long-taileds, a few Arctics and a Pomarine. Five or so Sabine’s Gulls plus the handsome Grey Gulls were seen throughout the day. The Grey Gulls seemed to associate with feeding Pelicans and dolphins. A number of Inca Terns were seen whilst we also noted Black, Elegant, Arctic, possible South American and a probable Peruvian Tern (Little/Least type) as well as a number of terns sp. A single Barn Swallow at sea was a surprise.  South American Fur Seals could be seen laying on their backs with all their flippers and tail in the air.

Late morning the sea was full of feeding Dusky Dolphins, we estimated 500 in all, and late afternoon the cry of ‘whales!’. Another interesting ID scenario. There seemed to be a large single animal and then a cow calf pair. The pair showed all the signs of Sei Whale from the lower deck. Diffuse, bushy blow, blowhole and fin often on the surface together, fin usually the last part of the animals left as it cruised along in the water. The observers on the top deck said they could see white jaw lines and chevrons; They were in fact Fin Whales. Yet again the definitive features of each species need to be seen properly before definite ID can be confirmed. Our group had already split into two to some degree. Some watched from the bridge and bridge wings (light-heartedly known as the ‘bridge kids’), effectively three decks up from the ‘bow boys’. The higher position was much better for spotting cetaceans and viewing whales whilst lower down seemed better for the smaller seabirds and seeing dolphin fin shapes correctly, the angles being quite different on occasions.  A single Minke was seen briefly too and a number of flying fish. Our group radios meant everyone enjoyed the maximum benefits of both positions. Quite a day, seabirds from the Arctic, New Zealand and of course the region we were in.

9^th November  9 - At sea  (a.m. Arica (northern Chile) p.m.)

Dawn saw us a few miles from the northern Chilean city of Arica, also gateway to the sea for Bolivia, which is connected by a railway and now a road. As day started the mournful calls of Grey Gulls flying out to sea overhead could be heard. As we headed in a few Peruvian Diving Petrels flew up from the water and away. As we tied up the ship we were surrounded by Inca Terns, some which landed on the ship, others settled themselves on our ropes and adjacent quayside. A very large number of photos were taken! Some carrying fish which seemed to be being offered to potential partners as love-tokens. Several made seemly brief attempts with their gifts and then instead, happily swallowed them themselves. Soon we boarded our birders bus and headed out south of the city into the barren desert.

We arrived at the Chaca Valley, an area of a few houses and some scrubby vegetation including acacia trees. A few White-crested Elaenias perched conspicuously with the ever present Vermillion Flycatchers. Our main quarry was Tamarugo Conebill, a species only discovered thirty or so years ago. The whole group got good views of a number of them shortly after arriving. Plain-mantled Tit-spinetails were also seen and a Scale-throated Earthcreeper was ‘bouncing’ around the area, not all seeing it.  A few Oasis Hummingbirds were seen well, including a youngster being vigorously feed by it’s parents. A short drive back down the Pan-American Highway brought us to a few more houses, gardens and small fields. Our target here was the critically endangered Chilean Woodstar, a tiny hummingbird. Chris spotted a small hummer on the telegraph wires and we exploded out of the bus to enjoy a male sitting above us. This species is under threat mainly from Oasis Hummingbirds whose range they are encroaching, and compete for the same feeding flowers. We dashed back to town; time being short for a final look for the other hummingbird in the museum’s gardens. With just a minute or so to go before we had to leave, a superb male Peruvian Sheartail finally appeared.

As we left harbour mid-afternoon a small group of Bottlenose Dolphins came in to bow ride, a good omen. A quietish afternoon, still plenty of Markhams and five Hornby’s Storm Petrels were seen today by just a few observers. The first Westland Petrel was finally nailed from the White-chinneds, a digital photo proving the point. The undoubted highlight of the afternoon was an encounter with at least two Blue Whales and the captain turned off course in a slow circle so we could get better views.  The animals seemed to be of the race Pygmy Blue Whale but they were still pretty large. They seemed a smooth blue/grey, not showing the mottled patterning the nominate larger race does. The tailstocks seemed much slimmer too. This was the third year running the ship had come across this species in this same area. A late distant Fin Whale cruising parallel to us ending the day’s sightings.

10^th November - At sea  (Atacama Coast, Chile)

No new seabirds today, but a chance to familiarise ourselves with species already seen. Buller’s Albatross struggled to fly in the calm conditions but simply would not come close to the ship. At least 70 noted with two definite Salvin’s and about 60 sps. Of three giant petrels one was definitely ID’ed as a Southern. Pink-footed Shearwaters seemed to be increasing in numbers too whilst Elliott’s and a few Wedge-rumped Stormies were seen, Where all the Wilson’s recorded previously on this voyage were, we did not know. 10 plus pterodromas passed us by, at least 5 being definite De Filippe’s. We counted over 300 Markham’s Storm Petrels too. Peruvian Boobies and pelicans occasionally passed us by, numbers well down on previous days. Phalaropes too seemed to be in much lower numbers today

Cetaceans included a male Cuvier’s Beaked Whale spotted by Mike, a nice group of 40 or so Pilot Whales sp as well during the morning. Late afternoon and the distinctive forward blows of Sperm Whales could be seen in the distance. The captain again kindly slowed down for an encounter. They seemed quite scattered over the sea however, a group of 10-15 being the largest. At least one sounded nicely revealing its tail flukes as it disappeared into the depths below us.

11^th November - At sea (Atacama Coast, Chile)

Another steady stream of Buller’s Albatross today (many showing signs of moult), over 100 seen plus just over half a dozen immature year Black-browed’s.  A few more Giant Petrels too, all initial signs that as we travelled down the coast, more ‘cold water’ species from the south were starting to appear. A few more Hornby’s Storm Petrels were noted and what was to be our last Markham’s, around 50 or so. Over 650 ‘oceanites’ type Storm-Petrels but unlike previous reports, they all seemed Elliott’s still, our first definite Wilson’s still to be seen.  The group were still generally split with some on the bows (the largely gentle conditions so far allowed this luxury), giving the keen photographers ample opportunity to get good shots of most of the species including the smallest Storm-Petrels. ‘Machine-gun’ Martin eventually went home with over 30GB of images! The gang who leaned towards cetaceans more were up on the bridge deck, on the open area below the bridge itself or the wings although some of us found the vibration up there a little too much on this particular vessel. The first Antarctic (or Southern) Fulmar was seen today and the second Westland Petrel (again from photos). A number of the White-chinned Petrels were showing worn plumage.  A small pod of Dusky Dolphins were seen during breakfast.  

Later in the morning the call on the radio that many of us had dreamed of suddenly came – “rightwhale dolphins!” Five or six of the almost mythical Southern Rightwhale Dolphins had been spotted close to the ship on the port side. The encounter was frustratingly brief, some of us on the front deck only seeing the disturbance in the water, small fish leaping out of the way and smooth black backs as they moved away. Others on the bridge wing enjoyed full, albeit brief views.  A group of about 50 Common Dolphins were seen in a feeding frenzy of Peruvian Boobies later on. The bridge deck spotters also saw a number of unidentified cetaceans, in spite of much discussion and speculation. An interesting looking small whale sp on one side, several beaked whales, and a group of Southern Bottlenose Whales.  Our cetacean list was rising all the time but one always has to accept that many will get away. The birder’s tendency to name everything they see simply does not apply to many cetacean sightings which can often be very brief. Distance and ever-changing light are also huge factors too.

The second big surprise of the day came late afternoon when the scream through the radios came - “Swallow-tailed Gull!” Chris had spotted them on the sea and they took off and flew back behind the ship, dropping away rapidly. We had long thought that we were now too far south for this unique nocturnal feeding gull, but had brief views. I now thought it was time to start hacking up the mackerel we had been given and started throwing pieces off the stern. Paul Harvey kindly took over and soon we had the Swallow-tailed Gulls coming back on us again, giving much better views and photo opportunities, along with some Pink-footed Shearwaters and Kelp Gulls who joined in the free feed. The gulls were an adult and first winter plumage none of us who had been to the Galapagos had seen before. What another wonderful day!

12^th November - Valparaiso (central  Chile)

We woke up still at sea, but only a few miles from today’s destination - Chile’s, and historically one of the South American west coast’s, major ports. A few diving petrels were noted including a bird which flew close to the bows with dusky head sides, suggesting Common but which the books showed would be well north of it’s known range.  A White-crested Elaenia flew around and landed on various parts of the ship, not seeming to notice the coastline nearby.  Two butterflies were sleeping on one of the lights on the back of deck 3. Most of the Chilean navy seemed to be in port and there were multi-coloured houses as far as the eye could see on the hills above.

We loaded up in our next birder’s bus and headed north along the coastline, through the resorts including Vino del Mar to our main site, the estuary of the Aconogua river, seeing our first Austral Thrushes by the side of the road. We stopped on the way at one of the many little rocky outcrops for excellent views of a pair of Chilean Seaside Cincloides which seemed to be nesting in a pipe sticking out of the wall below us. The rocks held Peruvian Pelicans, boobies, a few Inca Terns and a single Red-legged Cormorant. The estuary held a resting flock of about 50 Black Skimmers along with Franklin’s and Kelp Gulls plus South American Terns. Waders included a handful of White-backed Stilts, a few noisy pairs of Southern Lapwings, the odd Hudsonian Whimbrel and two Lesser Yellowlegs.  Our first Caracaras were all Chimangos, the South American equivalent of ‘crows’. We drove around to the north side and entered a farm bordering the reedy part of the estuary. The star birds were a few male Spectacled Tyrants, an all black flycatcher with white around the eye, a whitish bill and white ends to the wings in flight. A handsome pair of Austral Negritos were feeding in the middle of a football pitch and one and a half (one bird was tailless) endemic Chilean Mockingbirds were noted, along with our first Long-tailed Meadowlarks. 

We headed back towards the harbour but stopped for the chance of eating ‘off ship’ in a very pleasant seafood restaurant overlooking some rocks stacked with Brown Pelicans and Kelp Gulls. Most of us enjoyed some fresh fish with fresh salsa and rice or chips, washed down with some very nice Sauvignon Blanc or local beers.

A final stop by a beach for photos of some Grey Gulls and soon we were back on board and sailing south again. More new seabirds this afternoon; our first great albatross, a Northern Royal, plus Matt noted our first Magellanic Penguin amongst the Humboldts as we sailed by. Our first adult Black-browed Albatross, more Antarctic Fulmars, another two Westland Petrels and at least 15 De Philippe’s Petrel, but still no sign of the other two possible pterdromas.  Time was running out for these unfortunately now. Two Sperm Whales were seen late in the day. A Cattle Egret circled the ship just before dusk, finally landing briefly, ironically whilst Simon was giving the evening lecture on birds he had seen land on ships!

13^th November - At sea (central Chile)

Another beautiful calm morning as we steamed steadily south. What we first thought was bits of seaweed ahead of the bows we finally worked out were squid.  A three-foot jet of water from one raising suspicions! Medium sized with a general reddish colour we were surprised to see them during daylight. Perhaps they were breeding, but their presence must have explained nearly 30 Northern Royal Albatross seen today, many of whom seemed too heavy to take off from the water, presumably each one loaded with a Humboldt Squid!  At least 50 Black-broweds were seen and 20 or so Salvin’s Albatross.

The day was also a bit of a cetacean fest, with approx 50 Sperm Whales seen including a number of calves. Three Fin Whales and at least four Humpbacks were also seen, along with two Sei Whales, plus several small whales sp. In the late afternoon over 100 Risso’s Dolphins appeared in at least two groups, their whitish bodies and very scythe-like dorsal fins clearly visible.  An Ocean Sunfish was seen in front of the bows, moving past the starboard side of the ship. Our last Humboldt Penguin was also seen today and over 20 Magellanics. Our highest numbers yet of Giant Petrels, Cape Petrels, Antarctic Fulmars, White-chinned and 45 De Philippe’s Petrels were noted, whilst we estimated over 10,000 Wilson’s Storm-Petrels.  The Elliott’s now definitely further north. Well over 2000 Grey Phalaropes too, no more Red-neckeds.  South American Terns, many in full breeding plumage now, a single Sabine’s Gull and many Sooty and Pink-footed Shearwaters completed another superb day on the Pacific Ocean.

14^th November - Valdivia  (central Chile)

Our first Brown-hooded Gulls were flying past as we dropped anchor in the same bay Darwin had landed many years before.  Unlike the great scientist’s visit, the seabirds were not flying inland, or the local dogs running up the hills - all signs of the impending earthquake he experienced.  However this region was hit by a Tsunami back in 1960 and we were to see several signs of it still today. The group’s radios crackled with the words “dolphins” and we rushed up back on deck after breakfast to see if we could nail them. Three or four unobtrusive dorsal fins and backs could be seen appearing on the left hand side of a small island ahead of us. The small animals exhibited rather rounded dorsals and with mounting excitement we realized here was another of our targets, Chilean or Black Dolphins. Our group was quickly in two Zodiacs and we went over to take a better look, some even obtaining photos.

After enjoying the dolphins we left them in peace and headed over to a shoreline where a large flock of Black-necked Swans could be seen. On the shoreline a flock of Sanderlings and a few Dark-bellied Cincloides, whilst up in the trees above a flock of parakeets. These were the endemic Slender-billed, their long upper mandibles clearly visible. We then went up-river towards the town, a mile or two inland. Our other main quarry here was Trudeau’s or Snowy-crowned Terns. Almost immediately a pair flew over, heading down river and Simon’s Zodiac made an ambitious but futile attempt to keep up with them. We carried on past a wrecked ship (from 1960) and soon were taking photos of an obliging Ringed Kingfisher perched in trees on the southern side and a large flock of Black-faced Ibises, feeding in a riverside garden. Simon’s Zodiac had now gone ahead again and they soon radioed us to say that they had another tern, this time fishing in a side tributary. We raced across the main channel and beach-landed to try and get some decent views. Within minutes of arriving the tern flew off with a fish, further upriver.  We waited for a few minutes but it did not come back. Most terns are special, these became a firm favourite with their black eye-masks and tri-coloured bills. We reboarded and cruised further upriver, taking a side channel with reeds and little tree covered islets. Great Grebes seemed extremely common; we came across a pair, each with a youngster on their backs. Our first Cocoi Heron flew from a nearby tree whilst overhead a pair of Variable Hawks quickly spiralled upwards out of sight. An area of sticks poking out of the water each seem to have a Hudsonian Whimbrel perched on top, about 100 in all.

We rejoined the main channel, which then widened out to a marshy area which contained hundreds of Brown-hooded Gulls about to begin their breeding season. Thankfully here were two or three more Trudeau’s Terns, a chance to fully enjoy them and take some decent photos at last, as they fished up and down the main river channel. The two Zodiacs then split up, the others doing some land birding ashore whilst we pottered back slowly to the ship. The wind had now come up a bit so no more dolphins were on view.  We got close to a group of Peruvian Boobies on a rock; these were to be nearly our last. As we hauled anchor and headed south again, a number of Red-legged Cormorants flew close past the bows.

Late afternoon and a large blow was spotted ahead, in spite of seeing it a number of times we never saw the animal so it went down as a Blue or Fin Whale. We had now ended our time in the Humboldt Current proper, and would be entering the final stage of our voyage.

15^th November - Puerto Montt and Petrohue  (Central Chile)

Early morning found us just north of this small port, a radio shout of ‘dolphins’, and in the wake behind the ship four or five animals could be seen, their black faces identifying them as Peale’s Dolphins, yet another species to our double-figured list, and a new one for many. Our first Imperial Shags had also been noted flying low over the sea. On the minus side our last Franklin’s Gulls, winter visitors from North America and which we had seen every day from Lima southwards. We boarded our next birders bus and headed inland, yet again on the Pan American Highway. The area was settled by Germans originally, one of their low points was introducing Gorse and we drove mile after mile through yellow-flowered countryside. We were soon along the shores of Lake Llanquihue, the third largest in South America. You could not see the other side; it seemed more like a sea.

We then entered the Parque Nacional Vincente Perez Rosales and started climbing along the side of the Petrohue River whilst the snow-capped peak of the volcano peeked out from behind the clouds for a few minutes. Passing the falls, the road turned into a track and we parked up by some rapids and birded on foot. Our target was the unique Torrent Duck, able to feed and live on this incredibly fast flowing ice cool mountain water.  No luck.  We re-boarded the bus and drove on again and tried slightly higher up. It was harder to see over the river here and we eventually came to a dried up side bed and could get down to the waterside.  Angus finally called our target, a stunning male (of the southern form) resting on a rock whilst the waters raged around him. We carefully stalked the duck for photos, as close as we dared without flushing it. 

Our local guide, Diego then suggested a small forest track he knew for some of the woodland birds. We filed into this wonderful temperate rainforest and we were soon admiring a stunning Chucao Tapaculo as it rushed around its territory, either hopping around on the ground, or along fallen tree trunks, sometimes singing loudly from cover - a real cracker! Diego also tried calling in Black-throated Huet Huets but despite his noble and persistent efforts, no joy, although some members of the group heard a distant bird. Many of the group saw our last hummingbird species, Green-backed Firecrown. Time ashore always seemed too quick and we were soon in the bus heading back towards port. A brief stop at Puerto Varas yielded a Silvery Grebe or two on the lake shore whilst many of the group grabbed a ‘real’ coffee and ice-cream and others bought penguin souvenirs. 

16^th November - Seno Aysen and Pelluche Channels  (Chilean Fjords)

Sunshine greeted the early morning risers as we now steamed into the last sector of our great voyage, the world famous fjords and mountains of southern Chile. At times we were sailing through channels miles wide, at other times only just wider than the ship (which sometimes involved waiting for slack tides before moving on.) An area largely of natural wilderness, with a very low human population. Most of the islands and shorelines covered in dense native forest, thin waterfalls running down the steeper slopes and snow-capped peaks appearing now and then. Even though we were protected from the ocean by islands on our western side a number of seabirds were to be found, sometimes in very large numbers still. Over 300 Black-browed Albatrosses today, a steady trickle of Magellanic Penguins, the occasional Giant and White-chinned Petrels, still good numbers of Sooty and fewer Pink-footed Shearwaters, our very last Peruvian Boobies, whilst Imperial Cormorants were now quite common.  A distant group of dolphins finally passed the ship heading north, 30 or so Peale’s. A distant accipitor soaring over a small island could only be a Chilean Hawk but unsatisfactory views only. 

Late morning and we enjoyed a short Zodiac cruise and landing in a group of small islands called Cinco Hermanos.  The two birder’s Zodiacs drifted quietly with a Fire-eyed Diucon perched high on a tree. A superb call by Tony got most people on a White-throated Treerunner flying between the islands. We moved around the back of another island to try and ID a sitting raptor when the shout of “woodpecker” came from the other Zodiac. There, at the top of a dead tree, hanging upside down was the big one, a male Magellanic Woodpecker, his black plumage and flaming red crested crown for all to see even at this range. Everyone got onto it before it dropped away, showing its white wing lines as it flew. A short beach walk revealed another Ringed Kingfisher and a few similar birds to those we had been seeing in the last few days. A few of the brave enjoyed a dip in a very small area of hot springs on the shore of another island although I was assured the water around it was extremely cold, and the spring extremely hot. 

The rest of the day was spent steaming steadily through this beautiful landscape with several new species starting to appear as we headed for our ultimate destination, Tierra del Fuego. Our first Steamer Ducks, agreed to be Flightless after some debate. A few white male Kelp Geese and at least two Dolphin Gulls. Small parties or pairs of South American Terns with the occasional Chilean Skuas were also seen. After dinner a warning from the ship that we were to sail through the Penas Gulf and that it could be a bit lively. The warning was spot on and just before dark Polar Star started rolling and pitching as we hit the open ocean again. At least the seabirds got their first real chance to fly, Black-browed Albatrosses finally moving at speed and banking and turning over the real waves and troughs.

17^th November English Narrows and Puerto Eden (Chilean Fjords)

We had been incredibly lucky with the weather so far and it was now time for a change. The gulf had been a very rocky night, by far the roughest and most people had problems sleeping until it finally started to calm in the early hours. The first hour of daylight found us still in the gulf with the promise of being back in the lee of the fjords by breakfast. It was also raining which it continued to do for the entire day. Large whale blows off the starboard side had to go down as Blue/Fin again, no sign of the animals in these heaving seas. At eight o’clock on the dot, the ship stopped moving and we re-entered the fjord system but still with large numbers of seabirds. We estimated over 1000 Black-browed Albatrosses today, thousands of Wilson’s Storm-Petrels, lots of Sooty Shearwaters still and fair numbers of Giant and White-chinned Petrels, Antarctic Fulmars and a few Cape Petrels, whilst over 50 Magellanic Diving Petrels were noted.

The morning belonged to Westland Petrels though, most now clearly in moult and we thought at least 1500+ birds which could be a fair percentage of their world population, certainly far more than ever seen on this voyage before.  As one of the group said, it seems odd that a bird that breeds in similar habitat (NZ) should migrate across the Pacific to winter.  More of the new species were seen, over 50 Flightless Steamer Ducks, quite a few Kelp Geese and three Magellanic Oystercatchers in the late afternoon.

A short landing was made by most passengers at the small settlement of Puerto Eden. I stayed on board ship as the driving rain did not appeal to my head cold, which I was trying to shake. After a short nap I went out on the back of deck 5, under the only cover from the rain, to scan the adjacent islands and shores. I could hear the occasional bird sightings on the radio from the group ashore. The sound of a blow turned my head to the right and I was astonished to be looking at a huge male Orca only 200 yards from the ship, whilst the rest of his pod broke the surface of the calm waters.  There had simply been no warning and they started moving away towards the end of the closest island. Almost immediately a Zodiac was behind them in hot pursuit and the animals re-breathed several times before apparently vanishing for some time. I then realised I had heard nothing on the group’s radios, and called them. Puerto Eden was a granite lump and many of the group sadly did not hear the call. Meanwhile a local boat had gone out with the Zodiac but no sign of the whales. After five minutes both boats moved further away beyond the island in search of the animals. Suddenly they surfaced again, they had been ‘hiding’ exactly where they had gone down last.  They now started moving away and to the north and the Zodiac and local boat caught up with them again. A second Zodiac was now heading out to them but I’m not sure how close they got. Most of our group missed them, although a few scoped them from the shore.

After our bird log Tony gave everyone an impromptu illustrated talk on Torres del Paine National Park, our destination for the day after tomorrow.

18^th November - Montanes Fjord and Kirke Narrows (Chilean Fjords)

Does it ever stop raining here? Another day of squalls, rain showers and hail. Many of the mountain tops had fresh light falls of snow. Most of the morning a bitter wind was blowing but none of this took away from the scenic drama around us, in fact it added to it. One minute dark and foreboding, the next the sun glinting off rock faces as if they were made of marble. A day of rainbows too including a mini one which seemed only a few feet above the sea. A quieter day for birds but as always a few new additions. The odd Black-browed Albatross and Giant Petrel soaring over the waters, often high in front of the mountainsides.  A few Rock Shags whilst small flocks of Imperial Cormorants passed by all day. Good numbers of South American Terns, in full breeding plumage, red bills and super clean grey and white plumage, often with handsome Chilean Skuas hassling them.

After an early lunch our first glaciers, two small ones, one which still reached down to the water’s edge. The second, Bernal, which was already retreating with moraine and vegetation in front. Still trying to shake my cold, I again remained onboard whilst most of the group went ashore. Luckily for most of the their landing the sun shone. Highlights included a very tame Rufous-chested Dotterel and Baird’s Sandpiper on the beach. A few land birds were seen including Bar-winged Cincloides, Dark-faced Ground Tyrant, and for a lucky few, a Magellanic Tapaculo. 

The captain curtailed the landing by sounding the ship’s horn a number of times. Pete came into my cabin and simply said “condors”. I raced outside and called the news out on the group’s radios. High above the opposite snow-covered crags a few dots could be seen soaring. As a pair spiralled down into a ravine the white upperwing patches and white neck ruff could at last be seen, the king of the Andes at last. We hauled anchor and moved position, ready to pass through the Kirke Narrows at slack water mid-evening. More condors were seen, including a close pair over a nearby hill side, all had reasonable views at last. Just as we went through the narrows another condor flew low over us whilst off the starboard bow our first porpoising penguins, four Magellanics.  As the ship continued on to Puerto Natales, many of the group retired early, in preparation for our long day ahead.

19^th November - Torres del Paine National Park (southern Chile)

Graham and I knocked on cabin doors at 04.10 to make sure everyone was up for breakfast at 04.30. Our bus and guide were already waiting on the quayside, the strongest wind of the trip so far blowing outside. Many fell asleep again as we drove north on the good dirt road, heading for this world-famous region, which was over 100kms away. Our first brief stop was the ‘condor roost cliffs’ and though it was only really starting to get light, it was clear nobody was home. We drove on, the daylight brightening all the time. We soon pulled up again and piled out of the bus, a gathering of condors just by the road on a dead sheep.  None of us expected the views we got of up to 14 birds - very close indeed. In springtime they are known to come down from their high mountain kingdoms in search of dead spring lambs and calves.  Photos and videos were taken including some soaring against the classic backdrop of the snow-capped pinnacles, which had emerged from the gloom in the distance.  Rain was very much again the order of the day with frequent showers. 

Back in the bus and onwards, moving into more flat open country. It wasn’t long before the first rheas and Gunacos were sighted, the subject of a few more roadside stops. We only had the one day here and with great discipline drove on to the park proper. Our first stop was at a marshy lagoon, just north of Lago Sarmiento and we had an hour or so to explore the immediate area. Most of the group sat down quietly and tried to tape in Austral Rail, formerly thought to have become extinct in 1948 but recently rediscovered. Not unlike a Water Rail, a bird got tantalisingly close to the edge of the reeds but did not show itself. Incredibly however, they picked up a recently dead bird on the water’s edge! It showed signs of peck marks on the head, perhaps the victim of a vicious flight over territory or a ‘lady’ rail. We handed it in to one of the park scientists at the headquarters later in the day. Meanwhile a few us birded the margins of the area, seeing a variety of birds. In spite of signs of frost on the ground it was spring here, Black-faced Ibis and Upland Geese were in the early stages of nesting. Out on the water, White-tufted and Silvery Grebes, Andean and other duck could be seen. On the wet and dry margins, South American Snipe, Scaled-throated Earthcreeper, Bar-winged Cincloides, Grass Wren, a Correndera Pipit and a lone male Peregrine flew along the scarp slope above us.

All too soon, back on the bus and further into the park. We passed a number of lakes and pools, large and small. As our guide had remarked, each one a different colour varying from cold grey, pale sky blue to turquoise. A stop at Laguna Los Cisnes yielded both Black-necked and a handful of Coscoroba Swans. A pair of Chilean Flamingos roosted on one of the islands, along with a Flying Steamer Duck. Various ducks could be seen and passerines included more earthcreepers, Dark-faced and Cinnamon-bellied Ground Tyrants and the occasional condor overhead.  Onwards and a call of “stop” from Simon produced two Spectacled Ducks on another small lake. A brief stop, in yet another rain shower for the world’s most expensive coffee and breakfast muffins, and on towards the park’s main HQ. Here we spent a few minutes photographing Chilean Swallows, hawking low over the water. Our furthest destination was going to be the tourist pot of Largo Grey, where the huge glacier calves icebergs into the lake. 

Another stop on the way, at the campsite, again in pouring rain. Here we found very approachable Austral Parakeets, feeding on dandelion seed heads. A pair of Chilean Flickers landed on a tree in front of us. The group split up looking for the other woodpecker species. As I walked forward a bird flew onto a tree in front. As I put my bins up I could see half a bird, the other half was in a hole. Expecting a woodpecker I realised I was looking at the back end of a small owl. Calling the rest of the group on the radios we enjoyed superb views of an Austral Pygmy Owl, its fake black ‘eyes’ on the back of it’s head very noticeable.

Onto Largo Grey in time for another downpour. Most crossed the bouncy suspension bridge to walk through the beech forest to view the glacier and lake. I hung around the car park and photographed some of the commoner birds. We started heading back mid-afternoon, a few short stops on the way including for a Red and Grey Fox (!) returning to the ship around 19.00.

Another night in port meant a rare chance to eat off ship, so the majority of us walked down to one of the restaurants on Puerto Natale’s waterfront.  Most opted for King Crab with avocado followed by a local steak washed down with plenty of Chilean wine. A fine feast for about £15

a head.

20^th November - Kirke Narrows and the Magellan Strait (Chilean Fjords)

Early morning found us holding off the narrows again, waiting for the slack tide to proceed through. Two or three Andean Condors could be seen soaring on high. There had been more snow overnight on some of the peaks. A number of the passengers boarded the Zodiacs and went ahead to watch the ship navigate the very tight corners of this passage. A number of our group commented on how noisy the ship was as she passed by. This could explain the reluctance of a lot of the seabirds and cetaceans to come, or stay close.

It was a day of squalls and rain showers again. A lone Humpback was the highlight of the morning, hopefully not lost in the fjord system. Otherwise the same birds, Black-browed Albatross, Giant Petrels, Imperial Shags, Kelp Geese, the occasional Flightless Steamer Ducks, South American Terns and Chilean Skuas.

In the afternoon we turned into the Straits of Magellan and started heading east, a much wider channel. A single Salvin’s Albatross made a change from the Black-broweds.  Most of the group watched the incredible film, ‘Around the Horn’ with black and white footage from 1929, without spoiling it; those were the days when men were definitely men!

21^st November - The Beagle Channel and Garibaldi Glacier  (Chilean Fjords)

A much drier day, but very cold in the morning. This morning we moved from the Canal Cockburn into the Beagle Channel, and continued heading east. Many more Black-browed Albatrosses, and mostly adults now. Antarctic Fulmars started to appear again, in small flocks and pairs. Three or four Orcas were seen in the distance, close to the waters edge. A couple of short ‘ocean’ stretchs and our ship began to pitch and roll again. A few White-chinned and Cape Petrels, a Wilson’s Storm Petrel, and a fair number of diving petrels, mainly Magellanic but a few Commons too.  At two points when we could see out into the open ocean there were hundreds of albatrosses and giant petrels in the distance, if only we could have gone out there.

All too soon back into the calm fjord waters and the same birds all over again. The ‘bridge watchers’ scanned for any sign of small cetaceans along the water’s edge and in areas of kelp whilst I occasionally scanned the slopes and crags above in a futile attempt to jam a Puma, the ultimate land predator in these parts. A few more penguins today - Magellanics.

Late afternoon and we arrived at the Garibaldi Glacier. Much more impressive than the two small glaciers a few days back. Down went the Zodiacs and we enjoyed just over an hour’s walk on the beach and native forest. Birding was hard going though with a Dark-faced Ground Tyrant being the seen highlight. At least two Magellanic Tapaculos were calling but in spite of patience and Chris’s tapes (wrong race?) no views. A second short Zodiac cruise for some just before dusk at the Italia Glacier. We headed east again, into the night, with high hopes for tomorrow and the bottom of the world.

22^nd November - Cape Horn (Chile)

First light found us leaving the eastern end of the Beagle Channel and heading south. Just coming into the channel from the east was a familiar shape, the Mikheev, a ship we have used for our Spitsbergen tours in the past. Within the first hour of the day it was clear we had seen more birds than the last few days put together. We were in the Atlantic Ocean now, and later in the day would briefly be back in the Pacific and the Southern Ocean, the northern part of the infamous Drake’s Passage.

It was the coldest morning yet. In every direction we could see Sooty Shearwaters and Black-browed Albatross, our day totals ended up as thousands of each. A fair number of Antarctic Fulmars and Cape Petrels were also present. The first of a number of small groups of dolphins were called, presumably Peale’s. They would head for the bows and then suddenly vanish, the noise of the ship must be the cause? Angus spotted a lone Manx Shearwater amongst the Sootys and shortly after I called the first Grey-headed Albatross of the day, about four being seen in total. A distant great albatross looked good for a Southern Royal. Large numbers of Imperial Cormorants were also seen all day, the birds managing to feed on the fairly turbulent waters.  A number of colonies were noted throughout the day on various uninhabited islands. Sometimes we would come across great rafts of Sooty Shearwaters resting on the sea, with a few Black-browed Albatrosses mixed in. The wind and swell meant the seabirds really were behaving like seabirds, flapless flying over the waves and troughs, sometimes at great speed.

Mid-morning and we anchored in the lee of our final destination, Cape Horn, nearly 56 degrees south. Even in the lee the swell was impressive and a determined expedition team announced we would indeed be going ashore. The first few Zodiacs were loaded from the gangway but even with Polar Star’s maneuvering abilities it was becoming very dangerous. But the ship had a trick up it’s sleeve. The gangway was pulled up and then each Zodiac was loaded with four passengers only, suspended above the sea by deck 3 and then lowered into the sea by crane. A short bouncy ride got us to the narrow pebble beach below the Chilean base and then up the wooden steps to the top of the island. We walked over to the famous Albatross monument and took photos of each other and gazed southwards into the Drake Passage. The special poem at the monument is worth quoting:

“I am the albatross that awaits you at the end of the Earth. I am the forgotten soul of the dead sailors from all the seas of the Earth who rounded Cape Horn, they did not die in the fury of the waves, but fly today on my wings towards eternity in the cry of the Antarctic winds”.     Sarah Vial.

Many more albatrosses and shearwaters could be seen offshore. A brief walk around the buildings overlooking the lighthouse and then a group photo by the ‘Cabo Horno’ sign. We retraced our steps slowly back down the wooden stairs and finally starting seeing the island’s specialties. An adult Striated Caracara flew by for all to see. Most of the group finally got views of a Magellanic Tapaculo which actually responded to Chris’s tapes. A few of the group had seen a Blackish Cincloides on the ride in, actually flying out and landing and feeding on the kelp floating in the bay.  A Thorn-tailed Rayadito also showed well briefly to a few of the group. Mike spotted a young Marine Otter too.

Another lively but short Zodiac ride back to the ship and a winch up on the crane again, all safely back on board. The captain sailed through the centre of the island group whilst we ate lunch and then swung around the western side. We were finally going to round Cape Horn, from the west, and for the few minutes it took it got very lively indeed! A bonus for several of the group was a few Rockhopper Penguins in the water around the ship. And then in the afternoon, heading back north for the Beagle Channel again, seabirds all the way.  In particular the numbers of Cape Petrels swirling around the ship built up. By late afternoon we were back in the shelter of the Beagle Channel and heading west for our disembarkation point, having travelled nearly 3800 nautical miles since we left Lima.

23^rd November - Ushuaia (Argentina)

We had stopped briefly off the Chilean port of Purto Williams to clear out of Chile. At 04.00 many were awoken by a loud bang. I peered out of my cabin window blearly-eyed to see we were already tied up at the quay in Ushuaia. On the other side was the gleaming white vessel Akademik Ioffe, the ship we use for our Baffin Island and Antarctica, the Falklands and South Georgia tours. Back to sleep until 06.00 and then up for our final breakfast and disembarkation.

We were not surprised it was raining again as we drove away from the port in our last birder’s bus of the trip. Tony was finally doing a bit of tour-leading and we headed for one of the area’s key sites, the abattoir outfall! Dolphin and Kelp Gulls, ducks and Kelp Geese but no caracaras, our target. Only one thing for it, the rubbish dump next. Success, and not only a number of White-throateds but a stunning Southern Crested Caracara, plus the usual Chimangos. Time was running out and so we drove over the west of town and spent our last half hour’s birding on the shores of the Beagle Channel, then ham and cheese sandwiches and coffee before heading for the airport and the long journey home.

Species list

Seabirds

Humboldt Penguin

Magellanic Penguin

Rockhopper Penguin

Gentoo Penguin

Great Grebe

Northern Royal Albatross

Southern Royal Albatross

Grey-headed Albatross

Black-browed Albatross

Buller’s Albatross

Salvin’s Albatross

Northern & Southern Giant Petrels

Antarctic (Southern) Fulmar

Cape (Pintado) Petrel

White-chinned  Petrel

Westland Petrel

De Filippe’s (Masatierra) Petrel

Pink-footed Shearwater

Manx Shearwater

Sooty Shearwater

Wilson’s Storm Petrel

Elliott’s Storm Petrel

Wedge-rumped Storm Petrel

Markham’s Storm Petrel

Hornby’s (Ringed) Storm Petrel

Peruvian Diving Petrel

Magellanic Diving Petrel

Common Diving Petrel

Peruvian Pelican

Peruvian Booby

Neotropic Cormorant

Guanay Cormorant

Red-legged Cormorant

Rock Shag

Imperial Cormorant

Kelp Goose

Ashy-headed Goose

Flightless Steamer Duck

Red-necked Phalarope

Grey Phalarope

South Polar Skua

Chilean Skua

Long-tailed Skua

Arctic Skua

Pomarine Skua

Band-tailed Gull

Grey Gull

Kelp Gull

Dolphin Gull

Brown-hooded Gull

Franklin’s Gull

Swallow-tailed Gull

Sabine’s Gull

Black Skimmer

Elegant Tern

South American Tern

Arctic Tern

(probable Peruvian Tern)

Black Tern

Inca Tern

NB Waved Albatross, Steigner’s & Juan Fernandez Petrels have been seen on this voyage in previous years. (WA & JFP were seen north of Callao this year.)

Landbirds on or around the ship

Cattle Egret

Barn Swallow

Blue and White Swallow

Grassquit sp

White-crested Elenea

Marine Mammals

South American Sealion

Southern Fur Seal

Marine Otter

Dusky Dolphin

Long-beaked Common Dolphin

Bottlenose Dolphin (offshore race)

Risso’s Dolphin

Chilean (Black) Dolphin

Southern Rightwhale Dolphin

Peale’s Dolphin

Sperm Whale

Pilot Whale sp

Fin Whale

Sei Whale

Minke Whale

(Pygmy) Blue Whale

Orca

Humpback Whale

Cuvier’s Beaked Whale

Southern Bottlenose Whale

Other wildlife at sea

Flying Fish sp

Anchovies

‘Humboldt’ Squid

Ocean Sunfish (Mola Mola)

Selected Land birds

Darwin’s (Lesser) Rhea

Great Grebe

Silvery Grebe

White-tufted Grebe

Cocoi Heron

Least Bittern

Puna Ibis

White-faced Ibis

Black-faced Ibis

Chilean Flamingo

Black-necked Swan

Coscoroba Swan

Upland Goose

Flying Steamer Duck

Speckled Teal

Spectacled Duck

Crested Duck

Yellow-billed Pintail

Red Shoverler

Andean Duck

Lake Duck

White-cheeked Pintail

Chileo Wigeon

Torrent Duck (southern form)

Harris’s Hawk

Variable Hawk

White-throated Hawk

Chilean Hawk

Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle

Andean Condor

Cinerous Harrier

Southern Crested Caracara

Chimango Caracara

Striated Caracara

American Kestrel

Plumbeous Rail

(Austral Rail –  deceased)

Andean Coot

White-winged Coot

Red-fronted Coot

Red-gartered Coot

American Oystercatcher

Blackish Oystercatcher

Magellanic Oystercatcher

Peruvian Thicknee

Southern Lapwing

White-backed Stilt

Snowy Plover

Rufous-chested Dotterel

(Hudsonian) Whimbrel

Willet

Surfbird

South American (Megellanic) Snipe

Grey-headed Gull

Royal Tern

Trudeau’s (Snowy-crowned) Tern

Chilean Pigeon

Pacific Dove

Croaking Ground Dove

Slender-billed Parakeet

Austral Parakeet

Burrowing Owl

Austral Pygmy Owl

Andean Swift

Amazilia Hummingbird

Green-backed Firecrown

Oasis Hummingbird

Peruvian Sheartail

Chilean Woodstar

Ringed Kingfisher

Chilean Flicker

Magellanic Woodpecker

Coastal Miner

Scale-throated Earthcreeper

Chilean Seaside Cincloides

Peruvian Seaside Cincloides

Dark-bellied Cincloides

Bar-winged Cincloides

Blackish Cincloides

Thorn-tailed Rayadito

Chucao Tapaculo

Magellanic Tapaculo

Rufous-tailed Plantcutter

White-crested Elaenia

Tufted Tit-Tyrant

Vermilion Flycatcher

Fire-eyed Diucon

Dark-faced Ground Tyrant

Cinnamon-bellied Ground Tyrant

Spectacled Tyrant

Cinerous Conebill

Tamarugo Conebill

Patagonia Sierra-Finch

Lesser Nighthawk

Vermillion Flycatcher

Cactus Canestero

Many-coloured  Rush Tyrant

Wren-like Rush Bird

Austral Negrito

White-throated Treerunner

Correndera Pipit

Grass (Sedge) Wren

Chilean Swallow

Blue and White Swallow

Long-tailed Mockingbird

Chilean Mockingbird

Austral Thrush

Patagonian Sierra-Finch

Grey-headed Sierra-Finch

Rufous-collared Sparrow

Yellow-winged Blackbird

Slender-billed Finch

Peruvian Meadowlark

Long-tailed Meadowlark

Austral Blackbird

Saffron Finch

Plain-mantled Tit Spinetail

Parrot-billed Seedeater

Hooded Siskin

Black-chinned Siskin

Land mammals

European Hare

Gunaco

Andean Fox

Special thanks to Simon Cook, Chris Collins, Graham Tucker, Angus Wilson and Tony Marr for making this expedition such a success.

Next departures 3^rd – 22^nd November 2006 from £2959pp and 2^nd – 21^st November 2007 from £3179pp, excludes international flights. Bookings and more info 0117-937-5680 or wildinfo@wildwings.co.uk

www.wildwings.co.uk