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WILDWINGS LINKS
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ATLAS
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A trip report by John Brodie-Good
It was a damp early February evening when I flew from Bristol Airport to Madrid on Tom’s ‘flag carrier’ Easyjet. He has been a good client for the more than 10 years since WildWings started and it was high time I met the man himself. I was greeted by a bespectacled taller man than I was expecting and within a few minutes knew it was going to be an exciting weekend. We headed south out of Madrid for his home about two hours drive away in his Landcruiser, the vehicle he uses for his small group tours (maximum 4 clients only). Arriving late at night in a foreign location is always intriguing as the next morning always brings light and the real picture. The architect designed house was built about 16 years ago and is built in a local style and very tastefully decorated and furnished throughout, you felt instantly at home. Some late soup and a cold meat platter washed down with some very pleasant ‘vino’ and to bed.
We have started selling his trips in our current 2005 brochure and two main itineraries are on offer. See here for details Spring and Early winter breaks based at his home, India Alta, birding in South Central Spain plus he then offers a series of trips in the Pyrenees. Tom can basically show you all the special birds of Spain within hours of his house, from under £500 per person for 4 nights, incredible value and as I was to find out, a great experience too.
First light revealed a stark landscape, of empty fields in all hues of brown and red. Tom’s house is perched on a small hillock and a few Red Kites and Marsh Harriers drifted by below. Being mid-winter it was cold, the plants in the garden bare, but I could well imagine spring and summer would be teeming with birds in and around, over 80 species having been recorded. Breakfast was a substantial continental spread with cereals, toast, juice tea and coffee (cooked breakfast on the last morning apparently). We loaded up the Landcruiser and headed out for the day, being joined by Patricia and Yolunda plus Pepe, a Spanish birder Tom had been assisting. Sammy the spaniel jumped into the back and we were off, heading west to start with, towards the Sierra Morena. Typical (winter) roadside birds seemed to be Spotless Starlings, Red-legged Partridge, Southern Grey Shrike, Kestrel, Corn Buntings, Crested Larks plus many Common Buzzards and Red Kites. We stopped on the way at Patricia’s estate and went off road below a wooded hillside. We had not gone far when a pair of Spanish Imperial Eagles could be seen ahead of us, both adult birds perched on a small tree. They flew off as we tried to get closer, Tom showing me the eagle’s eyrie in a distant tree. These were one of Pepe’s, whose job involved protecting 3 pairs in the area. Less than 200 pairs remain of this magnificent raptor and their biggest threat seems to be old-fashioned pylons, birds being electrocuted as they land. EEC grant money has been granted to update the cables but progress seems to be rather slower than it should. We drove on, making many roadside stops. This seems to be Tom’s style, very much vehicle based, covering a lot of ground, with many of his sites being private, Tom and guests only. On arrival at each point, Tom would tell you what to expect, and then stand back and let you get on with it! If you need his help, he’s there. In season, tapes are used for certain species. The vehicle has been customised with a long sunroof, big enough for two people to stand and view and/or photograph from. We travelled on into an area of hills with a narrow winding river valley. Roadside stops included two Hoopoes leading to a flock of about 50 or so Azure-winged Magpies, one of Europe’s most beautiful birds when seen in full sunshine. We saw smaller parties of this species throughout the day. Generally this section was fairly quiet, don’t forget, all the summer birds were missing. Wintering Chiffchaffs, Crag Martins, Cirl Bunting, plus both Spanish and Rock Sparrows were noted. A few Griffon Vultures sat high on a bluff, close to a Bonelli’s Eagle eyrie. Afternoon and we started heading north, making a roadside stop for lunch. Tom pulled off the road next to an abandoned farm, overlooking some countryside. I spotted a pair of Golden Eagles high in the sky as we parked up. Lunch consisted of a cold box with sausages, Spanish omelette plus a tomato and tuna salad. Bread and fruit were also available plus wine, and if you asked hard, water or coke. As we started to leave Patricia spotted something, she stuck to her guns and Tom waited a few minutes. She was right, a stunning Black-shouldered Kite reappeared and flew across some fields, landing in a small tree for some nice scope views. Onwards to the amazing Cabaneras National Park, which really does look like somewhere in East Africa. One of the strongholds of Black Vulture, we soon saw a few birds drifting around above us in the clear blue sky. Otherwise, flocks of wintering Cranes were present and quite a few White Storks. We stopped briefly by a flooded river and found a nice collection of winter waders, Little Stints, Black-tailed Godwits, Greenshanks plus an unseasonal Spoonbill. Tom said there were many such ‘unknown’ little places. We started heading back east, driving through flat agricultural land, with small towns along the way. I called a flock of birds in the sky which when we grilled them turned out to be our first Little Bustards, looking rather like distant duck. As we drove on I watched them spiral down into some fields way in the distance. Another, larger flock were spotted soon after, we drove on. Shortly Tom slowed down and lady luck was in again, the field next to the road was full of bustards! I got out of the vehicle and viewed from the side, we soon realised that there were some gorgeous Pin-tailed Sandgrouse in with them too. Not enough time sadly as we were fitting in two days on Tom’s trips in one. On towards our last site, some cliffs where Eagle Owls can be seen. It had just started to rain so brief views of a Black Wheatear and a cracking male Blue Rock Thrush finished the day in the field. In spite of the volume of the ‘walkman’, the owls were staying dry.
We retuned to India Alta after dark with time for a nice hot bath and then dinner. Tom’s house lady has learnt her crafts well and dinner was simply superb. Fresh squid cooked in a light batter with a home-made tomato sauce, an exquisite steak with local vegetables and potatoes with jus and a light, creamy pistachio dessert, cheese and coffee, washed down with more very nice red wine. The adjacent lounge area is very comfortable for doing your notes and after dinner log call.
First light found Tom, his dog and I driving around the local empty fields. Red Kites, Marsh and Hen Harriers were already on the wing, plus a single Peregrine. A strange bubbling noise could suddenly be heard, our quarry. A single bird could be seen flying low away from us, Black-bellied Sandgrouse. After a few minutes another pair and then another single bird. We drove back to the original area we started in and switched the engine off. I heard the sound again and just picked up two birds coming in to land two fields away. This time, nice scope views as they started feeding on the ground, much bigger bodied than Pin-tailed. Back to the house for breakfast, and this time we got bacon and eggs, lovely. We loaded up the vehicle and this time headed north, final destination Madrid. We spent the morning visiting a series of lagoons, most of which Tom has been responsible for turning into national nature reserves. More Spanish specialities were seen including White-headed Duck, Red-crested Pochard and three groups of Flamingos amongst the commoner wintering ducks. Our lunch stop was by another lagoon, 14 Kentish Plovers kept us company whilst a very rare sight appeared, Spanish birders. The three guys came over to us and we were all soon discussing the virtues of digi-scoping as opposed to using SLR cameras. Onwards to the north again and this time an area of empty fields on a plain. We soon went off the track and were into the fields themselves, ‘Great Bustard’ I called as the enormous bird took to the skies and flew off into the distance. We followed in the general direction and then came across a group of 20 or so on the ground. They allowed a much closer approach and we then noticed another group of about 30 birds on our right. A flock of Pin-tailed Sandgrouse then took off and flew past us, their sleek shapes framed against the grey skies. As we drove slowly forwards we came across three Little Bustards on the track which immediately flew too. A first winter Golden Eagle sat in a distant field. Not a bad few minutes birding! Onwards to our last destination, a private marsh below an escarpment. We visited the cliffs first, a ruined castle being another Eagle Owl site. Too early in the day for owls but a nice flock of Choughs tumbling around in the sky. With the sunroof open, I stood up whilst we drove slowly around the wooded lagoons, Tom with characteristic Cuban cigar sticking out of the corner of his mouth telling me when to look. We were searching for another speciality, Purple Gallinule, and in spite of the high water level, I managed to glimpse one at the last stop. The pools contained White-headed Ducks and lots of Black-necked Grebes whilst an impressive number of Marsh Harriers were building up for their nightly roost. And that was it, time to head for Madrid and the airport again.
I came away very impressed, the landscapes, the birds and of course, Tom Gullick himself. These mini tours offer lots of birds (160+ in season) and the chance to spend some time with someone who really knows and loves the area. Highly recommended!
Selected Species (February 2005)
Common Crane
Flamingo
Red-crested Pochard
White-headed Duck
Spanish Imperial Eagle
Black-shouldered Kite
Black Vulture
Purple Gallinule
Great Bustard
Little Bustard
Black-bellied Sandgrouse
Pin-tailed Sandgrouse
Calandra Lark
Thekla Lark
Crag Martin
Blue Rock Thrush
Black Wheatear
Southern Grey Shrike
Spotless Starling
Rock Sparrow
Spanish Sparrow
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